Údolí Zábrdky Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Terenc

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

1. Údolí Zábrdky / Tal der Kleinen Iser (Sabertbach) 21 in Crag
- 1.1. Vykotlaný zub / Wackelzahn 5 in Cliff
- 1.2. Haňulka / Hannchen 3 in Cliff
- 1.3. Ondřej / Andreas 9 in Cliff
- 1.4. Matýsek / Mattheus 1 in Cliff
- 1.5. Beránkův masiv / Beránekmassiv 1 in Cliff
- 1.6. Žabka / Fröschlein 2 in Cliff
2. Index by grade

1. Údolí Zábrdky 21 routes in Crag

1 5 4 3

1 Vykotlaný zub 3 Ondřej 4 Matýsek 5 Beránkův masiv

Summary:

Seasonality

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 50.587045, 14.925153

description

> Průvodce / Local guide: https://www.horydoly.cz/horolezci/horolezecky-pruvodce-udoli-zabrdky.html

access issues

Nature protection

Check current restrictions before you visit crag and be respectful to the nature. Most crags are located in nature protected areas, climbing there is subject to the consent of nature protection authorities and compliance with the conditions set by them.

Where to check:

Český horolezecký svaz - Czech Mountaineering Association: Ochrana přírody - Nature protection (czech)
Agentura ochrany přírody a krajiny ČR - Nature and Landscape Protection Agency of the Czech Republic: vyhledávač - search engine (czech)
Agentura ochrany přírody a krajiny ČR - Nature and Landscape Protection Agency of the Czech Republic: mapa - map (czech)
Skalní oblasti ČR: Moisture conditions map, climbing restrictions map (czech)

or you can directly ask Czech Mountaineering Association on email info@horosvaz.cz

inherited from Czechia

ethic

PODMÍNKY LEZENÍ

Povolení platí pro volné lezení, není povoleno ledolezení, drytooling, bouldering, via ferrata
nesmí být odstraňovány dřeviny a rostlinný kryt skal. Nepoškozovat povrch skály.
Zákaz RP a OS pokud by dřelo lano, prodlužovat jištění na skále aby se nedřel okraj
zákaz magnézia a kovových jisticích pomůcek
zákaz slaňování za stromy a keře, lezení na skalách nasáklých vodou, zasněžených a zaledněných
lezení jen zdola, max. 5 členů družstva, zákaz TOP ROPE

Climbing rules:

The permit is valid for free climbing. Ice climbing, drytooling, bouldering and via ferrata are not allowed.
Trees and plant cover of rocks must not be removed. Do not damage the rock surface.
Prohibition of RP and OS if the rope would rub the rock. Extend the belay on the rock to not to rub the edge.
Prohibition of magnesium and metal protective devices.
Prohibition of abseiling behind trees and shrubs, climbing on rocks soaked with water, snowy and glaciated.
Bottom climbing, max. 5 team members, TOP ROPE ban.

> Zdroj / Source: https://www.horosvaz.cz/skaly-sektor-20/

1.1. Vykotlaný zub 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:: Lat / Long: 50.597793, 14.919933

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Stará cesta / Alter Weg FA: vor, 1945	VI	Trad
2	Rozpor / Spreize FA: Hasso Gantze, H.Müller, G.Blasek, F.Bendel & H.Losert, 1994	III	Trad
3	Lebka / Schädel FA: Jakob Turek & H.Turková, 1992	IV	Trad
4	Spirálová cesta / Spiralweg FA: Hasso Gantze & A.Kittler, 1996	V	Mixed trad 1
5	Přeskok / Sprung FA: Karsten Jilge	3	Trad

1.2. Haňulka 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Stará cesta / Alter Weg FA: & vor, 1945	III - VIIc	Trad
2	Kubulka / Kubachen FA: Jakub Turek, 1992	III	Trad
3	Pod slaněním / Unter der Abseile FA: Radek Mikuláš & A. Mikulášová, 1997	V	Mixed trad 1

1.3. Ondřej 9 routes in Cliff

Summary:: Lat / Long: 50.574351, 14.932976

	Route	Grade	Style
Hide Legend Edit Add item to topo Topo Admin Link to this topo Hide Hide Legend Edit Add item to topo Topo Admin Link to this topo Hide
1	Stará cesta / Alter Weg FA: & vor, 1970	III	Mixed trad 1
2	Centrální varianta / Zentrale Variante FA: Jakob Turek, 1995	IV	Mixed trad 1
3	Jalovcová varianta / Wacholdervariante FA: Hasso Gantze & A.Kittler, 1996	IV	Mixed trad 1
4	Jalovcová pachuť / Wacholdergeschmack FA: Radek Mikuláš & V.Strnad, 1995	VI	Trad
5	Nudlákova cesta / Nudlákweg FA: Martin Dzik, 1998	VIIc	Trad
6	★ Smrt v borovém mlází / Tod in der Kiefernschonung FA: Radek Mikuláš & V.Strnad, 1995	V	Trad
7	Varianta smrti / Variante zum Tod FA: Radek Mikuláš & V.Strnad, 1995	V	Trad
8	Druhá varianta smrti / Zweite Variante zum Tod FA: \"Camel\", 2001	V	Trad
9	Camel-Štěpa FA: \"Camel\", 2001	VI	Trad

1.4. Matýsek 1 route in Cliff

Summary:: Lat / Long: 50.574615, 14.932924

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		Bloody Mary FA: Jakub Turek, 1997	III	Trad

1.5. Beránkův masiv 1 route in Cliff

Summary:: Lat / Long: 50.574648, 14.933132

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
Hide Edit Add item to topo Topo Admin Link to this topo Hide
1		Cvičná spára / Übungsrisschen FA: Jakub Turek, O.Turek & M.Turek, 2000	I	Trad

1.6. Žabka 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		Přeskok / Sprung	{UIAA} 1	Trad
2		Indiánský komín / Indianerkamin FA: Jakub Turek, M.Turek & O.Turek, 2000	II	Trad

2. Index by grade

Grade	Stars	Name	Style	Area
1		Přeskok	Trad	1.6. Žabka
I		Cvičná spára	Trad	1.5. Beránkův masiv
II		Indiánský komín	Trad	1.6. Žabka
III		Rozpor	Trad	1.1. Vykotlaný zub
		Kubulka	Trad	1.2. Haňulka
		Stará cesta	Mixed trad 1	1.3. Ondřej
		Bloody Mary	Trad	1.4. Matýsek
IV		Lebka	Trad	1.1. Vykotlaný zub
		Centrální varianta	Mixed trad 1	1.3. Ondřej
		Jalovcová varianta	Mixed trad 1	1.3. Ondřej
V		Spirálová cesta	Mixed trad 1	1.1. Vykotlaný zub
		Pod slaněním	Mixed trad 1	1.2. Haňulka
		Druhá varianta smrti	Trad	1.3. Ondřej
	★	Smrt v borovém mlází	Trad	1.3. Ondřej
		Varianta smrti	Trad	1.3. Ondřej
VI		Stará cesta	Trad	1.1. Vykotlaný zub
		Camel-Štěpa	Trad	1.3. Ondřej
		Jalovcová pachuť	Trad	1.3. Ondřej
III to VIIc		Stará cesta	Trad	1.2. Haňulka
VIIc		Nudlákova cesta	Trad	1.3. Ondřej
3		Přeskok	Trad	1.1. Vykotlaný zub