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El Potrero Chico

El Potrero Chico is one of the world's premiere big wall sport climbing destinations with over 600 routes including more than a dozen big wall multi-pitch climbs.

Fitness Canyon

Click on the link to see the trail on WikiLoc: https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/fitness-cave-trail-115591379

Fitness Canyon
Blubber Wall

A small dark brown wall about half way up the trail to the "Fitness Cave" on the left.

Fitness Canyon Blubber Wall
5.11d Punch Boogie

The mine is now closed so be respectful when crossing the property. You can no longer drive your car up to the top part of the trail.

5.10a Blubber Boy

The mine is now closed so be respectful when crossing the property. You can no longer drive your car up to the top part of the trail.

5.9 Cellulite

The mine is now closed so be respectful when crossing the property. You can no longer drive your car up to the top part of the trail.

5.9 Fun Fat

The mine is now closed so be respectful when crossing the property. You can no longer drive your car up to the top part of the trail.

Fitness Canyon
Fitness Cave

A white colored wall with lots of overhanging tufa climbing to be had.

Fitness Canyon Fitness Cave
Project Manboy

If you are not a La Posada guest, then you may want to start the hike from the intersection down the road at the junction where the road going up hits the mine entrance.

5.13b Cortando Piel

If you are not a La Posada guest, then you may want to start the hike from the intersection down the road at the junction where the road going up hits the mine entrance.

John Project

If you are not a La Posada guest, then you may want to start the hike from the intersection down the road at the junction where the road going up hits the mine entrance.

5.13a La Bola de Humo

If you are not a La Posada guest, then you may want to start the hike from the intersection down the road at the junction where the road going up hits the mine entrance.

Total Fitness

If you are not a La Posada guest, then you may want to start the hike from the intersection down the road at the junction where the road going up hits the mine entrance.

5.12b Hole in the Universe

If you are not a La Posada guest, then you may want to start the hike from the intersection down the road at the junction where the road going up hits the mine entrance.

5.12b Courage

If you are not a La Posada guest, then you may want to start the hike from the intersection down the road at the junction where the road going up hits the mine entrance.

5.11b Cold Woman Warm Tufa

If you are not a La Posada guest, then you may want to start the hike from the intersection down the road at the junction where the road going up hits the mine entrance.

5.12c Serendipity

If you are not a La Posada guest, then you may want to start the hike from the intersection down the road at the junction where the road going up hits the mine entrance.

5.12c Beer Belly

If you are not a La Posada guest, then you may want to start the hike from the intersection down the road at the junction where the road going up hits the mine entrance.

5.11c Salty Peanuts

If you are not a La Posada guest, then you may want to start the hike from the intersection down the road at the junction where the road going up hits the mine entrance.

5.12b Rubbish

Just outside the cave to the right.

Canon de los Lobos

The first deep canyon on the left (east) side as you enter the Potrero.

Canon de los Lobos
Avenida de la Revolucion

This wall is the bright orange/white rock face on the south facing side of Los Lobos Canyon.

Canon de los Lobos Avenida de la Revolucion
5.11a Viva La Revolucion

Most of the climbing here is in a State Park. As of 2023 there is a one-time 250 peso fee to climb for the entire winter climbing season. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges. Respect the local land people by packing out what you pack in.

Revolucion

Open project.

5.11 Ninos Heroes

Most of the climbing here is in a State Park. As of 2023 there is a one-time 250 peso fee to climb for the entire winter climbing season. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges. Respect the local land people by packing out what you pack in.

5.12 Insurgentes Mexico

Most of the climbing here is in a State Park. As of 2023 there is a one-time 250 peso fee to climb for the entire winter climbing season. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges. Respect the local land people by packing out what you pack in.

5.12d The Lizard and the Jihad

Most of the climbing here is in a State Park. As of 2023 there is a one-time 250 peso fee to climb for the entire winter climbing season. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges. Respect the local land people by packing out what you pack in.

5.10 Man-boy Joins the Revolution

Most of the climbing here is in a State Park. As of 2023 there is a one-time 250 peso fee to climb for the entire winter climbing season. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges. Respect the local land people by packing out what you pack in.

5.10 Emiliano Zapata

Most of the climbing here is in a State Park. As of 2023 there is a one-time 250 peso fee to climb for the entire winter climbing season. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges. Respect the local land people by packing out what you pack in.

5.10d Senor Pascual

Most of the climbing here is in a State Park. As of 2023 there is a one-time 250 peso fee to climb for the entire winter climbing season. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges. Respect the local land people by packing out what you pack in.

5.5 The Kyber Pass

Primarily an access route for the Nomad wall, includes some steel rungs. NOT bolted for a climber at the 5.5 level.

Canon de los Lobos
Nomad Wall

2nd wall on the north side of the canyon. You must climb a route that starts with a bolt ladder and continues with a couple of sparse bolts (very vegetated). Then you traverse through the ledge (also very vegetated) to get to the routes. There is a new anchor to rap down easily/safely without doing the traverse back. Rap down and cross the canyon to use the normal Los Lobos trail

Canon de los Lobos Nomad Wall
5.11c Syberia

Nice climbing with a small tufa roof. Rock quality is not the best but it is very climbable.

5.12c Little Attila

Most of the climbing here is in a State Park. As of 2023 there is a one-time 250 peso fee to climb for the entire winter climbing season. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges. Respect the local land people by packing out what you pack in.

5.12b Silk Road

Most of the climbing here is in a State Park. As of 2023 there is a one-time 250 peso fee to climb for the entire winter climbing season. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges. Respect the local land people by packing out what you pack in.

5.12b Genghis Khan

2nd pitch is an open project. First pitch goes at 5.12b.

Xanadu

Most of the climbing here is in a State Park. As of 2023 there is a one-time 250 peso fee to climb for the entire winter climbing season. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges. Respect the local land people by packing out what you pack in.

Kublai Khan

Most of the climbing here is in a State Park. As of 2023 there is a one-time 250 peso fee to climb for the entire winter climbing season. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges. Respect the local land people by packing out what you pack in.

Canon de los Lobos
Culo del Lobo

A wall at the very top and back of the Los Lobos canyon.

Canon de los Lobos Culo del Lobo
5.12c Flesh Bomb

Most of the climbing here is in a State Park. As of 2023 there is a one-time 250 peso fee to climb for the entire winter climbing season. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges. Respect the local land people by packing out what you pack in.

5.12b Team Hiltiless

Most of the climbing here is in a State Park. As of 2023 there is a one-time 250 peso fee to climb for the entire winter climbing season. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges. Respect the local land people by packing out what you pack in.

Canon de los Lobos
Los Lobos Main Wall

This wall is the right side of the Los Lobos canyon.

Routes are described Right to Left, that is from lowest (closest to the road) to farthest up canyon.

Canon de los Lobos Los Lobos Main Wall
5.9 Sheep's Clothing

Most of the climbing here is in a State Park. As of 2023 there is a one-time 250 peso fee to climb for the entire winter climbing season. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges. Respect the local land people by packing out what you pack in.

5.7 El Cachorro

Most of the climbing here is in a State Park. As of 2023 there is a one-time 250 peso fee to climb for the entire winter climbing season. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges. Respect the local land people by packing out what you pack in.

5.10a Wolf of the Deserts

Most of the climbing here is in a State Park. As of 2023 there is a one-time 250 peso fee to climb for the entire winter climbing season. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges. Respect the local land people by packing out what you pack in.

5.10b Los huevos de loro

About 2 meters left of Wolf of the Desert

5.10c Never Cry Wolf

50' up the trail from "El Cacharro".

Pitch 2, trend right from the anchor.

5.10a The Golden Werewolf

Alternate 2nd pitch for "Never Cry Wolf", climb straight up from the anchor on "gold" hangers.

5.7 The Anvil

Start 5' right of "The Blacksmith".

5.9 The Blacksmith

1st pitch has 7 bolts, 2nd pitch has 5 bolts.

5.10a Howlin' Wolf

Ruta algo sostenida con movimientos exigentes dignos de un 10a. Grieta que va hacia la izquierda.

Crack that goes left.

5.9 Big Bad Wolf

Just right of "Little Red Riding Hood", both start off a small ledge. Ok climbing, but generously bolted for EPC.

5.8 Little Red Riding Hood

Just left of "Big Bad Wolf", both start off a small ledge. Generously bolted for EPC.

5.8 Riddles of the Wise

Most of the climbing here is in a State Park. As of 2023 there is a one-time 250 peso fee to climb for the entire winter climbing season. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges. Respect the local land people by packing out what you pack in.

5.9 Zombie Wolf

Most of the climbing here is in a State Park. As of 2023 there is a one-time 250 peso fee to climb for the entire winter climbing season. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges. Respect the local land people by packing out what you pack in.

5.9 Senor Natural

35m of fun and jug-hauling up the long, vertical wall.

There may be more climbing above the anchors that are at 35m that is harder than 5.7

5.11c Lobos Trabajando

Most of the climbing here is in a State Park. As of 2023 there is a one-time 250 peso fee to climb for the entire winter climbing season. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges. Respect the local land people by packing out what you pack in.

5.7 Palm Sex, Lies and Lots of Tape

Most of the climbing here is in a State Park. As of 2023 there is a one-time 250 peso fee to climb for the entire winter climbing season. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges. Respect the local land people by packing out what you pack in.

5.9 Rosey Palm and the Five Sisters

Most of the climbing here is in a State Park. As of 2023 there is a one-time 250 peso fee to climb for the entire winter climbing season. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges. Respect the local land people by packing out what you pack in.

5.10c Palm Snake

The main route goes straight up at the first anchor for the second pitch or you can take the easier variation on the 2nd pitch of Palm Snake which has you going left at the first anchor and is called Palms Away and goes at 5.10a.

5.8 Control Machete

Most of the climbing here is in a State Park. As of 2023 there is a one-time 250 peso fee to climb for the entire winter climbing season. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges. Respect the local land people by packing out what you pack in.

5.10a Will the Wolf Survive?

Starts near the upper end of the Los Lobos wall, just a bit right (downhill) of the Estrellita rappel route. Has a name plate, and a clear left-facing corner on pitch 2.

  1. 5.8 30m. Climb up a broken pillar leaning against the wall to a good ledge.

  2. 5.9 25m. Climb up over a small roof then follow a left-facing corner with some tough layback moves.

  3. 5.9 40m. Climb consistently good movement past an intermediate rappel anchor to a belay in an alcove.

  4. 5.10a 15m. Step down and right from the alcove onto the steep face, then up to the top of the ridge.

Descent: with a 70m rope, rappel from the top anchors to the intermediate anchors on P3 (35m rappel), then to the ledge at the top of P1. (With a 60m rope (ugh), it might take 5 rappels.) With double 60m's rappel to the top of pitch two, then to the ground.

5.8 Beans by Dre

Most of the climbing here is in a State Park. As of 2023 there is a one-time 250 peso fee to climb for the entire winter climbing season. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges. Respect the local land people by packing out what you pack in.

5.11b Fish and Clips

Most of the climbing here is in a State Park. As of 2023 there is a one-time 250 peso fee to climb for the entire winter climbing season. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges. Respect the local land people by packing out what you pack in.

5.9 Whistle and Fish

Most of the climbing here is in a State Park. As of 2023 there is a one-time 250 peso fee to climb for the entire winter climbing season. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges. Respect the local land people by packing out what you pack in.

El Fin De Semana

The 2nd canyon on the left side as you enter the Potrero, it is much shallower than the Los Lobos canyon on its left or Estrellas canyon to its right.

El Fin De Semana
Fin de Semana Wall

This is the clean slightly-overhanging golden brown wall across from the entrance to the swimming pools. It boasts some of the harder technical routes of Potrero Chico and some easier ones as well as multi pitch routes. It is in the sun from late morning till about 15:00 in December / January.

El Fin De Semana Fin de Semana Wall
5.10c Pepe y Lupe

Start by going up lobos canyon and go right to the fin de semana west wall ridge. Pitch 1: 7 bolts, 30m Pitch 2: 6 bolts, 25m Pitch 3: 4 bolts, 12m You can climb down to the anchor at lobos wall and rapel lobos wall.

5.6 X Razorblade Ridge

Climb "Pepe y Lupe" then continue up the ridge for 7 more pitches -- lots of easy 4th & 5th class with the occasional head wall.

5.8 Shebashite

It’s the left most route (first route) on the south facing wall. Do not confuse this route with “Pepe y Lupe” which is on the west facing ramp on the Fin De Semana Wall.

5.9 Same Same But Different

Starts at the blue graffiti and trends right up in the corner.

5.11a Boltergeist

Anchor is close to the anchor of Same Same but different

5.11 Sketch Pad

Access this route by climbing the first pitch of “Pepe y Lupe”/“Same Same but Different”/“Boltergeist”. Climb the wide and obvious ramp/slab all the way to the anchors of “Fin de Semana”/“Zuma Dog”. Just 1 bolt on the ramp. Not a ver popular route.

5.12d Fin de Semana

Climbs first few bolts of "Scavenger" then continues up arete.

5.10d Scavenger

Starts with a rusty hanger and trends right on the ledge after the 5th bolt. At the 7th bolt the route crosses Zuma Dog. Keep climbing the ramp after the first anchor for an excellent finish on superb rock and fun moves (6 more Bolts). The second pitch/extension is a little runout. Use an 80m rope for the second pitch.

5.12a Zuma Dog

Starts 15ft right of the old bolts on "Scavenger". Shares last 3 bolts with “Fin de Semana”.

At 40m, be very careful about lowering.

5.12b Prima Donna

Starts on the grey slab and trends up right to an anchor on the grey rock.

5.12d Maldito Lunes

Starts just left of the grey tufa, next to Camino del Diablo and Blade Runner. Go up and right after the 5th bolt, pull the small roof up on the grey rock.

5.13c Camino del Diablo

Perma draws most of the route. Climb up to the ledge next to the small grey tufa and follow the crack trending right. There are different variants at the end of this route. 2 bolt anchor. Continue to the second anchor and you will be climbing “Amigo del Diablo”.

5.10d Blade Runner

Starts on Camino del Diablo. There are 2 engraved aluminum signs fixed on the wall. Once on the ledge you trend right to the first anchor (which is where it crosses Hombre de Rifle) and continues on on the ridge.

P1: 5 bolts P2: 6 bolts P3: 10 bolts P4: 4 bolts

Rap down to top of pitch 2 and from there down to the ground.

5.13d Amigo del Diablo

Variation: start on "Camino del Diablo" and finish on "Hombre de Rifle".

5.13a Hombre de Rifle

Perma draws entire route, crosses Blade Runner at its first anchor (bolt 5).

5.13b Cowboy Connection

Starts on Hombre de Rifle and ends on Sabbath.

5.13a Sabbath

Start on Hombre de Rifle, once on the ledge go right and follow the bolt line above Blade Runner. Anchor is high up on grey rock.

5.11c Never on Friday

Start on Hombre de Rifle, then follow the obviuos arrete after bolt 4 of Hombre de Rifle to the right. It is the bolt line on the face, the one on the ledge is for Blade Runner.

5.12d Cosmic Intelligence

Start together with Mexican Guarantee but branches out right after the second bolt.

5.13b Mexican Guarantee

Same start as Cosmic Intelligence. First anchor same as Never on Friday or alternatively Blade Runner. The routes can be linked with an 80m rope. P1: 10 bolts, 24m P2: 9 bolts, 16m

5.12- A muerte en Mexico

Easy climbing on bad rock at the bottom. 80m rope recommended. Its possible with a 70m rope putting a knot and having the belay scramble a little bit.

El Fin De Semana
Mojo Slab

The dark slab with light streaks to the right of Fin de Semana wall.

El Fin De Semana Mojo Slab
5.10a Otis (Campbell)

Most of the climbing here is in a State Park. As of 2023 there is a one-time 250 peso fee to climb for the entire winter climbing season. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges. Respect the local land people by packing out what you pack in.

5.10 Jungle Boogie

Start up "Otis (Campbell)", then continue up and right through the garden, over the ridge then follow the dihedral to the same summit as "Estrellita".

5.8 Mojo (Nixo)

Starts next to the step up next to the bush. huge run-out from 5th to sixth. If you don't feel up to it you can bail using the anchor on the route to the right.

5.9 Little Ewarwoowar

Most of the climbing here is in a State Park. As of 2023 there is a one-time 250 peso fee to climb for the entire winter climbing season. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges. Respect the local land people by packing out what you pack in.

5.9 UFOs, Big Rigs and Burritos

Pitch one has 7 bolts and Pitch 2 has 4 bolts. The route ends just below the Aztec Lounge (pitch 5 of "Estrellita") making this a possible alternate start for that climb.

5.9 Monte Blanca

Climb the ridge right of "UFOs Big Rigs and Burritos" into the big dihedral and then up to the same peak as "Estrellita".

Probably shares upper pitches with "Jungle Boogie".

Las Estrellas

The Estrellas canyon is the 2nd deep canyon on the left (east) side of the Potrero as you enter.

Las Estrellas
Estrellas North Wall

The lower part of the left (north) wall of the Estrellas canyon.

Las Estrellas Estrellas North Wall
5.11b Los Tres Chiflados

One pitch climb with three variations (left to right): Larry (5.11b), Moe (5.11a) and Curly (5.10b).

5.10c La Pantera Rosa

Start up the slanting chimney then face above to the groove/crack. Same anchor as Jesus Amarillo.

There is some variance in the grade of the climb -- Ed says 10d, Dane says 10b, and Frank says 10c.

5.10a Jesus Amarillo

Climbs the edge to the right of La Pantera Rosa, then up some face to an orange/white patch, then trends left to the anchor shared with La Pantera Rosa.

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