Routes in Lake Taupō for selected grade

Go up the obvious wide crack right of Sugar Daddy. Do not clip the bolts if you want to do it like the first ascensionist.

Start on the left to reach the crack, or the variant start from the right at the same grade. Gear is a bit fiddly, not a good first trad lead at the grade. Take RPs and tricams.

Just right of Don't Be A Prick, Clean Your Tick. Scramble up the rock to sling the tree and continue up the thin crack to the pine tree belay.

The featured slab/arete with a fun layback finish. A great warm up.

The obvious crack on the left side of the roof. Dedicated to Robin Williams.

The crack immediately left of The Gecko Groove. 17 if climbed using only the thin crack and face to start.

The right hand crack system 3 meters left of the arete. Save your big gear for the top section. An excellent climb.

Climb the chimney filled with boulders like the old boys did in their days. Good protection on cams or bring long slings for the chock stones. Crux at the top as move out of the chimney to the new anchor to the right.

Climb the face just right of Pain Au Chocolat.

Goes directly up the wall, parallel to Miromiro, then trends slightly left to a separate anchor on the shorter section of the wall. Crux bulge has two options: direct (16) or out left to the original boulder problem (17).

Go up the face with interesting moves (can be bypassed by using the tree), good luck and have fun.

Access via track on right before you get to Dream Wall (when walking from camp). Friendly climb with views at top. One crux getting over the lip.

Mixed route right of Bananas in Pajamas. 3 bolts then a nice finger crack. A half rack with medium sized cams and / or nuts will suffice.

A fully bolted finish out right is in the works, coming soon.

Layback block start leads to a crux and slab finish.

A classic for the grade. Head up the face and arete through super jugs to the anchor.

The right hand edge of the featured face. Still very dirty for a sport route.

Up the arete from the toe of the pinnacle to meet Ducky Fuzz at the top.

Starts left of the tree by the trail, trending left. Good access to the hard routes above.

The easier way up, juggy climbing all the way and bypass the overhang crux of Caveman. Go up and left on the hand line from the start of 'Captain Caveman' to a small ledge. P1) goes up the right-most line of bolts through the gully to the anchor in the bottom of the cave. P2) goes right from the anchor then left up the obvious easy route out of the cave to a ledge on the face, stop at the chains or continue into the shade and use the Caveman anchor. P3) Follow the corner crack system straight up as for 'Captain Caveman', then at the overhang where Caveman goes left, instead go right following the bolts for an easier 16 finish on similar features, then traverse left to the shared anchor.

A nice fun rope with multiple anchors set up to practice multipitches or top-rope laps.

Start around the arete from Elephant Hunting on cams in pockets, then follow 2 bolts leftward through balancy moves on the slab, more gear, then a few more bolts to finish at the anchor behind the manuka tree. You can continue up the left corner (13) to a tree belay in the bush to gain the middle tier.

The obvious corner crack with the huge triangular detached flake and tree up top. Tree anchor, descent via the hand line down the steep gully.

Better than it looks. The broken corner and crack system - take a full range of gear. Traverse left to reach the Flight of the Pachyderm rap anchor (recommended), or scramble off up the loose gully.

A nice long corner, exit left at the top to the bolts for Counter Intuitive

Outstanding, best as one long pitch.

Pitch 1: (16) From the right of the belay ledge, climb up and move right to the arete after the 3rd bolt, continue up, stepping right to reach the ledge and DBC belay. (8b)

Pitch 2: (16) Move back left to the arete and continue up the balancy slab to the DBC belay. (7b)

Protection is only in the first and last 5m, so has a 15m of ground fall potential. Fortunately, the climbing in between areas of protection is easy.

Classy and absorbing, and recently cleaned. The thin seam and slab 2m left of The Hecklers. Small gear, has a reputation for being a bit run out at the balancy crux but there is enough gear if you take the time to look for it. Abseil to halfway anchors on the arete.

A dirty climb, but you'll find good consistent climbing up the fun face. Route near the end of the fixed rope.

Good gear. Climb up the corner to the big vegetated ledge which gives you access to the wall of sirens.

Apparently this is a "shitty" hand jam crack with a layback section.

Start on big pocket hold at head height and slightly smaller pocket lower left, make way up smaller juggy holds (large wide jug on the right is out), reach to small ledge on grassy lip, move over right and match hands to finish. Easy fun climbing, possibly alternate/eliminate on same face as Double Dyno.

Climb the face left of Les Femmes et Les Grimpeurs A'bord

A tough start laybacking the arete (or easy grovelling in the corner), leads to beautiful climbing up most of the wall with a tricky exit. Shares the same anchor as Hidden Treasure. A nice long route.

Climb the corner crack system at about grade 14 to the large intermediate ledge. Then continue out left round the arching roof crack. A secret hold provides salvation. DRB belay. (Pro, CD, Hex, Wires)

this pretends to be a climb

climb crack to ledge right of sleepwalker. Join onto sleepwalker and climb to anchor.

Looks like a lightning bolt cracked the cliff, starts small and gets wider towards the top. Was the classic Wellington route to womble up, but surprisingly spicy for the grade. Tree near the top or anchors of "Orchestrated Litany of Lunges", you can build an anchor at the bottom with small cams.

This line is permanently closed to all climbers

The right facing fingers crack in the corner.

The next four climbs can be accessed from the top of Helen.

The very average offwidth.