Routes as trad in Aoraki / Mount Cook

Climb the left-facing crack with good protection. When that runs out, take a deep breath, traverse left a little and up the bolted slab above.

1 (30m): Gain the arete from the highest wee shelf on the left, clip the bolt, then continue up the arete. Note there is a hard to see bolt above the lip before you reach the bolted anchor, to the left of the grassy crack. 2 (15m): A short pitch up through the featured overlap, build an anchor. 3 (40m): Trend back left toward the arete and continue to a bolted belay at the big terrace.

1: Gain the El Nino arete then immediately traverse down and right to a bolted belay stance above the overhang. 2: Climb the bolted slab to below the notch then continue on gear and build an anchor around the base of the crack. 3: Climb the crack, narrowing from fists to thin hands before it disappears. Continue to a bolted belay at the big terrace.

Trad +bolts

Location unknown trad + bolts

Climb crown of gorse first pitch then turn left to higher belay. Continue through roof on bolts.

Pitch 1 is grade 15 15m pitch 2 is grade 18 30mTake 2 ropes

Starts from the ledge at the top of Crucifix. Follow the vegetated crack trending slightly left then onto face left of arete on gear.

Start at the top of the scree right of Crucifix, 5m left of Tremor. Needs some large cams for the offwidth section

A technical climb that leads up a slab and onto an overhang at the finish. Start on a ledge at the top of the scree.

Pitch 1 25m grade 15 pitch 2 25m grade 19 pitch 3 14m grade 14 pitch 4 25m grade 20

An alternative start to Red Arete, starting 3m right of that route and climbing to the belay station at the top of the first pitch. Anton Wopereis

mix trad and bolted

The left most route at this wall. Start up the crack with gear, climb past two bolts with no hangers where the crack peters out, then climb up the crack and arête past two more bolts to an independent double bolt with chains anchor.

trad+bolts

Trad+bolts run out at top!

This route on the central buttress on the south face has gained a reputation as one of New Zealand’s classic alpine rock routes. It begins at a higher level than the surrounding rock. Steep, awkward strata, overhangs and a prominent blackness make this the prominent line. Forcing past overhangs gives pause for thought on the first buttress. The second half of the route follows a prow up a series of towers. Pinnacles on the upper section were avoided on the right side during the first ascent but have been climbed direct (Bill McLeod, March 1996). Finish on the fangs. Truly a feast. Cruxes too numerous to mention.

Bivvies are abundant directly below the route. Descent is climbers left of the top out. Scramble down 100 or so metres and look for a massive block with rap tatt. One 30m rap will get you to the scree slopes below.

The fastest way to access W Face of Huxley is to 4WDthe Ahuriri to Hagens Hut and then walk the 3 hours (10km, 350m vert to a good campsite at 1200m). From there the base of the route is approx. 2 hours away. An approx. 5 hr descent of the East Ramp/ V-Notch Pass awaits those who successfully top out this route. The face can also be accesssed from the South Huxley River or South Temple River (times vary greatly but they are long valley approaches on foot).

Accessed on left side of pinnacle, between pinnacle and glacier. Climb rib above glacier, to left of 42 St. Climb left angling crack to crest of rib, then follow crest. 4 pitches to easier ground. Continue up rib to left of hanging snow patch. Traverse left to gain crest of pinnacle, before swinging onto slab on left side of pinnacle. Finish up amazing splitter cracks to summit ridge.

A Technical corner to a roof (protected by bolt)