Routes as trad in Murihiku / Southland

Large right to left crack system on the left side of the Diamond Face.

Variation of Rough Diamond, joining at the 3rd pitch. Start up the Rough Diamond crack for 20m, but continue climbing up to a belay. Follow some grooves then trend right to rejoin the original route.

On the lower right side of the Diamond Face, climb up the steep overlaps below the start of the Bowen Allan Corner.

Direct start to the Garden Trowel Route on the right of the original corners.

Variation of the Garden Trowel Route. Pitch one is the same, then climb through the steep wall and overlap directly above.

On the right of the Diamond Face, follow grassy slabs trending up and right to the start of the Bowen Allan Corner.

P1 - up corner to blue sling at 50m height.

P2 - step left off the belay and wander up to slung boulder for the next belay. (grade 14 if you use the ledges)

P3 - up steepening corner, step left onto ledge and sling belay.

P4 - a full rope length left across easy ledges, a couple of harder moves get you up under the base of BA corner/ just to the right of the slabs leading up to it.

P5 - step L off belay and follow steepening left facing corner. Belay on ledge after about 45m.

P6 - The glory pitch. Can belay above or below roof.

P7 - Three possible finishes detailed below.

Alternative finish to the Bowen Allan Corner: take the crack on the left.

Alternative finish to the Bowen Allan Corner: take the wall between the cracks.

Alternative finish to the Bowen Allan Corner: crack to the right of Between the Lines.

An instant classic. 10 high quality pitches at sustained 20/21 with varied climbing right to the tip of Moirs mate. Well bolted when needed, excellent protection on trad pitches, all bolted belays and rappel descent. A brilliantly conceived route. PD initialled in rock 55m right of BAC and 30m left of Lucky Strike.

The trad version of lucky strike. Starts 5m right of Pipe Dream at a bolt. Bolted belays.

A quality route, well equipped with bolts, climbing the buttress on the right-hand side of the Mate. Seven pitches (280m), plus an optional further pitch to the ridge and a scramble to the summit. Take 2 x 50m ropes, a small rack of medium wires, cams to hand size and a dozen quickdraws. Abseil descent is best.

See http://climbnz.org.nz/sites/climbnz.org.nz/files/route/Lucky_Strike_1[1].jpg for topo

Starting at the broken ledges, move left before straightening and climbing up the left side of the headwall. Continue right past the roofs to finish up the split headwall crack.

Start as for the Central Line, then turn right under the overhangs at the top slabs. Climb up a steep finger crack and up a groove to the top.

Starting from the broken ledges, climb right to a corner system then up a slab. Rap 20m down and left before climbing a gulley to the obvious overhang, then right and up to the summit.

Variation of Fantini Coradine.

Direct finish variation of Fantini Coradine.

Left side of the cliff.

Start on the slabs left of the arches.

Start up the easy slab below the overhanging arches.

Start off the broken slabs on the right side of the cliff. First 5 pitches originally aid climbed, last 2 pitches freed. The route trends up and left to a small roof near the top of the face.

Start on the broken slabs on the right side of the cliff. Follow a corner to some left-leaning ramps, then over the right side of the cliff.

Start on the broken slabs on the right side of the cliff. Follow ledge systems up and left, then through a series of cracks to a lone right-facing corner on the edge of the cliff.

Start at the right side of the cliff, right of the arch and after starting to scramble up to the Moir ledges. A bolt and maillon marks the start of the route, about 15m above the ledges and slightly left. Bolted belays.

Bring a light rack. Bolted belays, and the occasional bolt.

Arguably the greatest rock climb in New Zealand.

Two steep pitches up a continuous crack to join the North Buttress route where it briefly traverses round towards the NE Face.

Access route from ground level to ledges under the Vass-Judge. Can scramble up to Tootsies from the top of the first pitch

Long slab and face climb right of the water streak on the Phil's Biv slabs.

Slab and face that straightens out and extends the original Tootsies

Good slabby face climbing marred by poor bolts

Daisy is a multi-pitch climb on the north-east face of Barrier Knob. Nice moves in every pitch on great quality rock.

1st Pitch 12 2nd Pitch 19 3rd Pitch 18 4th Pitch 15 5th Pitch 20

Traverse left along a prominent ledge to the base of the buttress. Pitch 1: Easy groove right of buttress. Pitch 2: Steep wall and cracks, round right to groove and then right onto rib and up to a sloping belay (crux pitch). Pitch 3: On up rib, round right over blocks, up groove and out right up exposed 2-metre wall. Pitch 4 (7 m): Scramble up to ridge.

Climb the ridge on the left of the South Face of the West Twin.

check out https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/wick-mountains/charismatic-wall-pt-1655/uprising

Shares the first 7 pitches of Uprising. From the base of pitch 8 on Uprising follow the wall right till you reach a hand line up. Wild Dykes starts/continues at the top of the handline. 17 pitches of immaculate granite climbing.

Bivys for 3 at the base of pitch 8 (after the approach pitches. Another bivy for 3 on ledges at the end of pitch 13. Water jugs are in place at both bivvies.

Can be climbed/rapped on a single 60m rope. Single rack from 0.2 to 3 and doubles in fingers + nuts + 12 draws (or more if you want to link - beware rope drag). For more info check out https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/wick-mountains/charismatic-wall-pt-1655/wild-dykes

Direct finish of Ta Moko

Amazing adventure up the leading edge of Copper Point. The last 2 pitches are shared with Siren's Call

Great climbing in a fabulous position. Has had rave reviews by repeat ascensionists, according to the first ascensionists. Many bolts + some trad. Bring a small supplementary single rack. 2 x 50m ropes required. If accessed from below, from the rock apron scramble to the solar panel, down and across to the exposed arete. Scramble up arete and find track through scrub. The hotel-sized rock is passed via fixed ropes on the right. The track continues to bolts marking the start of the route. If accessed from above, the top abseil rings can be found at the highest point of the wall.

Begins halfway up first pitch of Leftism at the belay on the ledge. Climb left to the first of 6 bolts through a small roof.

Climb to the third bolt of Tufa Dub, then move right along the break.

Pitch1:15m, Pitch2:16m, Pitch3:40m, Pitch4:30, Pitch5:20m, Pitch6:25m, Pitch7:50m, Pitch8:35m, Pitch9:35m, Pitch10:20m, Pitch11:50m, Pitch12:35m, Pitch13:32m, Pitch14:40m, Pitch15:37m, Pitch16:27m, Pitch17:30m, Pitch18:22m, Pitch19:30m, Pitch20:40m, Pitch21:37m, Pitch22:20m

Slab, some great and positive holds