Nodes in Vågakallen

Some information described in the Ed Webdster guidebook. Route takes 5/6 hours by a competent party. There is a reason it´s not a classic (plenty of loose rock).

A brief description & some images from Bergtagen guides here.

GPX track with the approach here

Some more images

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It´s a long approach/descent with excellent beta available on peakbook. There´s a spring just before the upper pillar approach so no need to carry water in.

Tackles the full height of the slabs and upper pillar. A big step up from Freya in terms of exposure and difficulty. Reportedly committing; You need to be in solid 8a shape for pitch 12 .

Freed in 2017.

Tackling the full height of Storpillaren, from the stiff lower slabs into natural corner systems. The line has now been freed a few times & is the obvious next step up from Storpillaren. Some bolted belays make retreats possible.

Recent ascent description

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The King Line of the great pillar. With big exposure & stacked pitches, it´s a worthy destination route for those strong enough.

To descend, continue up the final pitches (9.5-16) of Storpillaren

Freed in 2015. There´s a Topo & description on Planet Mountain

Some aesthetic looking pitches that are rumoured to climb not quite as nice as the other lines here.

1. Up the easy groove to a belay next to the large block

2. Traverse left then follow the fingers and hands crack system up to the base of the LF roof/corner.

3. This pitch is nails & should be broken into 2 rope lengths to preserve your small gear & prevent rope drag. Delicately traverse left as far as possible before a tricky mantle. Continue up the steep and hard finger crack to a good ledge. An amazing pitch.

4. Climb the remaining thin finger crack. A short section of easier but loose stuff takes you up to a giant ledge.

5. The steep & clean diagonal crack. Belay on a tiny ledge after the chimney. Another great pitch.

6. Short OW off the belay then take the LF corner up to a sloping ledge with a fixed piton belay. Yet another great pitch.

7. Climb the chimney, exiting out via the thin ramp to your right & up to a small stance. The great pitch vibes continue.

8. Up the corner, traversing out left under the roof then easy climbing up the groove to a big ledge on the left with some loose rock. Sustained!

9. Take the left groove up for 20m then trend left again & up the next groove to a small ledge with a single piton.

10. Easy climbing left up the face then scrambling right up the groove to small stance

11. Continue up the groove then it´s more scrambling right to another large ledge.

12. Step down right, then up the next easy groove to an even bigger ledge

13. Steep face climbing on jugs up the left side of the wall.

14. Continue scrambling along the right side of the ridge up to the ridge crest

15. Down the ridge to a fixed 15m abseil. Continue across the crest to another fixed anchor.

16. The original line tackles the steep slab via the right side of the arête. The crux is do not fall climbing. It´s possible to avoid this pitch by abseiling down 20m right then up 2 pitches of gross but safer N5 scrambling (the grassy walk of shame). There´s also a third option; A chimney up from the same abseil point which takes you to the standard P16 belay (bit loose & mossy but possible to get some pro, N5+).

17. Take left side of the pinnacle. A final section of loose & grassy stuff leads to the summit.

> A short with Katie Lambert & Caroline George on Storpillaren

Some images here-

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The clean looking left pillar on the NE face of Vågakallen.

These routes are accessed via the Paradiset path & the trail along the West shore of Kallevatnet (same one used for access ot Storpillaren). Scramble up to the base (some bushwhacking required).

Descent by rapping (30,55,60,60 & 60m)

A top50 line in the guidebook. Reports from parties repeating indicate it´s a bit of an adventure route.

Many of the lines are described by Mårten Blixt in the Lofoten Alpin article of Tidsskrift for Norsk Alpinklatring 2014.

Scroll through Lofoten Tindeklubb`s facebook group for some low resloution images

An often eyed, rarely climbed & highly prized line with difficulty varying wildly depending on conditions. Can be serious. The approach & descent exposes you to avalanche terrain.

For a description and background on the routes history, see 2013 edition Tidsskrift for Norsk Alpinklatring, low resolution image here.

There´s also a trip report

A route description and topo is available on the AAC here

A description of this climb can be found on the AAC

Some description and images