Located about 15m downstream from 'The Hourglass' and just above a second large deep wading pool. The climb is on an obvious ridge, the first below 'The Hourglass'.
- [8] 12m
- Scramble 3m to grassy ledge, on left side of which is a right-angled "book". Ascend book and face 9m to very large cave with a vertical rock column on the mouth. Block belay.
- [13] 12m
- Ascend blocks on left side of cave mouth for 6m. Continue 4,5m up face, then traverse right 3m and into a chink in the corner of the ridge. Climb through chink to good ledge. Tree belay.
- [10] 25m
- Ascend open book 6m to ledge and continue up front of ridge to small pinnacle with large chock stone. Block belay.
- [10] 22m
- Climb pinnacle and over chockstone. Continue up ridge to base of smooth chimney. This may be avoided by going up the ridge to the right (10). Alternatively climb the chimney (15).
