Harry Potter Guide

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Marc dM Claudio De Luca Francois Pieterse Cormac Tooze Sean Michelle Hutchinson Douglas Catherine Honegger Wessel du Plooy owen

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1. Harry Potter 32 in Cliff
2. Index by grade

1. Harry Potter 32 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Seasonality

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -25.720514, 27.847332

description

This crag is right of The Man Cave.

access issues

Due to past safety issues, as of mid 2011 the following access arrangements were negotiated by the MCSA with Mount Amanzi, which has legal control of the land:

Only recognised climbing club members (MCSA, SANCF, or University) who have an up-to-date membership card, with a photo, are allowed to climb at the Chosspile.

Each card holder is allowed to bring two guests as current status of October 2018.

Members and guests first report to Mount Amanzi’s reception (same side of the road, but across the river from the Chosspile) where they sign an indemnity and pay R30 per card-holder and 50R per guest. Update 2019: You will receive as well the (weekly renewed) gate lock combination. The car guards will be directly at the park site instead of at the gate previously.

Although guards are paid R5 per guest, please feel free to supplement their earnings.

Note: Yearly passes are available.

For more information on routes, access and permits please see the following websites:

Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) http://www.mcsa.org.za/ Look at “Who we are” for the different sections of the MCSA

Mountain Club of South Africa – Johannesburg Section website https://mcsajohannesburg.org/ Click on “Access and Properties” for more information Click on “Contact” to get in touch with the MCSA for more information.

ClimbZA website http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/South_African_Climbing_Wiki Welcome to the largest & most comprehensive online database of Southern African climbing information.

http://www.climbing.co.za/forum/ A forum site to find climbing partners or to find out more about different climbing areas and climbs.

inherited from Chosspile

approach

From the park area follow the well marked path on the left, cross the bridge, and up, up, up ! It is the first area you will reach.

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
1	★ Drako Pitch 1 is 21/6b+. Pitch 2 is 21/6b+. Use 2 ropes to abseil all the way or go from chains to chains. Currently no chains at stance to abseil from, but large tree stem out right works well to.	24	Sport 2, 14
2	★★★ Bolts From The Blue FA: Stephen Mallory, Wessel du Plooy & Cara Fleisher	15	Trad 40m
3	★ Harry Pothead Interesting stemming low down, and a powerful hand jam to clip for the crux. FA: Rory lowther	19	Sport 6
4	★★ Hogwart's Warted Hog FA: Rory Lowther	23	Sport 9
5	★★★ Chamber Of Secrets Set: Rory Lowther FA: Steve Dunnet	25	Sport 8
6	★★ Dobby Set: Debbie Mulder FA: Rory Lowther	23	Sport 8
7	★ Dodgy Glue There are some rather aggressive starlings nesting nearby...be prepared to be flown at.	19	Sport 8
8	Man Thang ..	24	Sport 6
9	★★ The Philosophers Stoned A good climb up the steep wall. New anchors put up in May 2015 (MCSA). FA: Rory Lowther, 2003	21	Sport 8
10	★★ Hermione Puts Out A gem! Strange that it was not bolted sooner. Sustained face climbing up the right facing wall. Hardware by MCSA-Boven Fund. FA: Matt Hoffman, Jun 2015	19	Sport 10
11	★ Harry Goes Trading Natural Gear	13	Trad
12	★★ Moaning Murtle FA: Roland Magg	23	Sport 7
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	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
13	★★ Salazar Start 5m right of Moaning Myrtle. The route takes an almost straight line to the bolts, with a crux at 1/3 height and a tricky move onto the top of an overhang near the top. Good climbing. Set: David Tapp FA: Daniel Hannah, 2010	19	Sport 9
14	★★ Spongify FA: Rory Lowther, 2003	22	Sport 8
15	★ Voltamor Power climb up a black open book. Mantle shelf out of a roof, to the chains. Nice climb! FA: Rory Lowther, 2003	19	Sport 8
16	★ Diffindo FA: Rory Lowther	20	Sport 7
17	★★ The Bloody Baron Start in corner, just left of chimney. Move left onto slab then right onto a short right facing corner. Climb to ledge then move left onto left facing corner. Steep moves at the top. Bad rope drag - take some long draws.	15	Sport 12
18	★ Quidditch This route takes the hanging slab right of the previous route. Start as for THE BLOODY BARON but branch right to the base of the hanging slab and up this to the top. There is a bit of a run out from the top bolt to the chains, but it is safe. New anchors May2015 (MCSA). FA: Neil Margetts, 2008	23	Sport 7
19	★★ The Balls of Hagrid Climb THE BLOODY BARON for five bolts, then break right across a slab until under a black corner with a prominent crack. Swarm up the crack to an overhang and move left through it to the slab and chains above. New anchors May2015 (MCSA) FA: David Tapp, 2010	21	Sport 9
20	★★ The Slab Of Snape The first route on the main face.Climb a series of ledges then up to good holds under a small overhang. Move left under overhang and up the slab (crux). A 60m rope ESSENTIAL. FA: Neil Margetts, 2010	16	Sport 29m, 15
21	★ Harry Catastrophe Left Hand FA: Dylan Morgan, 2004	13	Sport 20m, 9
22	★ Harry Catastrophe Right Hand Joins and finishes on HCLH about halfway. FA: Mike Grant, 2004	15	Sport 20m, 8
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	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
23	★ Slitherin FA: Rory Lawther	14	Sport 10
24	★ Variation of Slitherin Heads right, onto the face at the overhang. The climb can then be finished up the face to the right of the arete or straight up the arete. Its a little artificial but if you climb the arete, try not to resort to footholds other than on the arete. Move slightly right at the top to the anchors of Raven's Claw. Both anchors 100% as of 16 Jan 2010. FA: Neil Margetts, 2008	18	Sport 20m, 9
25	★ Raven's Claw FA: Ronald Magg, 2002	17	Sport 9
26	★ Muggle's Express Starts at the same bolt as Griffendore and goes to the left. Set: Neil Margetts FA: Robyn John, 2014	16	Sport 8
27	★ Gryffindor FA: Rory Lawther, 2010	17	Sport 10
28	★ Huff'n Puff FA: Rory Lawther	18	Sport 9
29	Crookshanks 2m right of Huff 'n Puff Set: Neil Margetts, 2007 FA: Rachel Bickford, 2007	16	Sport 8
30	Rowling's Ramble 8m right of Crookshanks Set: David Tapp, 2010 FA: David Tapp, 2010	13	Sport 6
31	Cramcakes & Scumbags starts 4m right of RR on a rocky ledge in a corner. Tricky start. FA: Louis Smit & Wiliam Graham, 2004	20	Sport 6
32	Draco's Snake Overgrown scrambling route. This is the last route at the Harry Potter crag before the path dips down to Lord of the Rings. Set: David Tapp, 2010 FA: Lize Boshoff, 2010	11	Sport 6

2. Index by grade

Grade	Stars	Name	Style
11		Draco's Snake	Sport 6
13	★	Harry Catastrophe Left Hand	Sport 20m, 9
	★	Harry Goes Trading	Trad
		Rowling's Ramble	Sport 6
14	★	Slitherin	Sport 10
15	★★★	Bolts From The Blue	Trad 40m
	★	Harry Catastrophe Right Hand	Sport 20m, 8
	★★	The Bloody Baron	Sport 12
16		Crookshanks	Sport 8
	★	Muggle's Express	Sport 8
	★★	The Slab Of Snape	Sport 29m, 15
17	★	Gryffindor	Sport 10
	★	Raven's Claw	Sport 9
18	★	Huff'n Puff	Sport 9
	★	Variation of Slitherin	Sport 20m, 9
19	★	Dodgy Glue	Sport 8
	★	Harry Pothead	Sport 6
	★★	Hermione Puts Out	Sport 10
	★★	Salazar	Sport 9
	★	Voltamor	Sport 8
20		Cramcakes & Scumbags	Sport 6
	★	Diffindo	Sport 7
21	★★	The Balls of Hagrid	Sport 9
	★★	The Philosophers Stoned	Sport 8
22	★★	Spongify	Sport 8
23	★★	Dobby	Sport 8
	★★	Hogwart's Warted Hog	Sport 9
	★★	Moaning Murtle	Sport 7
	★	Quidditch	Sport 7
24	★	Drako	Sport 2, 14
		Man Thang	Sport 6
25	★★★	Chamber Of Secrets	Sport 8