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Nodes in Südwand

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Node
Südwand

A very big crag with lots of routes. For some, there might be to many routes, but one thing is clear: Everyone will find a route he likes.

5a Südwestwand
5a Föhrenweg
6c+ Föhrenweg Direkteinstieg
5c+ - 6b Tante Ju

Route starts 5m left from the big corner (Name is written on the rock and first bolt plate). First pitch has two versions. To the left "Risseinstieg", 5c+: slightly traversing left from the start for 2 bolts, then follow the big crag (and the visible bolts). Or you start straight up, then you have a 6b. After that you go around the corner to the left and follow the corner on the outer side for the next 2 pitches. The last two pitches go more or less straigt up. 10 Runners are sufficient, you might feel better adding a few slings here and there.

6b Grosse Verschneidung
6c Zwergenweg
6c Via Alexandra
6c+ Via Dana
6b Via Dana Ausstiegsvariante
5c+ Via Sibylle
6a Donauwelle
6b Feuerwasser
5c Arosaweg
6a+ Spreizrinne
5c Blüemliweg

Renovated in 2007. 7 pitches of slab chains in total and well secured. One should take min. 12 quickdraws. Last pitch exit variant possible via 6a+.

6a Sonntagsweg

Route starts approx. 50 right of the backpack depot. Route name is written at the base, the line is marked in orange (easy to follow). The third pitch traverses to the left in the upper part, the fourth goes first further left and then quite straight up. 12 Runners are usually enough.

6a+ Via Priska
6a Flugroute

Abwechslungsreich mit schönem Quergang. Weiterweg über 'Sonntagsweg' oder 'Kleine Verschneidung' möglich

6b Freitag der Dreizehnte
6c Heirassa
6b Akro Flip
5a Kleine Verschneidung
A1 Gipfelturm
6b Weg des Wassers
6a+ Glück im Unglück
5c+ Glückspilz easy

Route is marked at the start. The first pitch is atypical trough a chimney and small roof. The rest is typical Brüggler slab. The second ptich is long. - Bring at least 12 quickdraws. - A 50m single rope is just enough for the second pitch. - There is some opportunity to place mid-sized cams (BD size 0.4-1) or nuts to calm the nerves.

Walk off to the left (towards the summit cross) and follow a blue-white marked trail back down to the base of the cliff.

6a+ Die Namenlose

Start at two bolts with rings, Name is on steel plate. The last three pitches are shared with 'Direkte Plattenwand'. In second pitch 'Direkte Plattenwand' crosses from right to left. Friend 2 can be useful in pitch 4, otherwise 12 quickdraws and some slings to combine bolts on belay stand are sufficient.

5c Direkte Plattenwand
5b Highway
5a Sorpresa
5c+ s'Zigerträumli
5a Grüne Plattenwand
6a+ Nomis
5c+ Meister Franz
4+ Silvesterroute
4b Dornröschen
5a Weihnachtsroute
4c Harmonie und Formerlebnis
4c Knorrli

50m rope required, the routes name and leaving direction is marked at every anchor.

4a Rummelflucht
5b Unterländer Plattentraum
4c Winterplättli

Very good winter-climb. Meanwhile well bolted - no additional material needed.

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