Tunis Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Table of contents

1. Tunis 12 routes in Crag

3 2 1

1 Djebel Ressas 2 Climb'IN Tunisie 3 Vita'Bloc

Summary:

Trad climbing, Top roping and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 36.806485, 10.204204

1.1. Djebel Ressas 12 routes in Area

1

1 The School of Rock

Summary:

Trad climbing, Top roping and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 36.613363, 10.338701

summary

Djebel Ressas is a high and rugged outcropping of Jurassic limestone situated on the horizon southeast of Tunis.

description

Along the highway between Tunis and Hammamet there are excellent views of Djebel Ressas as one looks south from near the tollbooths, just past the exit to Mornag. Competing in the foreground, the iconic profile of Djebel Boukournine may appear taller, but at 750 meters Ressas is the dominant peak.

access issues

Regional Status:

Most of Djebel Ressas is now an excellent setting for a day of rewarding outdoor activity. But the site hasn’t been developed in any formal sense as a recreational objective. Perhaps that’s partly due to its official status as a “nature preserve”. Just as likely, though, it’s because there hasn't been much of a demand for that kind of development in Tunisia. Ressas is a bit off the beaten path, and most folks prefer to spend their leisure time nearer the beaches or in other venues. At this writing there are no maintained hiking trails, trail markers, or service facilities at the mountain. Images viewed on Google Earth™ give some idea of the approaches and the general landscape.

Access:

Until January of 2007 hikers at Djebel Ressas could come and go as they pleased. That winter, however, stricter regulations were established following a brief police action against fundamental Islamic insurgents hiding in the surrounding region. Since then, permission is needed in order to explore the mountain legally. This can be arranged by checking in at a national guard station in the nearby village of Mornag and receiving a permit. Later, you might be required to present the permit to an officer waiting at the base of the mountain.

If you don’t mind flying under the radar, an unofficial approach would be to arrive early enough in the morning (say before 8:00 am) to reach the trailhead before the officer, thereby avoiding the annoying detail of acquiring and presenting a permit.

It may be possible to arrange for permission in advance by contacting the regional security officer at your country’s embassy in Tunis. I do this when I’m scheduling a group excursion to the mountain, just to avoid any hassles. You’ll be asked to provide basic information about your trip such as the date, number of your party, names of participants, and a brief itinerary outlining your plans. Working with the U.S. embassy, it usually takes me from one to two weeks to secure a permit in this way.

approach

Driving Directions

(45-50 minutes; good roads.)

Djebel Ressas is about a 30 km drive from Tunis in the direction of Mornag. To get there…

1. Travel southeast on A1 for about 15 km, following signs to Hammamet and Sousse.

2. Take the “Mornag” exit, just before the tollbooths. Turn right at the top of the exit ramp, then down and left at the first stop sign you’ll see.

3. Keep to the road for 0.5 km and take the first right you come to, now following signs to Mornag.

4. Drive about 2 km straight into Mornag proper, crossing the first intersection you reach and making a left turn at the second intersection. (A right turn at this intersection would put you immediately at the last gas station en route.)

5. Now you’re in the middle of town and traveling southeast on C35 (although the road is unmarked) toward Djebel Ressas. On most days you’ll probably notice a bustling open market along the right side of the road.

6. Stay on the road for about 7 km, following signs for Bouficha until you see a signpost on the left with markings for Fonderie and Jebel Ressas.

7. Turn left at the signpost and follow the rural road for nearly 2 km, past orchards and farmhouses, until you see a small, unsigned lane branching off to the left. Follow this winding lane for 1.5 km to its end.

8. You’ll know you’re there when you’ve reached an empty lot adjacent to a sleepy farming settlement and framed by Djebel Ressas in the background.

Parking:

The locals are friendly and hard working, but most adults speak no French and certainly no English. Occasionally, small children will approach with playful curiosity. The area is usually quiet and, if your car is locked and your valuables are inconspicuous, you can expect things to remain undisturbed while you’re gone. It’s smart to park near the edge of the lot, as sometimes the local kids use the space for a soccer pitch, and if your vehicle is at midfield they’ll just play right over it.

Hiking Directions:

All paths described here begin a short distance from the car park area.

1. Orient yourself by facing the mountain’s highest visible peak (The Terminator Buttress), which is due south of your car.

2. Walk southwest on a little dirt lane that leads to the right corner of the settlement, and then behind a group of sheds. Try to ignore the grumpy, barking dogs that will likely approach and threaten as you go by.

3. Once past the buildings, you’ll notice to your left and higher up, a blocky, white-washed cement structure with a distinctive blue door that houses a cistern.

From this point you can choose to follow one of the routes described here or make a path of your own. A handful of neglected utility trails exist on the slopes that once served the many abandoned mines. Nevertheless, most of the hiking on and around the mountain involves navigating rough paths etched by herds of foraging sheep and goats. Naturally, these tracks are scrappy and ambiguous, and they tend to chaotically intersect one another like irregular runnels in a dry riverbed. Adequate route-finding skills and a good sense of direction (or a compass or GPS) will be appreciated during initial attempts at finding your way around.

Approach:

:

To reach the main climbing area (The School of Rock) follow these directions:

1. Walk the primitive lane from the car park to the back of the farming settlement and below the white cistern.

2. Instead of continuing on the farm lane (which proceeds straight & level, and then bends right), follow an inconspicuous footpath that diverges to the left and upward, toward the mountain. This path climbs above the lane (which you’ll see below and on your right), taking you through scattered trees and eventually above and parallel to the east bank of a dry creek bed.

3. After hiking for about 200 meters, cross a dry bed. At the crossing point, leave the trail and hike several paces up a rocky ravine to somewhat burned and especially gnarly old tree in the center of the drainage.

4. Continue beyond the tree for another 30m, then exit the ravine to the right and head 100m west toward a large clearing.

5. Upon entering the clearing, turn south (left) to again face the highest visible peak. Then walk 50m in that direction, toward a lone boulder that’s roughly 2 meters in diameter.

6. Just a few meters beyond the boulder, locate an indistinct goat track and follow it 100 m southwest (right) until it enters trees and develops into a clearly defined path.

7. Hike south (with the mountain to your left) for about 150 more meters, passing boulders and trees, to reach a grassy slope immediately left of the path. A stone cairn, has been placed along the trail to mark this spot and hopefully it will still exist when you arrive!

8. Turn left and scramble for 50 meters, up the steep slope, through the last of the trees and onto loose scree and talus.

9. Move upward for another 50m along the western (right) edge of the scree.

10. After passing a scraggly tree in the main current of the scree, keep ascending on loose rock until forced to choose between continuing onto a dirty outcropping or crossing the scree flow to climber's left.

11. Choose the left option and carefully traverse for 15 m over the scree, to yet another gnarly tree on the opposite side of the flow.

12. Now it's just a few more steep paces to reach the first of two large buttresses, which are divided by the upper terminus of the scree slope. The surrounding crags in this vestibule make up the School of Rock.

where to stay

This agricultural area is rural, remote, and several kilometers from basic services. Simple lodging could potentially be arranged in the nearby town of Mornag. Camping on the slopes around Djebel Ressas is not permitted.

ethic

Guidelines

The development of climbing at Djebel Ressas has been gradual and sporadic. In the absence of an active climbing community no rules have been established beyond those personally dictated by good form, common sense, and respect for the local herdsmen who graciously allow access to what is essentially their backyard. While sport climbing has taken hold on Djebel Zaghoan to the south, the climbing on Ressas has remained traditional. Some old isolated bolts can be found on the higher cliffs, but no bolted routes had been established at the time of this writing.

Grades:

The ratings indicated for these climbs are tentative and have only been backed up by a very small handful of experienced climbers. Besides, the folks I partner with aren’t much concerned about that side of the business, anyway. As long as you’re climbing with pals, and the rock is fun and safe, it’s all good.

Future Development:

The projects described here are just a fraction of what could be done, and there’s plenty of potential for new developments. Undoubtedly, stronger climbers will put up higher caliber routes in the future.

history

Geography & Geologic History

The geologic origins of Djebel Ressas and the neighboring peaks date to earlier than 100 million years ago. Then, the very largest of all carnivorous dinosaurs, Spinosaurus aegyptiacus (the massive menace in Jurassic Park III) hunted in a vast and swampy tropical paradise much different from the Sahara desert we know today.

Meanwhile, just to the north, prehistoric radiolarians thrived in a primordial sea that was the ancestor of today’s Mediterranean. Covering much of what we now call the Maghreb of north Africa, massive quantities of these crustaceans inhabited that exotic marine environment and settled on the bottom when they died. Countless layers of their organic remains compacted and cemented into calcified rock on the base of the ancient seafloor, ultimately forming the limestone fabric of an emerging mountain range.

Over eons, tectonic forces laterally compressed southern regions of this sedimentary basement, thrusting buttes and peaks above the waves and nudging the sea north to its present shoreline. Gradually, the Atlas Mountains wrinkled across the upper, leading edge of Africa, with Ressas at the northeastern terminus of the range.

Today, astute hikers can discover a variety of marine fossils and hefty, angular calcite crystals in the high crags; emblems of the mountain’s organic genesis in the distant past.

Human History

Earliest references in classical literature suggest the countryside adjacent to Djebel Ressas was the setting for a legendary military engagement, fought and won decisively by the empire of Carthage against rebel mercenaries and other local enemies late in the second century B.C. Known as the “Battle of The Saw”, this event is historically significant for the 40,000 lives it is said to have claimed.

During the Second World War, the mountain was effectively defended by an isolated German artillery until the retreat of Axis forces in May of 1943.

Contrasting with earlier hostilities on the slopes, agriculture is currently the focus. Today most of the mountain is a quiet host to olive orchards and small herds of domestic livestock. The nearby town of Mornag has become the capitol of a flourishing wine producing region.

In Arabic, the name Djebel Ressas literally means ‘mountain of lead’, a reference to the ore that was mined there, perhaps from Roman times until the late 19th or early 20th century. The southeastern slopes of the djebel still support an active rock and gravel quarry. Materials from this site are used to produce cement and stone matter for meeting the demands of Tunisia’s rapidly expanding road systems and building infrastructure.

1.1.1. The School of Rock 12 routes in Area

1 2 3 4

1 The Star Wars Buttress 2 The Middle Buttress 3 The Right Wall 4 The Terminator Buttress

Summary:

Trad climbing, Top roping and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 36.610875, 10.333465

summary

The School of Rock and Crags Beyond

description

Solid rock surfaces on interesting cliffs and buttresses; this is where to go for the technical climbing. As a bonus, it’s also scenic, shaded, and a relatively short hike from the car. The area gets its name from the fact that students and other new climbers form the American school in Tunis were often brought here for an introduction to the sport (2004-2008).

A nice feature of the School of Rock is that many of the routes remain shaded throughout the day. This makes it a comfortable place to climb even during a scorcher.

If you already have some experience, the climbing here is easy to moderate...but also adventurous. Be prepared for loose rock and some dodgy pro. Much of the limestone is consolidated and strong, but some of it can be as chossy as a moldy stack of crackers.

The routes in this region are single pitched and typically rigged for top roping. Most are protected with the help of natural anchor points found on top of the buttresses and the surrounding crags. Many can be secured with a couple of long (3 meter) slings looped over massive knobs, ‘chicken heads’ and boulders.

On trad routes, choose gear placements carefully to avoid having them plucked during a zipper. For all the routes described, a relatively light rack will suffice, including a good range of stoppers, a handful of spring loaded camming devices, and maybe a few hexes and tri-cams.

A helmet for the belayer is strongly recommended! Loose stones abound and the route called ‘Death Star’ was named for a chunk of falling rock that Christian Hettick was able to dodge as he faithfully belayed his partner (2005).

Clustered here and continuing up toward the summit of Ressas, the main climbing crags include: (Along with their associated routes.)

A. The Star Wars Buttress (Death Star, X-Wing, Red-Five Standing By, Jedi Mind Trick)

B. The Middle Buttress (Launch Pad, Crack-a-Lackin', Hyperdrive)

C. The Right Wall (Pilgrim's Progress - Pitches 1,2, and 3)

D. The Next Crag (Shakin'-Flake)

E. The Terminator Buttress (Schism, The Headwall, Side Winder, Heart of Darkness)

1.1.1.1. The Star Wars Buttress 3 routes in Crag

Summary:

Top roping and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 36.610938, 10.333296

description

This narrow fin of rock is the lowest of several buttresses and the first encountered when entering the School of Rock area. It’s situated near the eastern boundary of the scree & talus flow. The upper ridge of the buttress can easily be rigged with anchors for a few solid top-roping routes.

To access the upper ridge, hike about 30 meters on ball-bearing scree, up along the western base of the buttress, until you come to a thread-like path that switches back toward the top. A short bit of 4th class climbing will put you there. Sturdy, natural cairns of angular boulders can be used as anchoring points, but make sure the stones are well situated; it doesn’t take much effort to tip some of these bad boys off into the abyss.

The following routes can all be anchored from a single point on the summit:

1. Death Star

2. X-Wing and Red Five Standing By

3. Jedi Mind Trick

1.1.1.2. The Middle Buttress 4 routes in Crag

Summary:

Top roping and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 36.610938, 10.333296

description

This feature stands like a tall island (or row of islands) in the wide stony passage that leads up from the Star Wars Buttress to the summit. Across the scree from the starting point of X-Wing and Jedi Mind Trick, the lower base of the Middle Buttress is reached by moving uphill and to the right a dozen paces or so. Three climbs have been put up here, but only one gets much follow up use.

To access the upper reaches for setting a top rope, hike from the lower base for about 15 meters uphill along the south side of the buttress. This brings you to a divide stuffed with two, freight car-sized boulders and assorted debris. The divide separates the lowest island of the buttress from its higher neighbor to the east, and in it you’ll find a very steep passage that requires 4th class moves when accessing the top. Look for notched steps, carved into the lining walls by previous users. (At one time, someone apparently made a routine of reaching this position.)

Above the divide, move left onto the lower island and seek out a suitable anchorage depending on the route you’ll be working. For the horn above Hyperdrive, a couple of long slings will probably be enough. But for the rough open corner at the top of Launch Pad, you’ll need the kind of multi-pointed anchor system that requires knowledge and experience to build. Your gear should probably include a handful of draws and stoppers (#1-3), a couple of cams (#1-2), some slings and a long narrow gauged line for making a cordelette.

Featured routes include:

1. Launch Pad

2. Crack-a-Lackin'

3. Hyperdrive

1.1.1.3. The Right Wall 2 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 36.610938, 10.333296

description

This high cliff barrier is on the right side of the main couloir leading up to the Terminator. Although the entire wall is technically a buttress on its own, the Right Wall Buttress is the name given to the bulky subsidiary cliff protruding from it in an eastward direction.

Approaching from the base of the Middle Buttress, move west, toward The Right Wall, and then right to the entrance of a den-like opening between upright leaning slabs. This spot makes a good belay stance for both Pilgrims Progress and The Right Stuff.

To access the upper region of the first pitch for setting a top rope, hike left (south) from the base for 30 meters, and then switch west up to The Right Wall. Work your way to the right until you find a huge oblong boulder with a platform at its base. Standing on this flat patch puts you directly above the belay stance. Lace a couple of extra long slings around the top of the boulder, add two locking biners, and voila! You’re golden. (One disadvantage of this set up is that the anchor point isn’t visible from the belay stance.)

Judging by the bolts and pitons discovered while making what we thought was a first ascent, the climbing potential of this crag has clearly been explored for quite some time, possibly since the late 80's or early 90's.

Featured routes include:

1. Pilgrim's Progress (Three pitches)

2. The Right Stuff

1.1.1.4. The Terminator Buttress 3 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 36.610938, 10.333296

description

This prominent feature is easily recognized with its west face gashed by a sinister 80 meter rift (The Schism).

From your car, The Terminator illusively appears to be the highest point on the mountain. It’s actually a lesser supporting buttress, fractured vertically into three large members.

Featured routes include:

1. The Schism (Project)

2. Side Winder

1.2. Climb'IN Tunisie 0 routes in Gym

summary

Première salle spécialisée dans l'escalade de bloc en Tunisie, également hub pour les grimpeurs en falaise.

description

La salle propose une structure artificielle pour la pratique de bloc, un espace restauration, et une boutique dans laquelle vous pouvez récupérer les topos des sites d'escalde disponibles et équipés en Tunisie.

history

Fondée en 2019 et lancée en 2020, la première salle fait 600m2 et vise à démocratiser l'escalade en Tunisie

1.3. Vita'Bloc 0 routes in Gym

2. Index by grade

Grade		Stars	Name	Style	Pop	Area
3			Launch Pad	Trad		1.1.1.2. The Middle Buttress
5.6		★★★	Pilgrim's Progress	Mixed trad 3, 2		1.1.1.3. The Right Wall
			Side Winder	Unknown		1.1.1.4. The Terminator Buttress
			The Schism	TradProject 25m		1.1.1.4. The Terminator Buttress
4c		★★	Shakin' Flake	Trad 25m		1.1.1.2. The Middle Buttress
			The Right Stuff	Trad 20m		1.1.1.3. The Right Wall
5a		★	Death Star	Top rope 22m		1.1.1.1. The Star Wars Buttress
		★★	Jedi Mind Trick	Top rope 22m		1.1.1.1. The Star Wars Buttress
		★	X-Wing	Trad 22m		1.1.1.1. The Star Wars Buttress
		★	Hyperdrive	Top rope 20m		1.1.1.2. The Middle Buttress
5b		★	Crack-a-Lackin'	Top ropeProject 20m		1.1.1.2. The Middle Buttress
5c			L'été indien	Trad 80m, 3		1.1.1.4. The Terminator Buttress