Shelving Rock, Rock climbing

YDS

5.5 5.7 5.8 5.9 5.10a 5.10c 5.11a 5.11c 5.12a

Map

8 1 2 7 3 4 5 6

1 Ark Wall 2 Politico Wall 3 Desert Shield 4 Jackass Buttress 5 Big Wall 6 Neanderthal Cave 7 Main Wall 8 Carhartt Wall

Directions in Google Maps

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Seasonality

Summary

Anorthosite

Beautiful crag with climbs of all levels and lengths, trad, mixed, and sport. Unreal views of Lake George from the top, especially at sunset.

Description

Cliff on the east side of Lake George with over 75 routes ranging from 5.5 to 5.12+. New routes are going up every year, so consulting the Adirondack Rock website is recommended:

http://www.adirondackrock.com/newroutes.htm

In keeping with Adirondack style, routes are predominantly mixed or trad with many good sport climbs. Some walls get sun, some walls get shade. Sun sets away from the cliff, making sunset climbs particularly beautiful, with views over Lake George from the topd of the climbs. Very short approach (5-20 min).

Access issues

Watch out for muddy conditions in the spring and for signs indicating closure of the Main Wall or the Big Wall due to peregrin falcon nesting.

Approach

Exit 20 off Route 87. Take Route 9 north until it intersects with Route 149. Turn right onto Route 149, then turn left onto Buttermilk Falls Road immediately after Vertical Farm. Follow this road as it becomes dirt. When you see Upper Hogtown Parking area straight ahead, turn left and continue on a dirt road downhill for several miles. Look for the Shelving Rock trailhead on your right, but continue past it to the next, U-shaped parking lot, #4. The path is across the street to the north of the lot that winds up the embankment.

Where to stay

Long drive in on the dirt roads (40 min), so camping nearby the crag is highly suggested. Primitive camping allowed at marked sites along Shelving Rock Road, but are first come, first served.