Artificial routes in Fingerboard training

1. Hang on jugs 7 seconds, repeat 4 times. Rest 90 seconds

2. Hang on jugs 7 seconds, repeat 4 times. Rest 90 seconds

3. Hang on jugs 7 seconds, repeat 3 times

1. Hang on jugs for 5 seconds, repeat 7 times

2. Rest 2 minutes

3. Pull up on jugs and hang on straight arms for 10 seconds, repeat 3 times

4. Rest 1 minute

5. Hang left on easy 4 finger hold, right on jug for 4 seconds, repeat 4 times.

6. Rest 2 minutes

7. Hang right on easy 4 finger hold, left on jug for 4 seconds, repeat 4 times.

8. Rest 2 minutes

9. Pull up on jugs and stay with bent arms for 5 seconds, repeat 4 times

10. Rest 2 minutes

11. Hang on jugs for 5 seconds, repeat 7 times

12. Rest 2 minutes

13. Hang on jugs for 5 seconds, repeat 7 times

1. Hang on jugs for 6 seconds, repeat 7 times

2. Rest 2 minutes

3. Pull up on jugs and hang on straight arms for 10 seconds, repeat 3 times

4. Rest 1 minute

5. Hang on easy 4 finger holds for 5 seconds, repeat 4 times

6. Rest 2 minutes

7. Pull up on easy 4 finger holds and stay with bent arms for 7seconds, repeat for 4 times

8. Rest 2 minutes

9. Hang on easy 4 finger holds for 5 seconds, repeat 7 times

10. Rest 2 minutes

11. Hang on jugs for 7 seconds, repeat 7 times

12. Rest 20 seconds

13. Hang on jugs for 6 seconds, repeat 7 times

1. Hang on jugs for 7 seconds, repeat 7 times

2. Rest 2 minutes

3. Pull up twice on jugs and hang for 10 seconds, repeat 3 times

4. Rest 1 minute 30 seconds

5. Hang on easy 4 finger holds for 6 seconds, repeat 4 times

6. Rest 2 minutes

7. Pull up on easy 3 finger holds and stay with bent arms for 4 seconds, repeat 4 times

8. Rest 2 minutes

9. Pull up on easy 4 finger holds and stay with bent arms for 5 seconds, repeat 7 times

10. Rest 2 minutes

11. Hang on easy 4 finger holds for 7 seconds, repeat 7 times

12. Rest 2 minutes

13. Hang on jugs for 20 seconds, repeat 2 times

1. Hang on jugs for 10 seconds, repeat 7 times

2. Rest 1minute 30 seconds

3. Pull up twice on jugs and hang on straight arms within 10 seconds, repeat 3 times.

4. Rest 1minute 30 seconds

5. Hang on easy 4 finger holds for 7 seconds, repeat 5 times

6. Rest 2 minutes

7. Pull up on easy 3 finger holds and stay with bent arms for 5 sconds, repeat 5 times

8. Rest 2 minutes

9. Pull up on easy 4 finger holds and hang on straight arms within 5 seconds, repeat 7 times.

10. Rest 2 minutes

11. Hang on easy 4 finger holds for 10 seconds, repeat 7 times

12. Rest 2 minutes

13. Hang on medium 4 finger holds (far right, near left) for 7 seconds, repeat 4 times

14. Rest 2 minutes

15. Hang on medium 4 finger holds (near right, far left) for 7 seconds, repeat 4 times

1. Hang on easy 4 finger holds for 7s (4s break) , repeat 7 times. Rest 1 minute 30 seconds

2. Pull up 2x on easy 4 finger holds and hang on straight arms 7s (10s break), repeat 3 times. Rest 2 minutes.

3. Hang on easy 3 finger holds for 7s (4s break), repeat 5 times. Rest 2 minutes.

4. Pull up and stay on easy 4 fingers (left) / easy 3 finger (right) holds for 5s (7s break), repeat 4 times. Rest 2 minutes.

5. Pull up and stay on easy 3 fingers (left) / easy 4 finger (right) holds for 5s (7s break), repeat 4 times. Rest 2 minutes.

6. Pull up on easy 4 finger holds and hang on straight arms for 7s (4s break) , repeat 7 times. Rest 2 minutes

7. Hang on easy 3 finger holds for 7s (4s break), repeat 7 times. Rest 2 minutes.

8. Hang on easy 4 finger holds for 7s (4s break) , repeat 7 times.

1. Hang on easy 4 finger holds for 7s/4s (hang/resr), repeat 7 times. Rest 90 seconds.

2. Hang on easy sloper (left) and deep 3 finger pocket (right) for 5s/10s (hang/rest), repeat 3 times. Rest 90sec.

3. Hang on deep 3 finger pocket (left) and easy sloper (right) and for 5s/10s (hang/rest), repeat 3 times. Rest 90sec.

4. Hang on easy 3 finger holds for 7s/4s (hang/rest), repeat 5 times. Rest 2 minutes.

5. Pull up and stay with bent arms on easy 3 finger holds holds for 7s/7s, repeat 5 times. Rest 2 minutes.

6. Pull up and hang on straight arms on easy 4 finger holds and hang on straight arms for 10s/4s, repeat 7 times. Rest 2 minutes

7. Hang on easy slopers for 7s/4s (hang/rest), repeat 5 times. Rest 90sec.

8. Hang on easy 4 finger holds for 7s/4s, repeat 7 times.

1. Hang on easy 3 finger holds for 7s/4s (hang/rest) , repeat 7 times. Rest 1 minute.

2. Hang on easy slopers for 7s/10s, repeat 7 times. Rest 2 minutes.

3. Hang on medium 3 finger holds for 5s/10s, repeat 3 times. Rest 2 minutes.

4. Hang on easy 2 finger pockets for 7s/10s, repeat 4 times. Rest 2 minutes.

5. Pull up and hang on straight arms on medium 4 finger edge for 7s/10s, repeat 5 times. Rest 2 minutes.

6. Hang on medium slopers for 5s/10s, repeat 3 times. Rest 3 minutes.

7. Hang on bad 3 finger edge for 5s/7s, repeat 5 times. Rest 2 minutes.

8. Hang on easy 4 finger holds for 7s/4s, repeat 7 times.

1. Jugs (top)

2. Jugs (top)

3. Easy 3 finger holds (middle)

4. Easy 4 finger holds, but only with 3 fingers (middle)

5. Easy 4 finger holds (middle)

6. Easy 4 finger holds (middle)

1. Easy 4 fingers holds, half crimped

2. Easy slopers (20°)

3. Easy 4 fingers holds, half crimped

4. Medium 3 finger pockets (top middle)

5. Deep 2 finger pockets, middle fingers

6. Easy 4 fingers holds

1. Easy 4 fingers holds, half crimped

2. Medium 3 finger pockets (top middle)

3. Medium 4 finger edge (bottom)

4. Deep 2 finger pockets, middle fingers

5. Easy slopers (20°)

6. Medium 4 finger edge (bottom)

1. Easy (20°) and medium (35°) sloper, switch sides between hangs

2. Medium 3 finger holds (top middle)

3. Easy 4 fingers holds, half crimped

4. Deep 2 finger pockets, front fingers

5. Medium 4 finger edge (bottom)

6. Deep 2 finger pockets, middle fingers

1. Easy (20°) and medium (35°) sloper, switch sides between hangs

2. Medium 4 finger edge (bottom)

3. Medium 3 finger holds (top middle)

4. Deep 2 finger pockets, middle fingers

5. Medium 4 finger edge (bottom)

6. Medium 4 finger edge (bottom)

1. Easy (20°) and medium (35°) sloper, switch sides between each hang

2. Medium 4 finger edge (bottom)

3. Medium 3 finger holds (top middle)

4. Deep and shallow 2 finger pocket, middle fingers, switch sides between hangs

5. Medium 4 finger edge, half crimped (bottom

6. Deep 2 finger pockets, front 2 fingers

1. Medium (35°) slopers

2. Medium 4 finger edge , half crimped (bottom)

3. Medium 3 finger (top) & medium 4 finger edge with 3 fingers (bottom), switch sides between each hang

4. Deep 2 finger (middle) & shallow 2 finger pocket (bottom), middle fingers, switch sides between each hang

5. Medium 4 finger edge , half crimped (bottom)

6. Deep 2 finger pockets, front 2 fingers

10 sets x 6 reps x 00:07 per rep

Resistance: 40% of maximum

Rest 00:03 between reps and 01:00 between sets

6 sets x 1 rep x 00:10 per rep

Resistance: 90% of maximum

Rest 02:00 between sets

Pinch Block Hangs

6 sets x 2 reps x 00:10 per rep

Resistance: 90% of 1RM

Rest 00:30 between reps and 01:30 between sets

6 sets x 6 reps x 00:07 per rep

Resistance: 70% of max

Rest 00:03 between reps and 3:00 between sets

3 sets x 1 rep x 00:30 per rep

Resistance: 70% of maximum

Rest 04:00 between sets

6 sets x 5 reps x 00:07 per rep

Resistance: 80% of Maximum

Rest 00:03 between reps and 03:00 between sets