Routes in Africa for selected grade

Nubivagant and Leve Leve share their final two and a half pitches.

Start with two pockets, big move up, climb up past big flake and continue up through roof and up headwall.

Start with good rail, traverse right move up using pocket...

See here: http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200029800/Africa-Kenya-Ndoto-Mountains-Poi-East-Face-True-At-First-Light Downgrade proposed by Slovenian team that made the second ascent in 2003, to 7C: http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP03/climbing-note-jeran

Has one bolt and climbs a ridiculously thin seam through a bulge/roof.

Climb up left past trianglar seat in the middle of the wall.

Partly bolted. Some nuts and cams required.

Climb up left past trianglar seat in the middle of the wall.

One of the harder routes on the Ledge. Sustained and a touch exciting.

Start: Start on the staircase ledge about 5m to the right of the arête between 'Jeopardy' and 'Jacob's Ladder'

1. [31] 40m Scramble up the large layback seam for about 10 meters to a ledge. Climb up the centre of the overhanging face through a series of small roofs to the 'Roulette' rail. Plenty of smallish cams are useful to protect this bottom section. Resisting the temptation to sit on the 'Roulette' ledge, rail right for 1m, pull through the roof and climb directly up the face just right of the main arete to join the original line at the 'Captain Hook' rail.

2. Figure out a cunning way to get down and to retrieve your gear or join the final pitch of Roulette.

Rail right for 1m, pull through the roof and climb directly up the face just right of the main arete to join the original line at the hook rail.

Start as for 'Roulette Arête'.

Start as for 'The Squid and the Whale-Original'

Left of 'Roulette'

One of the harder routes on the Ledge. Sustained and a touch exciting.

Start: Start on the staircase ledge about 5m to the right of the arête between 'Jeopardy' and 'Jacob's Ladder'

1. [31] 40m Scramble up the large layback seam for about 10 meters to a ledge. Climb up the centre of the overhanging face through a series of small roofs to the 'Roulette' rail. Plenty of smallish cams are useful to protect this bottom section. Resisting the temptation to sit on the 'Roulette' ledge, rail right 2m and gain the next rail using the vertical crack. From this position, pull straight through the next little roof via difficult moves to establish in some underclings. Climb past a peg and move diagonally left past the crux of 'Jeopardy' to 2 more pegs and the 'Captain Hook' rail (the end of 'Jeopardy'). Lace the rail with cams and climb the blunt arête. Pull straight through the next roof and exit out left onto jugs on the headwall.

2. Figure out a cunning way to get down and to retrieve your gear or join the final pitch of Roulette.

Starts from the big block right of 'Boa Rodeo'. One bolt protects the bottom crux followed by some technical, run out endurance sections.

1. [16] 35m

   ???

2. [32] 15m

   ???

Roof to the right of Cukoo's nest.

Start as for Wolfgang, and then follow the line of bolts and seam up the wall to the anchor. Some trad gear is also required to protect the route.

The very steep bulge has a bolt in it and anchors and is open for anyone to try..if you feel inspired.

Mixed route. Bottom half follows beautiful vertical overhanging crack that takes medium to small pro, about 5.12b. Upper half is probably 5.13, and remains unbolted. Bolted anchors sit just below a tree about 25 meters up. Must rappel down to them from the 3 top rope anchors above Kelly's Corner. Early attempts by Kelly Baker on trad/TR, Ziad Orfali and Anthony Rouhana on TR. Steve Heston has made highest clean TR assent so far.

Climbing notes:

Route leads between two black stumps in the middle of the tower.

Recommended equipment:

• 17 quickdraws
• 2x 60m ropes

Pitches info:

1. 55m (9 bolts)

2. 50m (10 bolts)

3. 45m (8 bolts)

4. 60m (16 bolts)

5. 60m (4 bolts)

6. 40m (3 bolts)

Route diagram:

• AILEDESCIMES - Mainty sy fotsy

Starts on a boulder then a journey with 3 crowd-pleasing roofs. A must-do! MCSA bolts.

Video

Groundfall potential when clipping chains

knee pads recommended

Direct version of 'Stitch it'. From the obvious slopey right hand side pull keep going straight up, slightly left on small holds. Leave the chalk bag behind. A power test-piece.

Start with your feet on the lowest boulders, preclip first bolt. Enjoy the intricate footwork and desperate stabbing for holds. Finish rightwards to for most fun.

Very long line running up the entire left side of the overhang

Starts off the boulder. Climb up and pre-clip the 2nd draw. Dead-point your way to the chains.

https://www.climbing.co.za/2018/01/old-projects-opened-by-andrea-biffi-in-montagu/

Boven‟s 'King Line'. Climb up behind the tree to a ledge then the climbing starts. Up to a shake at a half height then a wicked 10-move boulder problem through the wonderful smooth rock, to good holds. One of the greatest climbs. 70 m rope needed. It is possible to move off-line to a jug far right just before the crux but this is a kop-out and would be graded 30/31.

Share start with 'African Dream'

Ask Damien if you can open it for him. Once you’ve both finished laughing, he might well say yes.

Start up 'Monster' and move right at the 4th bolt. Some funky moves through the white roof, get a rest in the 'man trap' then finger jugs diagonally to the chains. 70 m rope needed. Low in the grade if you use all the latest tricks. Use slings on the bolts below the roof to reduce drag.

Open project.

Share start with 'Dance of the Bushman'

Not the Steve McClure 9a but pretty cool. Climbs 'The Beast' until 2/3 height then shoot straight up the strenuous crack. A nice variation on the original. 31 if you can get the jams right? use a 70m rope

A striking line up the blunt, NE arete of the Sentinel Tower. Open project.

Climb 'Chocolate Éclair' then continue over the roof with a grunt, then up the headwall. Some very satisfying and crimptastic moves. The route remains dry during heavy rain.

left wall middle route

Starts off the same ledge as 'Tokolosie', or from the ground. Up the orange vertical wall past hard moves including a very defensive little hold, take a rest at the ledge then up the leaning headwall via some real sequency climbing. Don‟t get butchered. Solid at the grade.

Phlip Olivier

Matthew Hill

The one that killed the 'Jabberwocky'. Crimpy and gymnastic climbing to the right of 'Jabberwocky', shares first bolt with 'Hell Yeah'. An unbelievable climb, one of best sport pitches in SA. Need a 70 m rope.

The route has seven manufactured holds