Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | Crag | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
9 | ★★ Visions of Cosmic Doom
The arête at the bottom of the access gulley. A classic! FA: Clive Curson, 1991 | 7 | Waterval Boven | ||
9 | Visions of Cosmic Bloom
FA: G. Holwill, 1986 | 10m, 4 | Peer's Cave | ||
9 | ★ Milou
Starts just left of the tree at the base of 'Crouching Tiger'. Halfway up the face there is a u-bolt anchor before the final crux. A must do, especially if you are old enough to walk. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Charles Fourie, 2007 | 8 | Waterval Boven | ||
{FR} 3 | Lemon Squeezy
The first sport route on the left. Begin up an easy slab to steeper terrain. Somewhat runout. This route was rebolted in January 2020. The bolt placements were kept the same as the FA party. Currently (1/25/20) no anchor but it's possible to traverse right to an anchor. FA: Ia Westman & Asa Forsman | 15m, 3 | Lukenya | ||
9 | Hot Plate
Start next to a bush at the base of the wide crack in the easy angled face on the right of the path leading to the bottom of the crag. Climb the face next to the crack for about two metres and then traverse left to the corner. Climb up the blocky face to the top. FA: Charles Axelson, Sherman Ripley & Ted Gathercole, 1941 | Monteseel | |||
9 | Meadow Lane
Follow the left-most line of bolts up the grooves and ledges to where you can reach the lower-offs. A slightly easier variation is found if you deviate 1-2m left after the first bolt. FA: Clive Curson, 1994 | 5 | Strubens Valley | ||
{UIAA} 3 | ★★ South East Gully
Climb the prominent wide gully on the SE Face. Take the right-hand branch leading to the main ridge at a prominent sharp V-notch. The most difficult parts are just before reaching the main ridge, and from here to the summit. Variation: Where the gully branches, the left-hand route may be taken. This gully, less clearly defined, joins the other route on the summit ridge. (Grade III, J I Moore and H C Pereira, Aug. 1949). When free of snow this gully can be climbed down without abseiling (III). The tower buttress right of the South-East Gully may also have been climbed by a Cape Town University party, in January 1965. FA: R.E.G. Russell & Eric Shipton, 1929 | 350m | Mt Kenya | ||
9 | ★ Goldilocks
Climb the short, neat, wrinkly face between the 'Three Bears' and 'Hot Porridge'. | 5 | Mt Everest Guest Farm | ||
{UIAA} 3 | ★★ NE Gully and Ridge
Time: Half a day. An obvious fully leads to the North-East Ridge. Then rope down to another gully which leads to the summit. A much better (if harder) variation to this route is to follow the first gully until the wall steepens. Go up and traverse left, then follow cracks up to a tat belay. Fun, maybe Severe climbing with a well-protected crux. From belay go up until te ridge, then follow right to top. Descent is back down the same route on tat anchors. Check this and add your own tat. 3 proper pitches, the initial gully can easily be scrambled or simul-climbed. FA: Eric E. Shipton & H.W. Tillman, 1930 | 3 | Mt Kenya | ||
{FB} 3A - C+ | ★★ Where's Wally?
Sit-start and climb up on jugs. | Rocklands | |||
9 | Fadja's Revenge
5 meters to the right of the ladder. FA: D Margetts A Margetts, 2008 | 5 | Waterval Boven | ||
9 | ★★ Drogons Back
Start right of the obvious arete in the middle of the main wall and climb the arete rock ridge to the anchors. Perma-draws as top anchors. Set: Thomas von Thonder FA: Thomas von Tonder | 9m, 6 | Cable Way Crags | ||
9 | Throw the Chicken
FA: Stuart Brown, 2002 | 5 | Montagu | ||
9 | Fig Tree
1
9
15m
2
9
25m
Easy, but interesting climbing. Either abseil down Jack the Ripper and walk West or abseil off the blocks at the top of the cliff ~50m East of the Utopia access abseil. Both abseils are ~40m. The route name is painted on the rock at the base of the cliff. (1) Climb a shallow recess for a few metres before traversing left onto an easy face. Climb the face to a ledge and then walk left to some blocks, belay here. (2) Climb the corner left of the blocks until reaching a ledge to the left with large flakes leaning against the face. Traverse the ledge until able to climb directly up to finish. Alternatively, traverse along the top of the flakes (awkward). FA: 1945 | 40m, 2 | Monteseel | ||
9 | ★★ Bob
Starts a couple meters left of 'Milou', up generally easy slab to bolted anchor at the base of the obvious arête in the upper part of the cliff. | 7 | Waterval Boven | ||
9 | ★★ Als
Start just right of 'Mel', following U-bolts up diagonally rightwards then up to anchor. FA: Jette Bollerup, 1 Jan 2017 | 11 | Waterval Boven | ||
FB:3A - C+ | Unknown 2
Climb up the steps | Table Mountain | |||
{FB} 3A - C+ | ★★ Warm-up Crack
Climb the crack. FA: Michael Janata, 2006 | Rocklands | |||
FB:3A - C+ | ★ First Taste of Fear
Start as Just One Second, climb up left to the top FA: Helen Gosnell, 2022 | Rocklands | |||
{FB} 3A - C+ | ★ Last Thursday
Sit-start and climb the face. | Rocklands | |||
9 | ★★ Red Under the Bed
The alpine arête between 'True Blue' and 'Wysiwyg', starting just left of and below 'Mellow Yellow' - smaller U-bolts. Go diagonally left towards the arête then up to a ledge at half height. Lower from here (8 bolts) or continue up to the 'Mellow Yellow' anchors Set: Clive Curson, 2018 FA: 2018 | 12 | Waterval Boven | ||
9 | ★ Gateway
| Krantzkloof Nature Reserve | |||
{FB} 3A - C+ | Nemesis
Start with left hand sloper and right hand crimp and climb up left. FA: Michael Janata, 2005 | Rocklands | |||
9 | Owl
| Monteseel | |||
{FB} 3 | ★ Gallivanting
| The Wilds | |||
{FB} 3A - C+ | Retrogression
Climb the arête. | Rocklands | |||
{FB} 3A - C+ | Downclimb
The easiest way up or down. | Rocklands | |||
9 | ★ Orpheus
On the left-hand side part of the ledge step (1-2.5m) over a gap and climb the break to the top FA: G. Hart & R. Suter, 2003 | 10m | Hellfire | ||
9 | ★★ Pluto
Start on the furthermost part of the prominent ledge. Climb the break to the top FA: R. Suter, 2002 | 9m | Hellfire | ||
3a | ★★★ Kid's dream
| 20m, 8 | Sinai Peninsula | ||
9 | Wall Banger
From the chains, climb 2m back up the gully, then up the 1st route on the left to the summit block. FA: Clive Curson, Jul 2017 | 10 | Waterval Boven | ||
9 | Left Corner Chimney
1
9
23m
2
8
18m
Starts 25 to 30m up Short Gully from 'Left Corner'.
FA: J. Plekker, K. Ruhle & E. Ruhle, 1945 | 41m | Magaliesberg | ||
{FB} 3A - C+ | ★★★ Walk in the Park
Climb the obvious line of jugs. | Rocklands | |||
5.3 | Easy Up
The gully/corner to the left of Escalator. 5.3 FA: unknown | 10m | Secret Valley | ||
9 | ★★ Straight Jacket
1
8
6m
2
9
18m
3
8
12m
This climb is situated near the east end of the face which runs eastward from Fountain Gully. It commences at the only big tree in this vicinity, left of a big block.
FA: E. Ruhle & K. Ruhle, 1946 | 36m, 3 | Magaliesberg | ||
9 | Beetle Face
Climb the attractive face to the left of Cherry Face. Keep up the middle up this easy climb | Northcliff | |||
9 | ★★ Odin
Descent: Walk down the Cape Town side. FA: R. Suter, 2002 | 10m | Hellfire | ||
9 | ★★ Snoopy
The extension of 'Garfield' to the chains near the sloping block at the very top. FA: Clive Curson & Jette Bollerup, Feb 2017 | 14 | Waterval Boven | ||
FB:3A - C+ | Unknown
Sit start and climb up juggy holds | Rocklands | |||
9 | Pineapple
Climb the outside corner left of Belcher. | Northcliff | |||
9 | ★★ Gus
Traverse up and right following the black mark-ed bolts (and cable!). Start up 2 bolts of 'Als', up another move as for 'Jane', then traverse behind the large tree and across the square ledge. Step up right onto the slab, similar to 'Kaj', and traverse right to the 3 U-bolt anchor at a ledge close to the arête. From here one may rappel/lower off, or bring up a 2nd then do any of the 4 right hand routes on this slabby perched face. Can easily be soloed up or down with the via ferrata but know how to use the via ferrata safely before trying this. The via ferrata becomes way more technical and exposed going around the arête into the gully. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Clive Curson, Jan 2017 | 10 | Waterval Boven | ||
{FB} 3A - C+ | Easy Wall
Climb the easy wall. FA: Michael Janata, 2010 | Rocklands | |||
FB_ALT:3 | ★★ Baby Steps
BEWARE OF THE SLOPING FALL BELOW. Within the cluster of boulders in the area. This one is the first you encounter. On the smoothest face of this boulder there are plenty of pockets and bulbs to ascend on. Easy for new climbers. FA: Karim Sedky, 11 Dec 2020 | 2m | Cairo | ||
9 | Shelob’s Lair
The little chimney that climbs to a chock stone at the top. FA: Jens Kock, 2007 | 5 | Sabie Gorge | ||
{FB} 3A - C+ | Possum Pie
Climb the easy wall. FA: Michael Janata, 2010 | Rocklands | |||
9 | Wonder Boy
2-3m right of 'Wall Banger'. Climb the right wall of the gully, just down from the railway. Go leftish to a choice of anchors. FA: Clive Curson & J.Bollerup, Sep 2017 | 9 | Waterval Boven | ||
9 | ★ Toy Soldier
FA: Gavin Peckham & Rodney Owen, 1995 | 5 | White Umfolozi River | ||
{FB} 3A - C+ | The Easy Way Up
Climb the juggy arête. Note: Also the downclimb FA: Klem Loskot, 2005 | Rocklands | |||
{UIAA} 3 | NW Face
| Mt Kenya | |||
FB:3A - C+ | Warm-up Traverse
Hang-start on a big jug, traverse right along the lip and finish up the front of the prow. FA: Stewart Noy, 2007 | Blackhill Boulder Garden | |||
{FB} 3A | ★★ Chucky
Climb the stacked blocks/ rib on the left. FA: Unknown | 3m | Table Mountain | ||
{FB} 3A - C+ | A.N.C.
Crouch start and climb the juggy groove. | Redhill | |||
FB:3A - C+ | Bum Crack
sit down, both hands on the lower hole. Top out through vertical crack FA: phlip olivier, 2009 | Paarl Rock | |||
FB:3A - C+ | ★★ The Arse
Start with both hands on large jug between 'cheeks'. climb directly up top out. Using a fist jam on this problem may be tempting, but consider your reputation... | Topside | |||
{FB} 3 | ★★ Kitchen Confidential
FA: Paul Rainer-Pope | 4m | Tafelberg | ||
{FB} 3A - C+ | Teapot Face
Climb the many easy lines up the featured face FA: Fred Nicole, 1996 | Rocklands | |||
FB:3A - C+ | ★★★ The Boot
Sit-start and climb the face. FA: phlip olivier, 2009 | Paarl Rock | |||
FB:3A - C+ | Circulation Arête
Climb the juggy arête feature. FA: Scott Noy, 2007 | Blackhill Boulder Garden | |||
{FB} 3A - B+ | ★★ Gehenna
Climb the slab FA: Steve Koehorst, 1997 | Table Mountain | |||
9 | ★ Relapse
1
9
15m
2
9
20m
3
9
20m
Start as for 'Solo' in a crack to the left of an upstream facing slab.
| 55m, 3 | Magaliesberg | ||
{FB} 3A - C+ | Touching the Future
Climb the easy corner. | Rocklands | |||
9 | DAISY
Climbs the open book 5m to the left of SCROOGE.
FA: Darryl Margetts, Martin Seegers & Tanja Truter, 1989 | 20m | Magaliesberg | ||
{FB} 3A - C+ | Manic Monday
Standstart. Climb the slab. | Redhill | |||
{FB} 3A | Rastaliens
| Redhill | |||
FB:3A - C+ | White Slab
| Rocklands | |||
FB:3A - C+ | Rotten Luck
Sit-start with left hand in the groove and climb the broken face keeping left. FA: Stewart Noy, 2007 | Table Mountain | |||
9 | Breakfast Run
1
8
35m
2
9
35m
3
8
35m
Start on the ridge to the left of 'Carabiner Crag' and at the lowest point of the buttress to the left of the dark face and prominent cracks which face onto 'Carabiner Crag'.
FA: R. Fox & Dan Scott, 1979 | 110m, 3 | Magaliesberg | ||
{FB} 3A - C+ | Roof Crack
| Rocklands | |||
FB:3A - C+ | Lightning Sword
Sit-start with both hands in the right end of the jug rail, left hand to a sidepull in a seam and top-out direct. FA: Stewart Noy, 2007 | Blackhill Boulder Garden | |||
FB:3A - C+ | G1
Start in rail, long move climb diagonally right to good hold, then do battle with the bush to top out. | Topside | |||
9 | Tweedle Dum
Start as for 'Tweedle Dee' but tend left, to reach the base of recess on the left to the 'Tweedle Dee' arête. From the recess, step up left onto a ledge and then exit straight up. It is harder than 9 if you start of slightly to the left of 'Tweedle Dee'. FA: Gavin Peckham, 2002 Set: Gavin Peckham, 2002 | Old Shongweni | |||
{UIAA} 3 | South Face
| Mt Kenya | |||
9 | STONEHENGE
Starts to the right of BLOCKBUSTER.
FA: R. Fox & Dan Scott, 1988 | 30m | Magaliesberg | ||
9 | FAITH’S CRACK
The chimney on the upstream side of the LEAP OF FAITH buttress.
FA: Dylan Morgan & Warren Krynie, 2003 | Magaliesberg | |||
{FB} 3A - C+ | Banana Rama
Climb the slab. | Rocklands | |||
FB:3A - C+ | The Dynamic Duo
Hang-start with left hand on a 'two-pocket ledge' in the rail, climb diagonally right to two jugs in a rail and top-out direct without using the shelf on the right for feet. Gets high quick! FA: Stewart Noy, 2007 | Blackhill Boulder Garden | |||
FB:3A - C+ | ★★ Teepee
Start with right hand in good pocket. Climb slab to top out. | Topside | |||
VB+ | Le Papillon
Topo. | Mahé | |||
9 | ★★ OPUS ONE
Start 10m to the right of LITTLE MOLAR in extreme right of the small gully (160 paces downstream from meet point).
Note: Descent gully behind pillar on left or abseil off large tree. FA: R. Fox, Miss C. Chester & Dan Scott, 1978 | 30m | Magaliesberg | ||
9 | ★★ Monkeying Around
FA: Unknown | 15m | Bobbejaanskop | ||
FB:3A - C+ | Pirates on Dope
Stand start, climb the pinnacle, TO. | Redhill | |||
FB:3A - C+ | Kjhgkj
| Rocklands | |||
FB:3A - C+ | Trailerpark Trash
| Table Mountain | |||
{FB} 3 | Codgers Corner
| The Wilds | |||
{FB} 3A - C+ | Unknown
| Rocklands | |||
FB:3A - C+ | Honeycomb
Sit-start and head straight up the crumbly comb. FA: Stewart Noy, 2007 | Blackhill Boulder Garden | |||
FB:3A - C+ | V3
Sit start, climb to top out. | Topside | |||
9 | Have We Sunk to This?
Start about 10m to the right of 'Witch's Brew' and just to the left of a tree at the bottom of the crag. Climb straight up to a ledge and then up blocks to the top. FA: Gavin Peckham & Bruce Sobey, 2005 Set: Gavin Peckham & Bruce Sobey, 2005 | Old Shongweni | |||
{UIAA} 3 | SE Chimney
| Mt Kenya | |||
3 | Rafotsy | Antananarivo | |||
9 | GARDEN VIEW
1
9
38m
2
7
25m
Opposite the waterfall gully and 12m upstream of the first weir is a long arête that forms a curved knife-edge at the top, finishing on prominent grey blocks. Start in the grey band of rock below a large tree 15m up.
Note: Good tripper's route. FA: R. Fox & Dan Scott, 1985 | 63m, 2 | Magaliesberg | ||
3 | Launch Pad
Launch Pad is a low-angled pitch suitable for beginners, partly because the route is pretty obvious and can be clearly viewed from the bottom. A shallow boulder on the ground near the base of the climb makes a fine perch for the belayer.
FA: Jim Ryan, Christian Hettick & Jean Michelle Delmot, 2005 | Tunis | |||
FB:3A - C+ | FAR hope
| Rocklands | |||
FB:3A - C+ | Freshly Squeezed
Sit-start with both hands on an undercling, right hand to a jug. Base is off for feet once you have the jug. FA: Stewart Noy, 2007 | Blackhill Boulder Garden | |||
FB:3A - C+ | C4
Sit start and climb face to top out. | Topside | |||
VB+ | L'Espadon
Topo. | Mahé | |||
{FB} 3A - C+ | Yellow Brick Road
Climb the twin crack slab. FA: Scott Noy, 2003 | Rocklands | |||
9 | ★★ LITTLE MOLAR
On the right-hand side of the lower kloof, 180 paces downstream from the usual meet point is a 40m pile of smooth brown pillar-like rocks. The climb starts 15m from the stream bed in a crack behind a tree in front of the left-hand pillar.
Descent as for OPUS ONE. FA: R. Fox, Miss C. Chester & Dan Scott, 1978 | 30m | Magaliesberg | ||
FB:3A - C+ | Skinny Puppy
Stand start, climb the slab, TO. | Redhill | |||
FB:3A - C+ | Flat Top
| Rocklands |