Routes in Africa for selected grade

Climbs the right hand side of the scoop, following a crack system all the way to the top of the crag. Cool line with some nice exposure at the top.

Climb the blobby featured face around the corner of 'Captain Hook' . Take care with your rope as there is quite a bit of rope wear when lowering.

Interesting start, eases up after 2nd bolt.

Climbs the left facing corner with 1m roof high up. Not as hard as it looks.

Starts up some steep jug hauling before moving diagonally left up a break towards the chains.

This route has a permanent draw at the anchors.

Up 3 small ledges and the groove just left of 'Bongoleo'.

This climb starts on the far right hand side, starting at the bottom of the steep descent on the walk in.

Climb up a face left of a large right facing corner out to a huge cammed block. Swing left under block and up.

Start as for CFD, on the block. Traverse left and up the wall to curve back right to the anchors.

Go up the face to the right of the break used by THUGGERY. Pull into the base of the short corner, and climb to the lower-offs on the left, under the tree.

Start in corner, just left of chimney. Move left onto slab then right onto a short right facing corner. Climb to ledge then move left onto left facing corner. Steep moves at the top. Bad rope drag - take some long draws.

Start at the coral tree 10m right of HP.

Starts about 10m around the corner of TP and follows the corner to the top.

Start at the base of a jam crack 4m right of recess. Climb steeply past the funnel feature, tending slightly right towards the top.

Crux is at the start, great warm up climb.

The climb commences on the white face just to thw left of the Lily Pond.

P1 & 2 can be bypassed by climbing the first pitch of Africa Wall, bringing the grade down to 13.

1. [15] 25m Previuosly 2 pitches. Pull up on the white fae on horizontal holds. Move right into the groove. Climb up with an awkward move up on a sloping ledge, then a delicate move up on tiny footholds on the rib on the right to reach the handgrips on the top. Exit up right on to the stance. Traverse across left and out on to the projecting platform on the nose

2. [11] 28m Climb the face to the broad Upper Africa Ledge. Now walk across to the left to the base of a chminey, facing the cable station. in the huge nose.

3. [10] 23m Climb 8m up the chimney and traverse out left around the corner for 12m and move up to a small stance on the edge of a diagonal crack on the side of the nose.

4. [13] 36m Pull up from the stance and traverse up and across left to a tiny platform on the front edge of the noae. Pull up through an overhang on to the crest of the nose above, and continue up the right-hand ednge until possible to move up onto a ledge stance with a huge block on it. (It is also possible to move up using a recess just right of the actual crest of the nose instead of pulling up from the tiny platform.

5. [12] 20m From the back of the stance step slightly down and to the left, climb a crack to a horizontal handrail. Traverse left on the corner, then climb the easy face above to a large ledge.

6. [9] 15m A grass covered face behind the ledge is now climbed from right to left into a gully leading to behind a large block. Climbing out around the back of this blockand on to the front of it leads to easy rock to the top.

Classic easy route on Lion's head granite.

Start at the obvious leaning pillar 5 metres right of Gwilym's Rest.

1. Climb the leaning pillar and continue up the crack to a big leaning flake. Traverse right below the flake and then up onto a narrow ledge. Move right to a bolted stance.

2. Climb the crack to the right of the bolts and continue slightly left up an easy slab, then over some blocks on an earthy ledge. Climb a short, knobbly face to belay from a good ledge below a prominent right-facing layback. One can scramble off left at this point.

3. Layback up the corner and step left at the top. Climb onto a razor-thin flake and, stepping right, continue up the face above, aiming for a thin, exfoliating flake. Above and slightly left of this, a very thin crack up a smooth friction face takes you to a ledge in a depression at the top of the route.

Sure to be a classic. Work up the easy slab to good holds. From here swim up perfect jugs through the steep upper section to a two-bolt anchor.

Start on the far left corner of the pinnacle. Some lateral thinking may be required for this climb.

Start about 4m to the left of the pinnacle.

One of the original lines. Work up to a first bolt through one of a few variations to start. Hardest and most interesting variation is to go direct up the slab (4c is for this direct variation).

This route was rebolted in January 2020. The bolt placements were kept the same as the FA party. There is a new bolted anchor.

Crouch start on good jug. Follow jugs on and slightly right of arête. TO.

Climb up through groove to good face climbing above.

Takes the slanting crack just right of 'Blood in the Dust'. Continue up the arête and out right to the lower-offs at the high point.

Start at the sentry box and traverse right across the wall, to exit up the roof-capped corner..

First pitch ends at the button.

1. 8 bolts

2. 7 bolts

A quick mantle leads to an easy slab and a perfect steep upper section just left of the tree. Lower-off anchor (hooks - no need to clean).

This climb starts upstream of the descent gully near the upper campsite, on the true right of the kloof. It starts in the recess 8m downstream of 'Difficult Shapes and Passive Rhythms' .

1. 22m 15 Climb the recess/chimney. Finish through the crack on the left.

The climb begins about 15m upstream from the junction with Tonquani and about 5m upstream of CEDARBERG RECESS.

1. 42m 10 From the flat ledge 1,5m above stream level (mentioned in CEDARBERG CORNER), ascend easy rock (slightly vegetated) tending slightly right passing a large nettle tree to reach a large ledge. From the ledge climb the face on the left to gain a second ledge and small tree belay.

2. 35m 15 Ascend open book (above right hand cairn) using a series of narrow ledges. From top of open book move right and mantleshelf onto a narrow ledge to gain the base of the groove. Pull up into groove and continue past a large flake, scaling a short open book to reach a ledge and tree belay.

Variation: 2a. 30m 13 As for the first part of the original pitch, but instead of climbing the flake/groove, move right 5m to below a good crack. Climb the crack. (1990 M. Seegers and D. Margetts)

Typical chimney climb to the left of 'Goats Milk Gives Me Gastro'. Technical and fun climbing to a ledge above which you can top out on or ab in from chains.

The obvious left-leaning dyke.

1. 7 bolts and chains

2. 3 bolts and chains

Starts left of Dyke, but crosses shortly after the start.

1. 8 bolts

2. 3 bolts

The Red Column is an outstanding feature on the right hand side of the kloof about 45m upstream from the point of entry of Boulder Kloof into Tonquani Kloof. The climb commences on downstream face of 'Red Column' and starting point is reached by proceeding up the grass slope below then bearing right to the base of the first overhang near the outer edge of the column. Start in dark corner at a medium sized tree.

1. [11] 15m

   Ascend corner for 6m to a grey face sloping at about 65o. Traverse diagonally left to small ledge thence vertically up another 4,5m to a large ledge. Hand-traverse left (strenuous) 2- 3m and walk over to boulder 2,5m high. Hand-traverse can be avoided by climbing down a few meters and traversing at a lower level.

2. [15] 9m

   Short traverse right, taking off from the top of boulder and balancing round corner to small stance, whence the route goes vertically up a shallow steep recess to a ledge with belay.

3. [13] 15m

   Traverse right along easy ledge to outer edge of the column. Ascend into an open book. Climb open book until one can move out to the right on to a narrow ledge and peg belay above.

4. [15] 22m

   Climb up to right of stance up a 8m sloping grey slab until steep red rock is reached. Traverse 3m right to a horizontal finger of rock where a running belay can be fixed. From here ascend the shallow steep recess above. Halfway up the recess is a difficult move. At the top of the recess traverse 1,5m right and then pass through a break in the overhang to easy rock, which leads to the top.

Note:

The first 2 pitches are the same as those used by the route 'Staircase'

Variations:

2a. 8m 19 Instead of traversing right, climb onto block and follow crack to top. (Is this the first pitch of 'Geriatrical' ?) (Jun 1986 D. Margetts, G. Margetts and R. Diesel)

3a. ?m 19 From tree belay of second pitch of 'Red Column Face' climb easily up the left wall of gully to reach large ledge below overhanging crack containing two chockstones. Ascend crack awkwardly at first (beware of head jams) moving right at top past tree to belay above gully.(Jul 1981 P. Douglas and M. Brunke) (This is possibly pitch 2 of 'Geriatrical' ?)

4a. 20m 19 From the narrow ledge stance, climb straight up the arête. The last few moves are shared with 'Red Column Face' . Possibly the best arête pitch in the Magaliesberg! (2 Jan 2013 Andrew Porter and Garreth de Beer)

An ideal first multi-pitch experience.

1. Start in the left facing corner right of 'Ad Maiorem Dei Gloriam'. Climb into the dihedral and out of it.

2. Traverse out left on easy ground and cross over 'Hemp On the Hill' until an obvious ledge is found as a platform to belay from.

Rap or get lowered off the chains.

Joins and finishes on HCLH about halfway.

A grand old Lukenia classic and a superb introduction to this cliff. At the left end of the cliffs a prominent crack with a rightwards rising ear at 4.5m. Climb crack and step right around ear. Continue easily up to ledge and left-hand fig tree belay. Climb white-coloured wall left of big groove with a tricky step left onto good position on arete, and move up to ledge & belay. Move out rightwards 3m past small nettle tree, and up to horizontal crack. Up directly over this and up wall (crux) above to obvious recess. Traverse left 3m and straight up to top.

Sit Down Start. Around the corner, to the left of 'P. L. Traverse', sit with both hands in the long horizontal crack. Each hand is on either side of the arête. Climb up the arête to top out.

Sit-start with large flat hold and climb straight up.

The best easiest way up the Castle, and superior to Committee Wall. Ian Howell first climbed it in 1982 but to this day can't remember who his second was. Some parties belay half-way up in the Committee Wall 'keyhole', but this might not be the best belay in the world. It can be done in one long pitch, but watch your pro carefully for the last thing you want on the final moves is rope-drag. The climb takes the East face of the Castle and starts in a gully where there is a leaning block below and right of the Committee Wall 'keyhole'. From block move up leftwards past a bolt, step left and continue leftwards to the arete. Straight up to 'keyhole'. Move up rightwards some 6m and gain a prominent ledge system which leads up diagonally leftwards. Hold your breath and traverse left along this (crux), until holds allow an exit above.

An alternative start which takes the off-balance groove/crack on the left of the first bolt.

This climb has nothing to do with Republican. It starts at an undercut face immediately to the right of the start of Republican.

Pull up strenuously but on good holds to the corner formed by this, and the left-hand edge of the Cain face. Continue up the left-hand edge of the Cain face and finish one metre to the left of Cain.

The climb follows an obvious downstream facing corner 150m downstream of the junction with Pool Gully.

1. 20m (15) Climb up crack to a roofed ledge on the right. Stay on the left face at the top until it is easy to step onto the ledge.

2. 12m (9) Chimney up behind stance. Go left on ledge above to bolted anchors.

Pitches 1 & 2 can be done in one pitch by climbing just to the left of the block above the first stance (15).

There are bolted anchors on the ledge. These can be used to abseil back down. It is possible to scramble out from here or to climb the red buttress above the ledge at grade 10, but at much less quality than the previous two.

12m 10 This is an arbitrary pitch up the centre of the red buttress straight above. It is necessary to climb out to the right to avoid an overhang at the top.

Sit-start with good hold and climb straight up

Video

The top section provides interesting and enjoyable climbing. Start at a small tree and a wide crack in the corner to the right of the Fall Out wall.

1. Climb up the corner to the roof. Move left onto the face and climb the slanting crack to the ledge.

2. Walk to the left-hand end of the ledge. Layback into the wide crack and continue until about half way up. Move around left onto the face and continue to the top.

Variation: Make a direct start just to the right of Granny’s and climb straight up to the top in a single pitch.

Easy route for beginners.

20m before "The Pumphouse"

A route heading straight up to the right side of the pillar. The climb starts on the top of a ramp near a small tree (possible to climb a first pitch below). All belays are bolted (enabling abseil if you bring your own karabiners/maillons). The route is mixed trad/bolts and is very runout as it was bolted ground up.

1. 45m. Head up tending leftwards to cross a small overhang, then clip a bolt. Continue straight up to a nice belay ledge.

2. 50m. From the ledge, head left to cross small overhangs then head straight up, clipping a bolt on the way. Stay on the rock to the right of a cascade of grass. The belay is at the top of the grass on a nice grassy ledge.

3. Traverse right for a couple of meters, then head straight up, clipping one bolt on the way. Belay in a black scoop.

4. Head up tending slightly leftwards. The rock isn't so good on this pitch but bolts protects the worst parts (still runout).

5. Traverse a bit right, then up and a bit more right to clip a bolt. Then head straight up, one more bolt. Aim between two grassy ledges, clipping one bolt. The left ledge has a palm tree sticking out, that's where the belay is.

6. Head straight up to the small steepening at the top of the slab. Clip one bolt below the steepening, then traverse right to a large cave above a big palm tree.

7. Belay on roots (no bolts) to traverse right and up out of the cave. Final belay on a tree.

Variation: A thrilling finish heading directly up the tree roots to the roof overhang above the large cave was climbed by Peter Naituli and Ian Lekiluai on the 3rd ascent (17th March 2022).

Access: you can abseil from the top, or walk to the bottom of the route. Walking, get to the bottom of the cliff, then stay low while you aim for the big rock with orange overhangs separated from the main wall. Walk around that wall and find a way up (some scramble might be needed). There's a small flat spot on top of some white rocks to camp. Abseil: walk to the end of the tourist path, then walk along the cliff to a boulder tucked inside a forest. Follow a rough trail down. You can ask MCK for a GPS track. Find your way into the cave, then get to the first belay and abseil down the route (two 60m ropes needed), it's more or less straight but easy to miss a belay.

Downstream of Short Gully is a buttress that projects out to the stream. The climb starts at the right hand edge of the projecting face that reaches into the stream. There is a thin (20cm) tall three growing right next to the arete, rubbing against it a few meters higher.

1. [13] 15m

   Easily climb up the face just left of the arete. (Protection is not great here - wrap a sling around the tree). Climb into corner above the tree and continue up to the eye-hole belay.

2. 25m (15) From the eye hole, continue up on sloping face tending right. Traverse 1m right just above roof. Continue up on good holds tending slight left. Move left into corner (crux) and continue a few meters higher. Traverse left and around the corner with fingers in good crimpy rail and feet just above the roof. Continue up on sloping face tending right and climb out just above the overhangs.

The climb is usually done in one pitch but communication is difficult over the noise of the stream from the top. The eye-hole belay is small and uncomfortable for more than one 2nd.

The short crack 3m right of 'Recovery Room' corner.

Climb the line immediately to the right of 'Bonni's Head'. This line shares the anchors with the previous route.

This is the left-hand route on the south face. Start directly below the first bolt. Pull up through a bulge onto a ledge. Using the rock on the left reduces the grade significantly.

Sit-start and climb the arête.

This climb starts 1m to the left of 'Donkerhoek Recess'. The climb is marked by a crack running through the overhang to the face above.

1. [15] 30m Starting 1m to the left of 'Donkerhoek Recess', climb diagonally left, past a small tree to a small stance below an overhang with a crack cutting through it. Climb the crack and pull through the overhang. Climb the face above for 20m exiting slightly left of an overhang.

1. 15 20m:

   From the top of a rectangular block, climb straight up to the open book and all the way up till reach the roof. Climb 2m right until able to pull through and belay from a big ledge.

2. 13 20m:

   . Walk around 8 meters left and then up to the right of a big chimney. Climb the face around 4 meters right of the chimney where there is a small cairn. Climb up and slightly left to a layback crack and then go diagonally right and left again to the top of a small block. Climb the face straight up and belay from a small ledge.

3. 12 15m:

   Climb up and right until squeezed underneath a large block. Climb to the left and up to the top of the huge block with amazing views of the ocean and mountains.

4. 11 15m:

   Climb easily straight up to a big ledge. Scrambling leads to the top.

15 using the open book. 17 using the thin face on the right without the left corner.

Easiest route at the crag. Almost directly below the rap point.

The next two climbs can be run together as a 31m outing. A 60m rope will allow an average-weight climber to get down on rope stretch. Tie a knot in the end of the rope just in case!

Lower tier, starting at a shield-shaped bulge just left of the middle of the main face. Climb up and over the bulge into a small recess and easier climbing. Scramble to anchors.

Start at the very base of slab at small bush some feet right of boulder. Climb centre of 3m nose and 8m slab above to vertical wall. Traverse left and climb directly into groove above. Up groove to prominent horizontal crack. Move left onto wall and climb to fig tree belay.

This climb ascends he attractive scooped face to the left of Dooms Face. It provides exposed and delicate climbing. The name of the climb is associated with the swastikas painted on the face. Climb easily to the ledge below the face, above bushes. Traverse right above the overhang and up to small overhanging open book. Traverse to the left and on to the top.

Probably worth doing if for no other reason than the rare pleasure of climbing a crack at Lukenya. At the left end of Upper Cliffs is a dark bay. The Lizard takes the line up the corner, and immediately left of the bay is a steep wall with an overhang at 4.5m. Left of this is a thin crack. Ascend crack on finger-locks for 10m, then easily up arete to abseil cable.

Climb the arete to top out.

Permadraws at anchor

Start in crack behind clump of trees where there is a thick grey tree root.

1. 12m. Climb crack 4m and move right onto wall and to platform. Move left across crack to wall with good holds and climb into sentry box. Belay to column on right.

2. 17m. Ascend back of sentry box until a prominent crack, slightly right is reached. Climb this and move left-handed across wall leading to small bush. 4.5m leads to boulder for belay. Alternate finish by traversing left from top of back of sentry box to fig tree.

1. [12] 30m

2. [15] 22m

3. Dassie crawl

4. [14] 12m

5. [14] 6m

6. [15] 30m

7. [14] 6m

8. [15] 10m