Routes in Africa for selected grade

Sit start with an awkward left hand gaston edge and a shallow right hand pinch. Use bad feet to make a big reach up and left to a sloping edge. From there climb the arete and top out. The sit is the most natural start, but you can stand start on the same holds in a lieback with a high foot for a V5, or start one move in at the sloping edge for a V3. This problem is on the obvious steep blunt arete on the left of the two adjacent boulders when facing them from the trailhead

Start a few meters right of Slaughterhouse 5. pre-clip 2nd draw to avoid awakward fall under the roof.

Solo up the left streak.

This route has it's hand up for best line in the cave. It's definitely got some of everything. If you can climb this grade, you should definitely get on this.

Crux pitch can be aided on #3 cam, bringing grade down to 23, A1

Start as for Wolfgang, and then follow the line of bolts and seam up the wall to the anchor. Some trad gear is also required to protect the route.

Start with left hand on undercling, boulder up and right then do a long move up to crimp and climb up to ledge. Climb the overhang wall, first on good holds then some dynamic final moves to finish.

Start in the easy dihedral and climb out left. Big dyno to a jug in the roof and top-out

Start as for Bloody Mary but climb out right with a difficult mantle. You can walk down through a small gulley / valley on the left side of the rock.

The second should have a back rope for the first 9m. At the right-hand end of Upper Cliffs is a prominent chimney. This superb technical route starts just left of this feature, below a slab, Gain slab easily and traverse left to corner (bolt). Swing around left edge and ascend face above (crux). On up steep rock (bolt), to a final belay bolt. Up easily to top or abseil off bolt.

7c crux, 7a obligatory

See here: http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200029800/Africa-Kenya-Ndoto-Mountains-Poi-East-Face-True-At-First-Light Downgrade proposed by Slovenian team that made the second ascent in 2003, to 7C: http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP03/climbing-note-jeran

The very thin crack that is right of trader Vic's as you enter the gorge. Climb up on tiny holds and tiny wires (preplaced for fa) to arête then easier ground to top

Climb the second thin crack and wall to the left finishing up easy ramp. Was done with preplaced long runner.

From sentry box climb crack and wall to left following diagonal seam left over bulge. Up into hanging corner and traverse right onto head wall following crack. Up to shared anchors

The direct start to A Sudden Loss of Cabin Pressure.

Belay from ledge. Climb up right to large rail then diagonally left along crack / rail and then climb straight up the headwall.

Superb climbing with an airy finish

Climb either the first pitch of Daddy Long Legs or Redback to reach the peg stance.

From the left side of the peg stance, climb straight up for about 8 meters to gain a rail under a small overlap. Climb past a rather useful pocket and pull through the next overlap (just left of Redback anchor) to another rail. Place good gear in this rail below the vertical seam on the headwall. Gain this seam boldly (but safely) from the left and follow it to the anchor for Daddy Long Legs. A 0.4 camalot is useful for the last section.

Belay from ledge. Climb up right to ledge then move right and climb up slightly left to large rail and continue straight up the headwall.

Climb the roof crack

Climbs the beautiful white face between David And Goliath and Uber Huber left of the Africa Crag nose. From the left end of the Upper Africa Ledge, traverse under the Africa Crag nose, climb up 6m to a ledge, and walk left to where the ledge becomes a crawl under a low roof.

1. 30m (29) Start at the left end of the ledge where one can still stand upright. Climb the shallow corner tending slightly left as it steepens. Head towards the obvious, thin crack through the widely spaced rails above. Climb this and continue up another 5m to a hanging belay at the big rail below the narrow roof at the same level as the huge roof to the right. Probably a couple of grades easier if one is tall enough but this still awaits confirmation.

2. 20m (26) Start up a short, vertical crack to a big undercling. Move right to a good layback hold and then up past a couple of flakes and a rail to another rail at a small roof. Traverse left to the arete. Do a couple of moves up to a peg (shared with David And Goliath) and then left to a hanging stance at the base of the big roof flake of Africa Bust Up.

3. 40m (17) Finish by doing the top of Africa Bust Up. Climb the flake through the roof and up to a big ledge (optional stance). Continue up and right through some vegetated terrain to a huge ledge from where one can scramble to the top.

Closed project.

Turn right at the second bolt of A Bronx Tale and continues until the intersection with The Baseball Bat Treatment, finishing with the latter's crux.

The blank wall left of the leaning pillar. Hard start then a tricky traverse to the left.

Very height dependent

Nice crux at the 2nd bolt, then sustained 7a to the belay.

Climb Ben Dover bottom crux up to the rail (4th draw) and then move right onto Monkey Pump. Fun climbing

SA‟s most famous sport climb. It offers superb endurance climbing and requires plenty of finesse. It is on every visitors ticklist and is starting to become very well used. Please brush the holds when you are done.

Breaks through the roof 20m right of 'Urisk the Rustic Brownie'.

No hard crux, but a very sustained section. Caution, a 60 meters rope is just enough.

Starts just right of the arête from a great ledge. Involves a long dyno and a very fingery headwall. An awesome climb in an awesome place.

Open project. Could be 7b after a good clean.

The last line in the kloof on the overhanging side.

Composite route. Climb Virus up to the big pocket in the middle of the big roof. Move left onto Cape Fear, and further left doing the big move to the lip on Stolen Secrets. Stay under the lip and cross over Broken to a new bolt at the left end of the roof. Pull onto the headwall and climb to the chains of Sweet Prow of Mine.

The kloof's classic line. A pumper all the way to the chains.

Got to be extra strong for this one. First pitch is a 23, there is a bit of everything to get to the anchor, climb it efficiently. Second pitch, mske your way to the roof move right over the cracks up and over to the anchor. First pitch has been open, second pitch haven't been open at the moment.

from picture

Sit-start with flake, climb up right and finish up the high crack. This route was bolted by someone after the FA (boulder problem at 7a+).

Ontop of the grassy ramp. Slightly overhanging broken crack system with a karate chop signature movement NEEDS REBOLTING.

Composite route.

Starts at a base under a jagged three step roof with three bolts of super sequential powerful climbing into six bolts of very sequential technical climbing. The falls are cleaner the harder you try, don't shout "take", just wip. MCSA/Boven Fund hardware.

Climb mono to kneebar then traverse left and end on gift of wings

Composite route. Do Bigfoot and continue up Paws. At the last bolt on Paws head right through the top of Mama Africa past the chains of Sid Vicious to the top of The Quickening.

Video

Climb mono direct and end on the chains of all that glitters is gold.

Vincent Terisse et un jeune Réunionais avait équipé une petite longueur, surtout pour y faire des photos. J'imagine qu'on devrait pouvoir continuer dans le 7+.

Breaks out left at the top of Paws.

📹 FA

Video

Video: Matthew Hill

Think I agree with initial consensus of 29. Contender for best at this grade I've done in the cape. Quite brutal yet delicate 7A-ish start to a good rest, followed by some pumpy monkey business and another desperate mid crux. Then some fun throws to a final delicate slab crux right below the chains. Although tempting, I stuck left at the end as per bolter's intention, avoiding the cop-out jug exit. Thanks to Pete for having an eye for this truly unique future classic - Robin Klintworth (FA)

Video

Hard pinchy power endurance.

Start on a big block and climb a cruxy 4 bolts over a bulge. Continue up the bolt line to the anchors. Low in the grade.

Abseil notes:

Abseil via the same route. You can also walk down the 'Lemur Wall' ridge. See route diagram (link below) for more info!

Recommended equipment:

• 14 quickdraws
• 2x 60m ropes

Pitches info:

1. 30m (7 bolts)

2. 55m (13 bolts)

3. 50m (13 bolts)

4. 30m (6 bolts)

5. 40m (11 bolts)

6. 50m (13 bolts)

Route diagram:

AILEDESCIMES - King Lui

Other notes:

Very well equipped.

Closed Project - IP - In Progress stay off

Easy climbing to a break followed by a spectacular dynamic move. Hard to the chains.

Halfway down the standard scramble, look left. The route pulls straight up the middle of the face on the leaning free-standing boulder. Move right at the slopey side pull to a jug out right by means of one really hard iron cross, no feet, go and believe move.

Extension of Burning Chrome

Starts on Keep Walking Johnny, then busts out left after Johnies crux to an arete. The line then joins Black Out for its last 3 bolts and ends on Black Out.