West Face Mostly Trad climbing 18 routes in area

A route with a rich history! First soloed (!) by Scott Camps, then accidentally partly retro-bolted (See also The Runnel of Love)

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/five-new-pitches-at-gibraltar-rock/ https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/new-route-at-peak-head/

A route surrounded by controversy as to whether it constituted a retro bolting of the top half of "Woo Woo Woo". The retrobolted section of woo woo woo was chopped, making runnel of love obsolete. The remaining bolts shouldn't be trusted. A good one to top rope! Still some very interesting insights into climbing ethics:

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/five-new-pitches-at-gibraltar-rock/ https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/new-route-at-peak-head/

"Excellent face climbing on thin edges. Start 4m left of the Lizard of Oz at the base of the large tapered runnel at the left end of the west face. Climb the left edge of runnel past nine bolts (fixed hangers) to a dbb. Tim Ball and Ryan ?? Oct 2012"

Start at 5m high split block for two pitch adventure. Bolts require hangers Pitch 1 50m: up split and follow quartz vein past two bolts to left trending groove. Follow groove to a small hole followed by easier climbing to double bolt belay. Pitch 2: Scramble to top.

• DIAGONAL CRACK (65m, 18) This climbs follows the left-trending diagonal crack from its very beginning at the start of “White Witches on a Cross” to its end, then finishes straight up “Skysurfer”. Mostly good fun, with some slight awkwardness. (i) 25m, 16 Up the ramp/crack to belay on the bolt of “Layers of Grooviness” located 2m above the ramp (fixed hanger). (ii) 40m, 18 Continue up the ramp to its left end (gr.16), #1 Camalot is essential here, then up past 2 bolts of “Skysurfer” to belay on the 3rd bolt you come across. (iii) Scramble for 20m to top and sling rope around boulder for belay. No new bolts were placed. Bring single set of cams up to #4 Camalot. FA: Ross Weiter, Pete Thomas, 18 April 2014.

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/the-most-obvious-line-at-west-face-of-peak-head-falls-to-perth-raiders/

A bold climb with long runouts and big reaches. Goes up middle of west face. Bolts require hangers.

Pitch 1 (22) 23m: Climb obvious left trending crack, climbing past small cave to large bulge. Clip bolt and follow flakes to next bolt and crux to belay ledge (needs nuts and cams).

Pitch 2 (19) 20m: 10 m runout from belay to 'dinnerplate flake'. Pull up to bolt to double bolt belay (needs hangers).

Pitch 3 (7) 27m: Scramble to summit

Regarded as one of the best crack pitches in WA, good value at the grade.

Pitch 1 (18) 33m: Up short crack to horizontal break. Enter finger crack and enjoy the climb to the belay ledge.

Pitch 2 (16) 23m: Up short corner to easy ramp to block and belay on right below the summit dome.

Pitch 3 (15) 40m: Committing slab climbing protected by small wires up to summit

Between Baylec Direct and Albatross, there is a chimney area with two ugly looking corner cracks. Climb the right crack up to some nice jams, and continue to where it gets narrow and crosses left to first belay anchors of Baylec Direct. Gobbles up medium cams.

Fantastic climbing on great rock in a great position. Originally climbed by A. Roilo and K. Bennet in 1992 using the aid of a knotted static rope for protection! Freed by Aikman and Truscott in 1998, sans bolts. Bolts added in 2010.

(1) 20m 19: Start up right trending crack as for Albatross, then after 3m climb vertical crack. Continue past 2 bolts and belay of gear on right end of ledge. (2) 20m 20: Up short crack above belay, then step left into another crack and climb right leading ramp. Continue up headwall past 4 RB's, over overlap to belay on on blocky ledge (same as Albatross). (3) 40m 15: Same as Albatross

One of the best routes in WA for its grade.

Pitch 1 (14) 42m: Bridge out right from edge of terrace into ramp/crack system. Climb blank wall to ledge and continue up to a sloping belay ledge.

Pitch 2 (13) 23m: Continue up cracks and layback the left most crack to an off-width chimney that goes up to pinnacle belay (shared belay for Baylec Direct).

Pitch 3 (15) 40m: Finish as Baylac Direct.

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/new-routes-gibraltar-rock/

On the 7th of August 2013, Tim ball and jodie hamilton made the first ascent of a classic slab/arête on the wall below the start of baylac and lucifers dream. Good anchor in a small horizontal on the big ledge, then rap straight down the arête at western end to a Hanging DBB on the edge of a large roof jutting out over the top of stirling terrace. Need hangers. Climb carefully out of belay up arête, crux is around the first bolt, then on past three more bolts back to ledge. GIB require large hangers to fit.