Nodes in Bluff Major West Face

The wall that overlooks Central Gully. It faces a lot more south than it does west, making it one of the best hot day options at Arapiles, but the confusing convention of calling it the west face just won't die.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Bluffs Area

A pretty awesome bit of rock which sees no action since a bolt pulled out. Start 1.5m R of Missing Link and 5m L of Station to Station. The bolt has been replaced, but is within reach of a long stick clip, otherwise the first gear is a fair way off the ground.

The steep arête right of Missing Link following four bolts up and right before joining the finish of The Prow. Start 3m left of Station to Station at the U Bolt.

Start as for StS. As for StS to the break then up the arete, making sure your photographer is ready for when you whip.

Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit. https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/-/media/project/pv/main/parks/documents/management-plans/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park---aboriginal-cultural-heritage-protections---october-2020.pdf

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive).

Start 2m L of Thunder Crack. Up to strenno corner (2 FHs), then R onto ledge shared with TC. Up past FH, traverse L to crack and up it, then L and up face past FH.

Start as for Station to Station. Up StS until it heads to the arete then move R and up past 3 more bolts to loweroffs.

Straightens out the top section of the original by staying L of the last bolt, making it much better.

The obvious main crack on the L side of the S face of Bluff Major. Wander up the crack to the top. It’s possible to head L to the anchor of FD if you want to lower off, otherwise top out.

Start just R of Thunder Crack. Groove past bolt to stance. Move R to next bolt then go up until you're under the roof. Now go 8m R and down a bit to a rap station. Old schoolers can top out, everyone else can take the easy option and rap off. The rap rings are starting to age out (as of 2023).

Up Despatched to its first traverse (2nd FH). From here, traverse R all the way to Bulger. Take heaps of RPs.

Start at the base of Thunder Crack. Traverse R along the major break to Bulger.

Start 4m R of, and 8m down from, D. Bring brackets. Slim groove with BR, then L onto ledge. Now over roof (BR) and follow faint groove up R to next roof (BR), and then join Despatched. Mix of rings and carrot bolts

As for TYOLD when you get to the dispatched traverse instead of following that bast up through more steepness. (Closed project)

The unclimbed line of bolts. It looks like Veneer has cleaned up the first 15m of this as there are no other bolts between TYOLD and V. But this old line might also include another bolt up higher … clarification welcome.

Start 3m left of Unrequited. Climb the face left of Unrequited passing three bolts before gaining that route a few moves before it escapes right. Step left and boulder the short wall above passing a final high bolt.

Start 15m down R of Thunder Crack. Crack to pocket, R to jug, up to break and lower-offs. The pro is not great.

Start at the top of Unrequited. Straight up the awesome headwall past bolts, to the Despatched lower-off.

Start just R of Unrequited. A more fingery version of Slopin' Sleazin' perhaps?

Link Required into Requited.

Start 5m R of Unrequited. Bouldery past the bolt.

Some of the bolts on the last pitch are starting to show their age.

1. 30m (23) Up Recent Theft to its bolt then step R and up runout face. Belay at stance just L of the start of Bulger P2.

2. 30m (25) Up past 3 fixed hangers to technical corner then a good rest on the R. Step back left to 4th fixed hanger, and go straight up, before going left onto the airy arete. The bit past the last bolt is the path taken by Lust in the Dust.

Not worth cluttering up this guide except to note it’s almost entirely borrowed from routes established decades earlier. See the FA notes if you want all the gory details.

Start down R from Recent Theft.

1. 30m (13) Short wall to ledge, and step R. The next section, up the peapod corner and then some face moves rightwards, is great. Easy ground leads 15m up and left to a large ledge. This pitch is actually borrowed from Lock-Up; Bulger originally started further up left, 5m R of Unrequited, and traversed in to climb the not-as-good rambly pedestal.

2. 30m (15) The steep corner crack, with airy hand jamming.

Lust in the Lichen could be considered a more fitting name.

Climb Bulger pitch 2 for 6m then move L to rusty FH (the fourth bolt of Lust). From here go straight up, then step left to join the arête. It's tempting to traverse 3m left from the bolt on much cleaner rock but this is significantly harder than grade 20 and tends to lead you into Despatched pitch 2 rather than onto the arête.

Start 4m R of B. The steep weakness with a desperate exit.

As for The Keyhole then take the steep crack 3m L of The Keyhole. Once in the alcove above, take the steep juggy R wall.

Start at the top of Dire Straights. You need a cairn to start - if you must do this make sure you don't send rocks off the edge onto others below.

Start about 50m uphill from John's Pinnacle, under the obvious cleft in the south face of the Bluffs which divides Bluff Major and Bluff Minor. Up 4m juggy wall, go R underneath roof for 5m, then thrash up the obvious slot. Exit to the north onto Blockbuster Ledge.

This is now the preferred way to do Bulger. As for The Keyhole then up pea-pod groove, then the wall to join Bulger. Finish up it.