Ascents in Bluffs

I'm trying a link-up where you start up The Prow, then go straight into the crux of Station to Station, then into the crux of Final Departure.

Is this link-up Prowling for Leftovers? Does anyone here know if this has been done before?

Best route I've been on at Arapiles and now the subject of my obsession. Crux (just after the long reach in the picture in the guide) is cool but hard. Hand jam rest after the powerful start, and no-handers on the blocks next to Thunder Crack before the crux will help, but it's still on for a long way after the crux too. Even the lichenous vertical headwall is no gimme. "Direct Finish" seems a little contrived to me (seems more like a LHV) given the route basically tracks 2-3m left of TC ...

For the first time in 20 years, I left a leaver-biner behind. That's okay though because I left the ground knowing I'd probably do that. Whoever get's my red w/yellow gate leaver-biner, treat her right she has been with me through thick and thin, faithfully holding my shoes to the back of my harness. Great route - thought I'd gotten through the crux at the balancey bit up high but there was another harder crux immediately afterwards which I couldn't do this time. Nice route though!

Super proud line. Defo well hard for 27, more like 28.

Tricky start, then rad jug hauling to a sustained V6 ish section near the top. Terribly bolted but nothing some long draws can't fix.

Hard, gotta come back

Quick burn to suss the moves. All feels doable but that crux is gonna require some oomf

What a serene parable of a climb. Didn’t even think something of this level was possible after 3 months laid off with injury. Looked across at the line from the bath atop Clytemnestra just as the sun struck it this morning, visualised the moves and thought “that’s going today”. And go it did. Perhaps the most ataraxic climb I’ve ever done. What an experience. What a route. What a place

Unreal. Felt like a proper quest in the dark. Didn’t get to the top.

A fairly outrageous looking line, especially when i had a look while rapping down. Quite happy that i got to the crux clean on toprope, but i predictably got completely shut down at the crux. What a combo of reachy moves, tension, body position and a bunch of shit holds. The sequence felt great to work through - got most of the moves individually and the rest were cut short by the impending rain. Would be an absolute pumpfest getting through the crux and then the sustained finish too.

A mega classic! Quite tough for 27 I think. It has an outrageous crux sequence, with some wild pinchey, crimpy, underclingy moves. Then into quite sustained climbing up the top.

So stoked to have ticked this beast of a climb today! ^_^

Beta Vid: 👉 https://youtu.be/lyI97ry-Pa4

Cleaning Lucas's gear felt like an anti-climax after his send, but a great opportunity to get the beta (thank-you !) while it was nice and fresh.

Maybe 24/25 up to the start of the crux sequence then a nails V6 ? for 7 (hand) moves on shit holds with a lot of body tension before a lovely but completely blowable finish.

I could imagine getting to the crux clean - possibly even next shot - but then failing at various points for the next 50 or so attempts before quitting climbing. Maybe I'll change my mind as I try it more, but for now, this feels sandbagged to the extreme.

Pretty chill for the first part, then it gets HARD. Didn’t put the crux together, not sure if I’ll try again this trip or not

Keen to get back and and work this crux. The climbing up to it is beautiful

What a ripper. Mega quest up an imposing wall with a bouldery crux. 3rd shot.

One of my favourites, full package for sure. 3rd Shot.

Inspiring climbing

This climb was hard. I can’t fathom how Kim gave this 27 and Masada 29. I’d switch them, but what would I know?

So epic! Can see this going next session, just gotta dial the crux in more! Can see it feeling like low-end 28 from the ground, keen to get back on it!

What do I do in the crux beta pleae😅

A bad warm up. One very unsuccessful go in the dark two years ago that didn’t get to the top, one go two days ago, and one go today. Adrian sent Punks so I couldn’t not do it. Quality peanut gallery support from Dad who arrived just in time for the send.

Last go, last day, last light kinda thing..

With Ed, Dodgy gear

direct start hard, love the retrobolt

The guidebook says that it is atmospheric. We will now take it to mean runout!

Spider filled holds and solid runouts! Pretty serious judgement day style traversing in ground fall zone getting to the bolt on the arete. This one gets an R rating from me.

needs an R rating!

Sat once at second bolt. Then clean to top. 5 bolts plus an old carrot and a piton. Not really any other useful gear but the harder climbing is off the bolts. Sweet stuff.

Multiple falls with skin on fingertips lost at the bottom as I started too far right!