Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sun 19th May 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | |||||||
18 | ★★★ Entertainer - with Robert Varno | 20m | |||||
19 | ★★ Sideshow - with Robert Varno | 35m | |||||
19 | ★★ Sideshow - with Rak | 35m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Not as spooky as Entertainer, but still committing in sections! Rushed to get down, following some drops of rain halfway up!
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18 | ★★★ Entertainer - with Rak | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Classic Arapiles-ian bulges! Spooky, pumpy climbing somewhat reminiscent of Morfydd. Slightly eases up after trusting my feet more, and finishes with a cool roof sequence!
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19 | ★★ Sideshow - with John Capretta | 35m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Tue 14th May 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | |||||||
18 | ★★★ Entertainer - with Nil | 20m | |||||
19 | Gear on ★★ Sideshow - with Nil | 35m | |||||
Tue 14th May 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Hum Terrace | |||||||
20 | ★★ Down and Out - with Nil | 25m | |||||
Mon 13th May 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North PB Gully | |||||||
23 | ★★ PB | 23m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sat 11th May 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Hum Terrace | |||||||
20 | ★★ Down and Out - with Johnny Sullivan | 25m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Epic!
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Sat 11th May 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | |||||||
18 Hard | ★★★ Entertainer - with Johnny Sullivan | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
19 | ★★ Sideshow - with Johnny Sullivan | 35m | |||||
Good line but Entertainer is definitely better (and a bit harder imo)
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Sun 5th May 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | |||||||
21 | ★★★ Comic Relief | 20m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Had some essential gear beta which made the start feel fine. After that, what a lovely quest through some varied terrain and bomber gear! One of the best.
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19 | ★★ Sideshow | 35m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Way less sustained than Entertainer, but the moves on this are way better! Super super fun.
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Sun 28th Apr 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Hum Terrace | |||||||
20 | ★★ Down and Out | 25m | |||||
Sun 28th Apr 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | |||||||
19 | ★★ Sideshow | 35m | |||||
18 | ★★★ Entertainer | 20m | |||||
21 | ★★ Round Up - with Daniel Toone | 30m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
21 | ★ Cut Short - with Daniel Toone | 30m | ★ Good | ||||
19 | ★★ Sideshow - with Daniel Toone | 35m | |||||
15 R | ★ The Joker - with Daniel Toone | 25m, 1 | |||||
On dans gear
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Sat 27th Apr 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Hum Terrace | |||||||
16 | ★ Hum - with Bill Buckley, Tim Billington | 30m | ★ Good | ||||
Not a well protected start off the ground and a hard to read on-sight crux for a 16. Glad I was using Paul's pre-placed gear.
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17 | ★★ The Second Affinity - with Bill Buckley | 22m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Great climbing.
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9 | ★ Menagerie - with Peter Edwards, Tim Billington | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
Well worthwhile.
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9 | ★ Munchkin - with Peter Edwards, Tim Billington | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
Really nice moves off the deck.
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Sat 27th Apr 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | |||||||
21 | ★★★ Comic Relief - with james ritchie | 20m | |||||
This line flows beautifully. Quite cruxy off the deck though.
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19 | ★★ Sideshow - with james ritchie | 35m | |||||
Very good
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21 | ★★ Round Up - with james ritchie | 30m | |||||
Very good
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18 | ★★★ Entertainer - with james ritchie | 20m | |||||
Very good. Took the line through the bulge/roof, which had better holds than appears from underneath.
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21 | ★ Cut Short - with Mitch Slocombe | 30m | |||||
21 | ★★ Round Up - with Mitch Slocombe | 30m | |||||
15 R | ★ The Joker - with Mitch Slocombe | 25m, 1 | |||||
21 | ★★★ Comic Relief - with Jeh C | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Great moves!
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21 | ★★ Round Up - with Jeh C | 30m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
18 | ★★★ Entertainer - with Jeh C | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Onsight 1st attempt on someone's pre placed gear.
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19 | ★★ Sideshow - with Jeh C | 35m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Onsight 1st attempt on someone's pre placed gear.
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Thu 25th Apr 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | |||||||
21 | ★★★ Comic Relief - with Campbell Davies | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Did it again to do the final face climb correctly, and had the scariest traverse to the right of my life. Ended up hanging onto the wall with only an opposed knee press and heel/toe, desperately questing for any handholds. Found a terrible crimp blindly and sent the rest of the climb.
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21 | ★★★ Comic Relief - with Campbell Davies | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Absolutely stoked with this onsight, first real grade 21 onsight for me. The start is actually pretty easy if you're comfortable at grade 21, but the consequences for hubris are high here. It felt like there were three real onsight cruxes: each of the two left facing bulges in the first half of the climb, and then the traverse to the right afterwards. It took me ages to figure out the bulges, downclimbing to rest on better holds repeatedly while working out the sequences. I also got lost on the second half of the climb and went left to Round Up instead of right, finishing on a balancing act on the thin ledge at the top to get back to the Comic Relief chains.
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19 | ★★ Sideshow - with Campbell Davies | 35m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Very cool moves, good pro.
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18 ~19 | ★★★ Entertainer - with Campbell Davies | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Felt hard and scary, really shook my confidence, but the day went well in the end. Hard to be sure what the grade is from an onsight though. Went straight through the roof/mantle which was also pretty nerve racking.
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Tue 23rd Apr 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | |||||||
19 | ★★ Sideshow - with Aurora Pandora | 35m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
18 | ★★★ Entertainer - with Aurora Pandora | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
19 | ★★ Sideshow - with Ash Garrett | 35m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
18 | ★★★ Entertainer - with Ash Garrett | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Full on battle to redeem myself from my last attempt. Still found it very pumpy and committing, so stoked about the send!
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Sun 21st Apr 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Vandal Area | |||||||
18 |
★★ Sweet Surrender
- with
AJ
2
lead by
AJ
A bit easier than it looks from below, and rather nice. | 60m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
17 |
★★ Vandal
- with
AJ
1
15m
lead by
AJ
Quite stiff off the deck.
3
15m
lead by
AJ
My calves! | 45m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Thu 18th Apr 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | |||||||
18 | ★★★ Entertainer | 20m | |||||
21 | ★★★ Comic Relief | 20m | |||||
Wed 10th Apr 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Werewolf Area | |||||||
20 | ★★ Werewolf | 24m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Wed 10th Apr 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | |||||||
18 | ★★★ Entertainer | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sat 6th Apr 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | |||||||
18 | ★★★ Entertainer | 20m | |||||
Full value entertainment whip on the direct finish.
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19 | ★★ Sideshow | 35m | |||||
Fri 5th Apr 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Hum Terrace | |||||||
17 | ★★ The Second Affinity - with Will Grant | 22m | ★ Good | ||||
Heady crux.
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Fri 5th Apr 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | |||||||
19 ~18 | ★★ Sideshow - with Will Grant | 35m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Loved it. Cool movement and great gear. Easier than Entertainer.
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Wed 3rd Apr 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | |||||||
18 | ★★★ Entertainer - with Chris Speer, Alex Lawson | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Such impeccable movent all the way. The ledge just before the top detracts slightly, but oh such nice climbing. Really, really quality. Went direct through the bum crack rather than around.
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Wed 3rd Apr 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Hum Terrace | |||||||
17 | ★★ The Second Affinity - with Chris Speer, Alex Lawson | 22m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Bit heady, nice climbing. The fossilised bird poo in the cave is pretty interesting
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Mon 1st Apr 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North PB Gully | |||||||
19 | ★ Tangent | 20m | |||||
23 | ★★ PB | 23m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Great hidden gem
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19 | ★ Tangent | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
23 ~22 | ★★ PB | 23m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Really nice climbing, good gear in the seam before the crux.
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Sat 23rd Mar 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Hum Terrace | |||||||
17 | ★★ The Second Affinity - with Sumaya | 22m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Really quite good. Excellent gear when you need it.
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9 | ★ Munchkin - with Sumaya | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
Nice enough.
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16 | ★ Waddy Mackenzie - with Sumaya | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
Double rack of cams would be nice but not necessary.
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Mon 4th Mar 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Vandal Area | |||||||
17 |
★★ Vandal
1
15m
2
15m
3
15m
| 45m | |||||
Mon 29th Jan 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | |||||||
21 | ★★★ Comic Relief | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Mon 1st Jan 2024 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | |||||||
21 | ★★★ Comic Relief - with Will Kluck, T-R Climbs | 20m | |||||
Bloody pumpy, and freaky at the start. Struggled to place my first piece, fought to the roof where it seems to be a finger crack. Had a rest, found some good hands and charged to the top. Right before the anchors I struggled on the balancy move with thin gear placed (my fault) and managed to get the top. This was a battle, but it was a ton of fun
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21 | ★★★ Comic Relief - with Thomas Zambon | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sun 31st Dec 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Winterset Wall | |||||||
25 Easy | ★★★ The Reckoning — 3 attempts - with Anthony Cuskelly | 20m, 2 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
A cheeky trad 25(?) to close the year out. 2 tie ins for beta, 3 to send (a low percentage body wiggle crux).
Feel like there isn’t really a difference in difficulty here with pre placed gear… and cleaning the roof between attempts would be a pain in the arse. Happy to walk away with a pink point and a giant crack gobie as a prize. Very cool roof trench with minimal off widthing! |
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Sat 30th Dec 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Winterset Wall | |||||||
25 Easy | ★★★ The Reckoning — 2 attempts - with Anthony Cuskelly | 20m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Solved all beta 2nd tie in and then climbed crux clean from bolt through to top jugs.
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Thu 14th Dec 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | |||||||
21 | ★★★ Comic Relief - with jonah ovadia | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Really quite excellent. Fun moves with nice gear except for the start. Keen to lead it
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21 | ★★★ Comic Relief - with Otto K | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Epic. Top roped it a couple times till the bottom didnt feel so dangerous
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18 Hard | ★★★ Entertainer - with Otto K | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
So great. A bit stiff, but not crazy. Got lost about halfway up and made things harder for myself by reaching for some heinous slopers
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Sat 14th Oct 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | |||||||
19 | ★★ Sideshow - with Melissa | 35m | |||||
nice climb, not very sure whats the right way to go at the top.
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18 | ★★★ Entertainer - with Melissa | 20m | |||||
hardest grade i have onsighted in trad so far i believe. very entertaining climb. happy to have finally started to look for starred climbs.
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Tue 10th Oct 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | |||||||
19 | ★★ Sideshow - with AJ | 35m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
All went pretty well, spaced the gear out a bit but would be clean falls. Technical footwork between good finger locks in general. Stepped left to arete rest at top and thought this can't be it, stepped back right and seems I took direct finish. 19 for that but standard finish would make it 18 I think. We are done. Back to camp, took a pratfall in slippery jandals with back landing across tree root. Rest day now please, maybe 2.
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18 Hard | ★★★ Entertainer - with AJ | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Quite the onsight fight for AJ. An epic 2 minute bout of swearing and gibbering under the roof could only be answered by "roger that". The finish through the bulge was taken.
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15 R | ★ The Joker - with AJ | 25m, 1 | ★ Good | ||||
Enjoyable warmup with some thoughtful moves. Why the R rating? There might be gear near the bolt but it might be shit. Both a bit wrecked but last day for AJ.
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Mon 9th Oct 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | |||||||
21 | ★★★ Comic Relief | 20m | |||||
18 | ★★★ Entertainer | 20m | |||||
19 | ★★ Sideshow | 35m | |||||
Mon 9th Oct 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Vandal Area | |||||||
17 | ★★ Vandal | 45m | |||||
Sun 8th Oct 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Vandal Area | |||||||
17 | ★★ Vandal - with Henry Orton | 45m | ★ Good | ||||
First gear fall of the trip.
Struggled to get established on P3. Retreated because I am quite fond of my ankles and I did not like my chances of not decking. |
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Sun 8th Oct 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | |||||||
21 | ★★★ Comic Relief - with Cliff Barnett | 20m | |||||
Failed. Getting to the little RH rail was hard for me and then came off in three attempts o the move after that.
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21 | ★★★ Comic Relief - with Carl Schneider | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Top roped from round up anchor and finished up that route after getting through the bulge. Really nice climbing through several difficult sections which I didn't find too strenuous, certainly a much more serious prospect to lead though.
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18 | ★★★ Entertainer - with Cliff Barnett | 20m | |||||
TR only. Pumpy. Nice route.
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19 | ★★ Sideshow - with Cliff Barnett | 35m | |||||
I did it nicely again just on TR. Cool moves
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21 | ★★ Round Up - with Carl Schneider | 30m | ★ Good | ||||
18 | ★★★ Entertainer - with Carl Schneider | 20m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
19 | ★★ Sideshow - with Carl Schneider | 35m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
15 R | ★ The Joker - with Cliff Barnett | 25m, 1 | |||||
Cool route, a couple of grade 15 moves.
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15 R | ★ The Joker - with Carl Schneider | 25m, 1 | ★ Good | ||||
Sat 7th Oct 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | |||||||
15 ~18 |
★★ Day of Rest P1
- with
Imogen
1
| 85m | Average | ||||
Sandbag. Lowered off the first rap as intended. Half offwidth, half crack. Didn't have the greatest time though the one fist jam was good.
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18 Hard | ★★★ Entertainer - with Josh Ring | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Still a classic, and harder than I remember. Josh took a nice big whip on his first attempt!
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15 Easy | ★ Dante's Inferno - with Josh Ring, Imogen | 70m | ★ Good | ||||
Gear spaced but good when it's there on the first pitch. Rap chains at the top can be done in one 60m rap or two 30m raps. Better than you would be lead to believe.
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Sat 7th Oct 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Hum Terrace | |||||||
16 Easy | ★ Hum - with Josh Ring, Imogen | 30m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Cool one move!
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17 | ★★ The Second Affinity - with Josh Ring, Imogen | 22m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Middle (laziest) of the three.
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Sun 1st Oct 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | |||||||
18 | ★★★ Entertainer - with Lucas Low | 20m | |||||
ice cream. had time to do one last climb before the trek back home. mentally prepared for this route including all the rests and gear placements (thanks Nic & Sarah). didn't factor in that one of the rests didn't exist, and that i would be super pumped and needed to downclimb many times after placing gear. was well rewarded with the last sunset of Arapiles and an OTR soft serve (highly recommend!)
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Thu 28th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | |||||||
18 | ★★★ Entertainer - with Nicolas Di Campli, Sarah McVicker | 20m | |||||
attempted to pinkpoint the first 2/3 of the route then placed gear from the traverse to the bolts. one take from pumpiness and one take from not knowing how to protect the roof traverse. thanks to Nic & Sarah for protecting it well
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Wed 20th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | |||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | |||||||
21 | ★ Cut Short - with Nacho, Diego, Vince | 30m | |||||
21 | ★★★ Comic Relief - with Nacho, Diego, Vince | 20m |