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Ascents in Far North as various tick types by Douglas Hockly

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Showing all 61 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Quality
Tue 17th Nov 2015 - Arapiles
Far North Werewolf Area
21 Red Zinger Trad 27m Average
17 16 Full Moon Trad 85m Good
Fun multi pitch, you can finish up something at Cliche Wall for 4 pitches.

 
22 Goodbye Trad 30m Very Good
Keep traversing! Excitement plus.

 
25 Colour Scheme Trad 25m Good
Not quite as good as it looks sadly. Still good, but it looks like it's going to be great.

 
26 Tribulation Mixed trad 25m, 1 Don't Bother
Not that great

 
Tue 17th Nov 2015 - Arapiles
Far North Cliche Wall
11 Redback Trad 15m Average
20 Top Gear Trad 15m Good
19 Left, Right and Centre - with Paul Deacon Trad 15m Good
19 Left, Right and Centre - with Paul Deacon Trad 15m Good
19 Middle of the Road - with Paul Deacon Trad 15m Good
15 Knee High to a Bull Ant Trad 20m Average
Tue 17th Nov 2015 - Arapiles
Far North Hum Terrace
15 Heavy Petting Trad 20m Average
Tue 17th Nov 2015 - Arapiles
Far North Leasehold Wall
19 18 The First Affinity - with Wendy Eden Trad 24m Good
Done this starting up Humbug, which is a good pitch but a bit hard to protect up the corner and steep and pumpy on the top wall. Double ropes a good idea.

 
19 Bhutan Trad 35m Don't Bother
Tue 17th Nov 2015 - Arapiles
Far North Vandal Area
17 Swallows and Amazons - with Wendy Eden Trad 65m Don't Bother
Busted two holds off this!

 
17 Vandal Trad 45m Good
Top bit is good, the start's a bit average

 
23 Puzzlin' Evidence - with Chad Albinger Trad 25m Good
Seconded this years ago, rapping down it more recently it looks pretty thin on gear.

 
19 20 Assistance Required Trad 25m Good
OK - seems easy for 20?

 
17 18 Sweet Surrender Trad 60m Average
Mon 19th Oct 2015 - Arapiles
Far North Winterset Wall
16 Trouser Sighs Trad 25m Good
Mon 19th Oct 2015 - Arapiles
Far North Bonsai Buttress
24 Bonsai Banzai - with Martin Tatton Trad 13m Average
Looks good but not worth the bush bash

 
Mon 19th Oct 2015 - Arapiles
Far North Upper Curtain Wall
22 Day of Rest Direct Finish - with Cate Webb Trad 30m Good
Exciting crux above the gear.

 
Mon 19th Oct 2015 - Arapiles
Far North Lower Curtain Wall
21 Cut Short - with Douglas Hockly Trad 30m Don't Bother
I clearly don't like this route as much as most! Climbing's not great and the gear hard to place.

 
21 Comic Relief Trad 20m Classic
Really pumpy at the start getting the gear in. After that just pumpy! At the top go R, not straight up the corner

 
21 Round Up - with Roxanne Wells Trad 30m Good
18 Entertainer Trad 20m Very Good
I like Sideshow better. This is a little greasy.

 
19 Sideshow Trad 35m Classic
15 15 R The Joker - with Natasha Pavlin Mixed trad 25m, 1 Good
Really quite scary.

 
Mon 19th Oct 2015 - Arapiles
Far North Hum Terrace
23 High Kicks Mixed trad 13m, 1 Good
20 Stormalong Trad 32m Very Good
Very good if you enjoy that sort of thing. Second pitch goes past an amazing graveyard of small birds (peregrine feeding spot)

 
16 Hum Trad 30m Very Good
Fairly full on if you lead 16

 
18 18 R Dinger direct start Trad 25m Good
17 Dinger Trad 22m Good
16 17 The Second Affinity (Affinity) Trad 22m Good
17 High Sigh Trad 25m Very Good
Better than Affinity I reckon

 
9 Menagerie Trad 20m Average
9 Munchkin Trad 20m Good
22 Nihilism Trad 18m Good
Sun 18th Oct 2015 - Arapiles
Far North Hum Terrace
21 Four Spooner Trad 20m Good
Pumpy to place the gear.

 
19 Exodus 2.5 Direct Finish Trad 18m Good
16 Waddy Mackenzie Trad 20m Good
19 Kansas City Direct Finish Trad 18m Good
17 Lord of the Rings Variant Start Trad 20m Average
Sat 17th Oct 2015 - Arapiles
Far North Hum Terrace
20 Down and Out Trad 25m Good
I don't love this route as much as others it would seem. Gear can be fiddly if you don't spot the right placements. Rings are to the R in a little cave - easy to miss.

 
Fri 16th Oct 2015 - Arapiles
Far North Leasehold Wall
19 Bitterblue - with Wendy Eden Trad 25m Good
Really is much better than it looks! Almost worth a star, rock at start is a bit friable.

 
14 Anchors Away - with Wendy Eden Trad 35m Good
Actually ok despite appearances

 
15 Totally Stoned - with Wendy Eden Trad 36m Average
22 Fade Out - with Duncan Steel † Trad 35m Don't Bother
I really didn't like this one

 
Fri 16th Oct 2015 - Arapiles
Far North Intrepid Gully
23 Hard Snort - with Chad Albinger Mixed trad 20m, 1 Don't Bother
I didn't think this was worth a star... or even worth doing again.

 
18 Opening - with Wendy Eden Trad 20m Average
Hard for 18 and not overprotected if I remember right.

 
21 21 R Pick and Lose Trad 20m Average
25 Cliff Richards - with Paul Hoskins Mixed trad 15m, 2 Average
24 Epic Demic Trad 22m Average
A bit brittle and crimpy.

 
23 Angry Penguins - with Duncan McGregor Trad 20m Average
Went up, fugged around, got pumped, fell off, seconded Duncan.

 
Fri 16th Oct 2015 - Arapiles
Far North PB Gully
24 Angles Up - with Paul Hoskins Trad 20m Average
Thu 15th Oct 2015 - Arapiles
Far North PB Gully
23 PB - with Billy Lukin Trad 23m Very Good
A hard and scary start. These days I do Tangent and chuck in a cam on rap after the start and preclip it. A much easier start if you're tall is moving R onto the ledge and up the thin wall to the break. About 19 for me but gear is on the ledge so if you fell off it'd be an ugly fall.

 
19 Tangent - with Billy Lukin Trad 20m Average
Rock is Ok but it wanders around a lot.

 
Sun 11th Oct 2015 - Arapiles
Far North PB Gully
24 Impasse - with Nicky Sunderland Trad 20m Good
Wandery but good.Took me two days, that was when I realised I wasn't going to do all the Moorhead '81 routes in a year!

 
25 Blockade - with Gordon Poultney Trad 30m Very Good
Great climbing and great rock once you stop traversing right and left and actually go up.

 
25 Temporary Imbalance - with Paul Hoskins Trad 20m Don't Bother
Too short.

 
Sun 29th Mar 2015 - Arapiles
Far North Vandal Area
14 The Viragoes - with Wendy Eden Trad 50m Good
I thought this was good, worth a star. I didn't know that you go left to a seam in reddish rock and then back right out of the cave so I spent a fair bit of time routefinding. I know I was tired but this seemed hard for the grade - 15 or 16 maybe. Not lashings of gear either, not recommended as your first 14. Chain above The Verge.

 

Showing all 61 ascents.

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