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description
A stunning line on glorious water-washed rock. Protection is excellent despite how it may look, and huge camming devices are not essential. Take two ropes if doing the abseil. Start below the large smooth corner at the right end of the Organ Pipes.
27m (15) Sustained climbing up the corner to hard moves past the little roof into a bottomless chimney. Up to a good ledge.
23m (13) The lovely square-cut chimney. Rap off (45m) or walk up the gully to the top.
Route history
| Jun 1965 | First ascent: Peter Jackson & Bob Bull |
|---|
Warnings
Location
- Lat/Lon: -36.76087, 141.84474
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Grade citation
| 15,13 | Assigned grade |
| 14 | ★★ Arapiles, Selected Climbs |
| 14 | ★★ RockGUIDE: Victoria |
| 15 | ★★★ A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite |
| 17 [17 - 18] ++ | grAId |
ethic
Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.
Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.
Do not chip the rock.
Look after the park.
Stick to the paths.
Don't disturb the wildlife.
Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.
Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).
Seasonality
Quality
Overall quality 70 from 382 ratings.
Difficulty - 15
Based on 21 ratings.
Suggested Grade
Based on 21 ratings.
Tick Types
Comment keywords
Selected Guidebooks more Hide
Author(s): Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest
Date: 2016
ISBN: 9780987526427
This selected yet in depth guide, in its third edition in 2016, is a must for first timers or regulars to the "Pines". By Simon Mentz and Glenn Tempest. It features 1200 routes over 23 different areas as well as bouldering, history info on flora and fauna, plus heaps more.
Author(s): Gordon Poultney, Simon Carter
Date: 2013
ISBN: 9780987087461
444 of the best routes on the best stone on earth? Yes Please! Who has time for all those other wondering pitches anyway when Gordon Poultney and Simon Carter have picked out the classics and printed it in a pocket size handy guide with string attachment. You'll take it on the multipitches, you'll take it to read in the toilets, you'll take it everywhere!
Author(s): Lindorff, Goding & Hodgson
Date: 2011
ISBN: 9780646529387
Get ready to fully experience the rock climbing scene in Victoria with Sublime Climbs, a comprehensive guidebook authored by Kevin Lindorff, Josef Goding, and Jarrod Hodgson. This full-color, 380-page book covers the best climbing locations in the region, including Mt Arapiles, Mt Buffalo, and the Grampians. It features descriptions of over 700 routes, topographic maps, and breathtaking images. Whether you're a seasoned pro or new to the sport, Sublime Climbs has everything you need to make the most of your climbing experience in Victoria and experience all of it's classic routes.
Accommodations nearby more Hide
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Photos Browse all photos
Robert Lord and ThorAss on ★★ Toccata 15 - 20220329_026-1.jpg
/10/5d/105d6f43cb51ac62d0f211d8fd3a5f2789e64667)
Marco de Jongh on ★★ Toccata 15 - PXL_20210526_060100004.jpg
★★ Toccata 15 - IMG_20170225_142918.jpg
Max Lacoste on ★★ Toccata 15 - IMG_20170225_120942.jpg
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