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1 15 27m
2 13 23m

description

A stunning line on glorious water-washed rock. Protection is excellent despite how it may look, and huge camming devices are not essential. Take two ropes if doing the abseil. Start below the large smooth corner at the right end of the Organ Pipes.

  1. 27m (15) Sustained climbing up the corner to hard moves past the little roof into a bottomless chimney. Up to a good ledge.

  2. 23m (13) The lovely square-cut chimney. Rap off (45m) or walk up the gully to the top.

© (koala)

Route history

Jun 1965First ascent: Peter Jackson & Bob Bull

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: -36.76087, 141.84474

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Grade citation

15,13 Assigned grade
14 Arapiles, Selected Climbs
14 RockGUIDE: Victoria
15 ** ACA Route Register
15 A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite
17 [16 - 17] ++ grAId

ethic

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

inherited from Arapiles

Seasonality

J
F
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A
M
J
J
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D

Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 70 from 340 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 193
Flash 7
Red point 16
Tick 130
Top rope 1
Attempt 14
Target 10

Comment keywords

classy great sweet wicked exciting classic amazing good awesome cool enjoyable super lovely nice beautiful fantastic brilliant satisfying fun terrifying scary fall tricky committing desperate stuffed tough sustained tired strenuous hard sandbag crux difficult solid epic balancy interesting short adventurous dihedral jamming feet technical bridging awkward chimney face layback offwidth polished fist undercling rest smooth roof bad easy crack slippery

Activity

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