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Ascents in The Pharos by Kieran Loughran

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Showing all 19 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Quality
Wed 2nd Feb 2022 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Front Wall and West Face
17 The Shipping News - with Rox Trad 68m
Started up Hurricane Lamp Cracks. Was running first two pitches together when I encountered a death block on the traverse. Belayed early to keep control of the ropes near the block then Rox finished the short bit left of pitch, which was a bit scrubby and dirty. Rox led top pitch which had an exciting overhang which apparently looks pretty spectacular from Oceanoid. Worth doing the top pitch via The Shroud. The second pitch would have to lose its detached block to be a reasonable proposition.

 
Sun 17th Jan 2021 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Front Wall and West Face
10 Samos - with Ray Trad 110m
Good fun with little trace of previous ascents apart from the ancient pin(which has excellent alternatives) at the overhang.

 
Sat 10th Nov 2018 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Back Wall
10 The Crouded Hurricane Staircase - with Norm Trad 40m
Linked with Walk Like An Egyptian. Only went 3 or 4 metres up Spiral's second pitch gully then up right-hand line to link into the walk-around the arete in one pitch. Bomb-proof wire just after arete step-around to protect seconds. Top pitch was OK but not sure about the star. You can climb almost anywhere here so route-finding skills are useful. I'd recommend breaking this pitch on big ledge about 15m below top because of rope drag.

 
4 Walk Like An Egyptian - with Norm Trad 43m
Actually started around left up slabby rib, probably as for Kirsty and Jo's Climb approach instead of the start around right. Seemed more logical. Did as two pitches. Probably need to break into 3 with novices as you'd lose sight of them after the traverse.

 
Tue 6th Nov 2018 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Death Row Pinnacle
18 Death Row - with Kerrod Trad 45m
Fri 6th Apr 2018 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos South Face
17 Gunk In The Pimms - with Ray Trad 30m Very Good
Fri 6th Apr 2018 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Death Row Pinnacle
8 Water Wings - with Ray Trad 25m
14 Buttons - with Ray Trad 10m
Sat 7th May 2016 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos South Face
17 Gunk In The Pimms Trad 30m Very Good
With Nod. Gave it a good clean beforehand. Think it's probably 17 rather than 18 in it's clean state. Said it's very good, but then I'm biased.

 
Sun 24th Apr 2016 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Front Wall and West Face
18 Oceanoid Trad 75m
with Steve. First pitch only. Got a bit warm.

 
Sat 6th Feb 2016 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Death Row Pinnacle
10 8 Water Wings Trad 25m
with Norm. Not bad at all. Nice moves on the crease-ramp, thought that was a bit hard for grade 8. Good easy pitch for a hot morning. Think Laurel and Hardy might start a metre or two further to right.

 
14 Black Box Trad 25m
Didn't like exit from sentry box. Saw where the good gear was when cleaning. Need big cam in sentry box.

 
14 Buttons Trad 10m
With Norm. Fiddly gear at start.

 
Sat 10th Oct 2015 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Front Wall and West Face
8 Spiral Staircase - with Ray, Nod Trad 100m
1st climb in 9 months. 6 months after shoulder op. About time

 
Sat 16th Feb 2013 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Back Wall
14 Lamplighter - with Nod, Norm Trad 78m
16 15 Lady Dihedral - with Nod, Norm Trad 78m
Sat 24th Mar 2012 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Front Wall and West Face
18 17 Oceanoid Trad 75m
P1 Only. 2 ropes, lots of slings and draws managed drag quite well.

 
Sat 1st Oct 2011 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Front Wall and West Face
18 Transatlantic Crossing Trad 40m Very Good
Nice and sunny place on a cold blustery morning. Got to lead both pitches. Had forgotten how good it is.

 
Tue 13th Apr 2010 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Front Wall and West Face
16 16 R Ship of Fools Trad 40m Crap

Showing all 19 ascents.

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