Main Cliff Mostly Trad climbing 38 routes in area

This climb has been upgraded to 13 in the 2011 guide book "Rockclimbs Around Melbourne" by Glenn Tempest. If you dont know how to jam, its most likely considerably harder.

Very reachy onto slab, then follow the ramp diagonally L, across Plum Jamb, to join Raspberry Ripple. Doesn't look great...but it is kept clean by traffic.

Start: Start just L of 'Protagonist'.

Do the mantle of PitS, then step R and over the technical bulge via the faint seam, with a single BR (new in 2004, take a bracket). Kept clean by traffic.

Start: Start as for PitS.

Up the seam for 5m to a ledge. Desperately boulder over bulge past BR, then more easily. Currently well coated by moss, although the initial seam was partially cleaned in Jan '09 if anyone would like to continue the work.

Start: Just R of PitS a slightly lower slab starts. Start under the left side of this, about 5m down R from PitS.

Up the faint closed seam past 2 BRs then step R and follow 'Fiction' past it's crux and final 2 BRs. Never sent, and now quite mossy.

Start: Start 2m L of 'Fiction'.

Simply superb, but at the crux you have to make something out of nothing. Unfortunately a chipped foothold appeared on the crux bulge about a year after the FA; ironically for many subsequent ascentionists it is in a poor location and doesn't get used. Rebolted 2016

Start: Start 5m R of 'Gnipples', under the only clean streak up this face.

"The hardest thing I climbed in the 80s": Law. Originally given 26, but "more like 28 now that no one climbs slabs". Brushed and rebolted 2016. One of the best hard lines near melbourne.

Start: Start 2m R of F.

Named after an old novel about French soldiers in Algeria, this route was the subject of a minor hoax in the 80s ... see Chockstone for the sordid details. It was then long neglected and moss had returned, but it's actually well worthwhile. Cleaning efforts have recommenced, as of Jan '09 it's about 90% clean. Please bring a brush and help finish the job. Rebolted with FH 2016.

Start: Start as for 'Skating Away'.

Perhaps the best route at the crag, and kept nicely clean by traffic. Start under the appealing clean finger cracks 4m R of RaD. When the cracks disappear, move onto the slab and up to a comfortable stance. A ringbolt above protects delicate slab moves, after which the climbing becomes easier.

Up the blank corner to a hold then L around arete and up the slab. The bolts and chipped hold are the work of a previous party.

Start: Start just R of NF.

As for GS to the bolt then take the L side of the slab to a short corner then more slabbing.

Start: Start as for GS.

Named "Friends in Low Places" as it was originally led without the bolt on the top crux corner due to the drill bit snapping whilst hand drilling. Therefore was first climbed with a couple of Friends in the break a very long way below!

Alternate, easer finish to do the bottom grooves of GS, Start as per GS to the bolt, then traverse right to the corner, ether climb the block or layback the cracks to the top

Has been reclaimed by moss which makes a groundfall off the initial corner a distinct possibility.

Start: Start under the major dirty L-facing corner.

The bolted section is kept clean by traffic but the upper slab is in poor condition as most parties seem to finish up PF. Please pitch in with some brushing so that this route can keep it's independent finish.

Start: Start as for PF.

An enjoyable direct finish for No Steel. The combination is worth a star.

From the finishing ledge of No Steel, instead of stepping left into Digit Dancer, head straight up past a good cam placement and 3 FH.

A pleasant outing with good protection.

Start as for Cracker Barrel. Up for 6m. Step left to short face and move up 1m. Step left again into the base of a ramp with twin cracks running all the way to the top.

This route is far longer and offers better climbing than Raspberry Ripple, but for some unknown reason has been neglected so much that the moss has returned.

Start: Start under the small detached flake which is 8m up R from the start of PF.

Another very worthwhile long easy line. Melbourne's low grade climbers should forgo their 27th repeat of Raspberry Ripple and instead salvage this line by putting in some brushing effort.

Start: Start as for CB.

Very worthwhile climbing, but some reasonably serious fall potential at times.

Start: Start about 5m up R from TAG. It's the first route you get to if walking down the north end of the crag.