Ascents in Stacks Bluff

Attempted onsight last year, fell at crux, was pumped from overgripping on the runout. Went super smoothly this time round. The type of climb one does not forget. Makes the runout on Incipience feel like absolute child’s play

Exceptional route. Pitch 4 felt more like the crux than 2. And pretty stiff for 21

Such a beautiful place! Camping by the tarn was stunning. the walls are so so intimidating! Bailed for a multitude of reasons... weather, potential lack of gear, and the heebie jeebies. Will come back to conquer when I'm braver!

Agree with Gerry’s guide 1 star 22

Crazy how nature do dat

So epic. Loved pitch 1, was stoked to get it clean, pitch 2 likewise but way harder. Wigged out on pitch 3. Pitch 4 not the easiest pitch on the route in my opinion. 10 hours car to car

Access getting up the scrub in the gully hard work but the money pitch is well worth it

Nice, but started too late and the weather rolled in. Cold on P2, retreated after that.

late start and weather did what it looked like it might

No rain, and the “gale force winds” were coming from the other direction, so the whole thing was protected.

I took the crux pitch, seth got the money. Linked p2+3 with minimal drag

A great, big, day out. Few tries to find a viable line on p2-3, when in doubt, head left

Went weather shopping, and came home empty handed. Spent a long time looking longingly at that finger crack, rain sprinkling gently, wishing it would just pass by.

Fun approach though - took 20 minutes to end of 4x4 track, and 50 to base of talus at a fairly casual plod. First pitch was meh, but im sure the rest is legendary

What an adventure! Consistent challenges nearly the whole way, with the second and third bearing the brunt of it. Still not sure if we got off route on the first pitch, but ended up adding an extra hanging belay on the second as rope drag and gear were an issue. Felt like we had to work for every metre of the climb. Hex’s, nuts, #4’s and #5’s got a real workout. Moss and lichen rained on the belayer like Tassie spindrift. Got poked in the eye by a bush. Lucked out with amazing conditions and topped out in the dark to a stunning moonrise over the valley. Good times.

The first of the Trinity for me. Great adventure. Somehow felt much bigger than the 4 pitches that it is. An excellent route for connoisseurs of thrutch. Bloody hard work for those like us who are not well schooled in the art of the wide stuff. We brought two #4 and two #5 camalots, and used them a lot. Pulled on the gear a couple of times to get through some wet slimy sections. Started climbing around lunchtime after walking up but all the slow shuffling and some shenanigans with belays in the wrong spots ate up a lot of time. Got to enjoy an awesome light show while I was sitting at the belay at the top of the third pitch. There was a bit of smoke in the air over the central plateau and the distant peaks showing through the haze in the late afternoon light were amazing. When the sun dropped a bit lower the Fingal valley gradually filled with cloud and the shadow of the mountain was cast against it. We topped out just on dark, just in time to see an incredible orange full moon rising through the smoke haze above a sea of cloud. Wandered around the scree in the moonlight for a while before eventually finding the bivi spot at Tranquil tarn. Very happy to have scored dead calm, clear, warm conditions in late March.

A true oldschool style adventure. Learned plenty of new techniques to climb through steep offwidths and chimneys and ran out large sections due to a lack of finger sized gear. I felt genuinely scared in multiple sections even on the low grade pitches and hanging belays on loose blocks. Dropped two nuts at the base of the route if anyone can be bothered searching for them, ENJOY!

Led P1 and 2, which were full value. the 16 pitch has got to be one of the most enjoyable 16s around. Classic.

The final route of the trinity, and what a stellar route. Probably my favourite route of the three, with consistent excellent climbing on perfect rock. Led P1&2 (linked) and P4. Linking P1 and P2 is not recommended - it was longer than 60m and tim had to scramble up for the last few metres. It also meant I had to solve the final crux with painful rope drag and your last quickdraw. Utterly destroyed after that pitch I could barely talk. 3rd pitch is just a beautiful, sustained crack - thoroughly enjoyable but in my sick, tired state I was utterly crushed. Which led to an entertaining conversation where Tim offered to lead P4. I refused. We were both dreading it given it was meant to be a 'crux' pitch - I don't think Ian Lewis even knew what crux meant, judging by how strong the climbing on the trinity is. In any case this pitch is utterly joyous. On the lip just before turning the overhang I shout to Tim - 'and to think you wanted to snake my pitch ya fucken bastard' and pull the lip. The final pitch is just a dream crack. Amazing line. Full respect to the FA of the trinity, just can't imagine how they did it back in 1973. One of the true classics of Tassie climbing.

the second of the trinity. Old school grunt, absolutely worth the effort. Led P2 and 4. The second pitch in particularly will work you to the absolute core. Pull all your old school tricks out of your frothbag to stay on. Did a variant finish of P4 with a thin corner and 2 short cracks. The kind of climb that loses a star with cleaning, and will build ya character. Get on it.Absolute props to the FA - just incredible.

The trinity! The supposed crown jewel of the trinity. Props to the FA, what a lead back in 1973 - just boggles the mind. Led pitch 2 and pitch 4&5 (linked into a mega long stunner of a pitch), which were the money pitches with brilliant varied climbing. some loose rock on 3rd pitch and start of 4th as well. Classic.

Such a great route. Onsighted first two pitches, seconded the 3rd clean. But had multiple rests on the 4th/5th pitches (combined).

After walking for 3 hours to Africa crag, before deciding it was too arctic there, we rapped into this to avoid the mank approach and 1st pitch. I led the money pitch (warmup) as a giant 60m pitch. Onsight to 40m (the last 1.5m of the crux) when I got a piece of gear stuck on my harness and hung for ages on crux holds to sort. Pumped-out a bit above, unable to hold my ringlocks in anymore. Damn! Brutal, strenuous and intimidating. Off-size everything for me. Committing through roof and above.

Onsight all 6 pitches. P1 and P6 are average, but not unpleasant. The "crux" P2 felt about 19/20 with hands-off rests every 2 moves as you stem up the corner; P3 had some fun laybacking; I combined P4 and P5 into a 60m megapitch of awesome face climbing and stemming, with some engaging jamming through steepness at the top. This pitch felt like Ben Lomond 20/21. Not a megaclassic as there is still a fair bit of loose rock on it, but every pitch has value and its a great day out.

With Jed and Tom. Led the crux pitch, but that meant Jed got the second 20/21 pitch, which was the most amazing climbing I've done for a long, long time. Awesome.

Strenuous and faairly sustained every pitch.Lots fist jamming, take lots big cams n hexes.Camalots 3/4/5 Crux airy,strenuous,amazing.Last of Trinity for me,Got Em,Ye Ha

Ground up onsight first ascent. What an experience! mega stemming corner/finger crack.

Maybe the second ascent.I was VERY happy not to fall off. I led the 2nd half of the 1st pitch (desperate offwidth bit)and the 2nd pitch (desperate runout but). Very memorable.

What a Fucking Ripper,its got it all,fingers laybacks,jamming,small offwidth.Suprised by only coming off once.

1st of the Trinity,hard yakka,offwidths and chimney,nice exposure near top

Long route - seemed longer still. Take a big cam or two or be prepared to squirm a little!