Routes in Smoke Cave

Stand Start on RHS of Cave on big undercling halfway into cave. Move into roof via RH ear and crimpy sloper of Nightmoves. Move into the good underclings of BDTH and finish as for Burning Down the House.

Burning Down the House to its 3rd hold, then press into a RH gaston into Nightmoves, gain its final kneebar, and finish as for that problem. Originally '5 until someone pointed out that Burning Down the House was about 3, if that!

As for Black Hole Sun but takes the more direct Night Moves exit to finish.

Nightmoves start direct to the black hole finish.

Starts matched on the big undercling on the left hand side of the cave. Head left and finish on the headwall.

Sit start on the left hand entrance of the cave on the good side pull. Climb the diagonally trending feature and finish above the caves entrance.

Start as for Fire play. Before finishing Fire play- reverse the exit sequence of Nightmoves, gain the knee bar rest, then finish as for Black hole.

A Paul Kinnane vision of 2011/12 until Trent took the drivers seat. Starts in the back left hand side of the cave on left hand side pull (RH matched or below it). Move RH to gaston then pop again to a good edge and then left on a series of underclings. Head out the cave and finish on the headwall. Definitely nicer starting on the RH gaston - however description now reflects the FA. Guess everyone will have to do it again! Worth noting that the start hold did break around 2020 but still climbable via this method.

Sit start with R+LH on good side pulls. Climb up into 'Nightmoves' underclings and climb this route backwards. Once at the blocky undercling Head up and right and finish matched on the black hole in the back right hand side of the cave.

Start in the black hole at the back of the cave, climb into all of Nightmoves crux, then exit via Burning Down the House.

(It's a line out of Burning Down the House). Links new territory straight into the Nightmoves crux, joining it at its crimper as a RH gaston. Start as for BDTH but with a RH on a slopey crimp in the middle of the wall. RH to gaston the Nightmoves intermediate crux crimp, then a very hard shoulder press into the remainder of the crux of Nightmoves. Finish as for that.

Start matched on BDTH undercling. Break up & right to flat slopey edge, then right gain into gaston press. Push up into bad undercling and cross LH to the good dish of Nightmoves. Finish in the black hole up and right. A unique sequence for this cave.

The obvious sit start to 'The Kids Are Restless'. Start as for 'Black Hole' just inside the cave on the side-pulls. Move left to the arete and climb 'The Kids Are Restless' to the top. Finishes once established on the face. Jump down.

Two move sit start to Fireplay's one move sit start ha ha. Start as for Burning Down the House and traverse horizontally left into Fireplay's start. Finish as for that. Now easier with new intermediates thrown in.

Nightmoves, finishing up Burning Down the House.

Start as for Firestarter, then traverse into Head Like a Hole reversing the Night Moves exit from the cave and at the knee bar rest change direction by hopping onto Black Hole Sun and finishing as per that.

Climb all of Black Hole, then back out via Nightmoves finish. 28-30 move marathon.

Firestarter start into Head Like a Hole

Firestarter start into Head Like a Hole