Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Mon 10th Jun 2024 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Dingo Creek | |||||||
17 | ★★ Drop Bear | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Best 17 in the Mountains.
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22 | ★ An All-New Face-Climb | 35m, 14 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Lovely face climbing on ironstone features, made me feel like a good climber
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Mon 22nd Apr 2024 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Bung Crag Diesel Wall | |||||||
18 | ★ Fart Wars - with Kristof Donald | 14m, 7 | Average | ||||
Lots of loose rock
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Sun 21st Apr 2024 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Bung Crag The Pagoda Environs | |||||||
14 | ★ You Call This an Arete | 13m, 6 | |||||
It's hard to know what to think of this. Like Mikl on the sea cliffs, Rod Kevin Dude & co, are "artists that have gone off on some strange tangent while the rest of the climbing population follow the norm".
Sport bushwalking is fun though and it's way better than the Soft Parade. |
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18 ~17 | ★ Emergency bacon | 12m, 5 | |||||
Nice spot. Rock is a bit dirty but good features.
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Fri 22nd Dec 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Dingo Creek | |||||||
26 | ★★★ Indian Pacific - with Julie Anderson | 38m, 17 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sooo good, I had to come back a few times over the years to get the crux sorted. Most of the climb is 3-4 grades easier than the crux section but for some reasons it's still exciting and it climbs so well. I rate this climb and will do it again.
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Sun 10th Dec 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Bung Crag The Pagoda Environs | |||||||
18 ~16 | ★ Emergency bacon - with Ben Jancovich | 12m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Very easy for the grade. Beautiful climbing shame it doesn’t continue for another 20m!
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Sat 9th Sep 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Azaria's Aurora | |||||||
23 | ★ The Lithgow Panther - with Belledonna Brown | 25m | |||||
Such a fun climb, will have to come back and not punt it at the top
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24 | ★★ Toasted — 2 attempts - with Belledonna Brown | 20m | |||||
Spicy little boulder down low!
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Sun 3rd Sep 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Azaria's Northern Star Wall | |||||||
28 | ★★★ Northern Star — 3 attempts - with Jacques Beaudoin | 17m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
What a ripper of a line! That sidepull into gaston crux is tough. Thanks Jacques for the tour!
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Wed 30th Aug 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Daydreamer | |||||||
28 | ★★★ Le Paresseux - with sare | 30m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Finally completing this long chapter placing all gear from ground to end. This climb is one of a kind.
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Sun 13th Aug 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Daydreamer | |||||||
28 | ★★★ Le Paresseux - with Paul Frothy Thomson | 30m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Was and epic battle. All trad gear pre-placed. Very, very unique climb. Such an improbable line.
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Thu 29th Jun 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Daydreamer | |||||||
24 | ★★★ Sloth Roof - with Seth | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Got advised to upgrade to 24. Although all holds are big, half the gear is tricky and suspicious and this thing is horizontal. Would be three stars at piddo.
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Mon 26th Jun 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Dingo Creek | |||||||
26 | ★★★ Indian Pacific | 38m, 17 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
wow!
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Fri 16th Jun 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Dingo Creek | |||||||
26 | ★★★ Indian Pacific - with davedave, Michael Moore, Luke Hef | 38m, 17 | |||||
Sooo techy and megaaaaa
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17 | ★★ Drop Bear - with davedave, Michael Moore, Luke Hef | 20m | |||||
Really enjoyed this
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Thu 15th Jun 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Dingo Creek | |||||||
13 | ★★ Berk, Berk, Bekawrk - with Match, Michael Moore, heffner | 20m | |||||
Gotta get some meters logged somewhere.
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8 | ★★ Milo - with Match, Michael Moore, heffner | 15m | |||||
Got the approach shoe beta from mitcho
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19 | ★ Pick Pocket - with Match, Michael Moore, heffner | 20m | |||||
Got spooked like a lot of the other ascentionists going around the arete to the thin crux holds. Degenerated into a bit of a dog show.
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26 | ★★★ Indian Pacific - with Match, davedave, Luke Hef | 38m, 17 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sheeeeeet, it’s huge
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Wed 7th Jun 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Daydreamer | |||||||
24 | ★★★ Sloth Roof - with Pedro V | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Second shot with all gear pre-placed, first shot was epic with passive gear pre-placed and felt soooo much harder, I gave up when placing a bad #5 breathing in a chunky gain of sand. The climb still needs a lot of cleaning.
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Mon 22nd May 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Daydreamer | |||||||
28 | FA ★★★ The Blood Arrow - with Pedro V | 25m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
First Free Ascent. What a line, what a climb! First shot of the day, boom!
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24 | ★★★ Daydreamer - with Pedro V | 23m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Warming up, got a bit more pumped than expected
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Sat 8th Apr 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Bung Crag The Red Wall | |||||||
21 | ★★ Chink in the Armour | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
Holds were breaking left, right and centre… otherwise, great climbing.
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23 | ★ Panem ethics — 2 attempts | 18m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Hard bouldery start to tricky finish.
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Sat 8th Apr 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Bung Crag The Green Wall | |||||||
23 | ★★ Indian giver - with Pierre, manon nougier, Naomi, JeremyPerier, Coedie, Laura Wimberger, Ryan, Lee | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
I think this was the line we tried...the only on on rings, climbs nicely with some touch moves, a hard crux and the best quality rock i've pulled onto here. Got all the moves but the crux move took a couple gos to figure. out
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Sat 8th Apr 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Bung Crag The Creature Wall | |||||||
22 | ★★ Old Yeller - with Pierre, manon nougier, Naomi, JeremyPerier, Coedie, Laura Wimberger, Ryan, Lee | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Really enjoyable with a potentially frustrating crux. Bring a camera if you've got mates on the red wall below.
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6 | Little Fella - with Pierre, manon nougier, Naomi, JeremyPerier, Coedie, Laura Wimberger, Ryan, Lee | 18m, 5 | |||||
sounds very hollow and fragile
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Sat 8th Apr 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Bung Crag The Red Wall | |||||||
21 | ★ The Diving Board - with Pierre, manon nougier, Naomi, JeremyPerier, Coedie, Laura Wimberger, Ryan, Lee | 22m, 11 | |||||
A frustrating fall after going to the wrong holds twice otherwise a really enjoyable route
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Tue 14th Mar 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Daydreamer | |||||||
24 ~23 | ★★★ Daydreamer | 23m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
A bit of an exaggeration calling it “perfect rock”, but it is an incredible climb.
It’s not often you come across a 15m overhanging route, protected by gear, with no crack climbing. Awesome bit of jug hauling, on surprisingly solid rock. Pro the whole way, and not a crimp in sight. Ticked with pre-placed gear, but suggested grade is to account for extra pump placing. Sick find Anton Korsun and great job establishing it |
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Mon 13th Mar 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Sahara Point Sahara Wall | |||||||
23 ~24 | ★★★ The Bowl-Line Crack'd - with Iso | ★★★ Classic | |||||
With lower hand crack rootlet included easily a 24 maybe harder. 23 without the start seems fair only if your good at jamming
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Fri 3rd Mar 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Firecat Walls | |||||||
18 | ★★ Teaser and the Firecat | 64m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
climbed as 1 pitch
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Sat 7th Jan 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Sahara Point Sahara Wall | |||||||
20 | ★★ The Ultimate Aphrodisiac - with Rafael Andreollo | 15m, 8 | |||||
Nice route, well protected
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13 | ★ The Anzac Spirit - with Rafael Andreollo | 24m, 10 | |||||
Nice route to leave the crag. Start is a bit harder than a 13 imo
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20 | Gear on ★★ The Ultimate Aphrodisiac - with Guilherme Pizzi | 15m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
great rock, well bolted
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13 | ★ The Anzac Spirit - with Guilherme Pizzi | 24m, 10 | |||||
Climbed out of the crag through this. Fun start, would have been easier without a backpack
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19 | ★★ Spot the Dog - with Guilherme Pizzi | 26m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Good rock and good climbing, but there's only two carrots at the top. We left an anchor there and retrieved it on the way out. This is the only route that seemed to have anchors in this part of the wall
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Sun 4th Dec 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Bung Crag Surprise Wall | |||||||
17 | ★ Pardon my French | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
bigger moves but also bigger holds than the climbs to the left
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Sun 4th Dec 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Bung Crag The Pagoda Environs | |||||||
17 | Kerchicken | 12m | Average | ||||
had to make carrying gear out here worthwhile (the other nearby trad routes looked too fiddly to get to the start, when supposed to be trip leading).
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Sun 4th Dec 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Bung Crag Surprise Wall | |||||||
19 | ★ The Drug That Killed River Pheonix | 15m, 7 | ★ Good | ||||
Thin and pumpy to find holds. Generous bolting which is helpful with the rock quality here. Someone pulled a head-size block off later but I don't think it was anything important.
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Sun 4th Dec 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Bung Crag The Pagoda Environs | |||||||
16 | ★ Assault Your Senses | 13m, 6 | Average | ||||
UTS club day. not bad moves but very dirty
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19 | ★ Taste of vegemite | 14m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
really nice hard rock on these two climbs, not like the other side of the pagoda. have to avoid veering onto the 16 to make the most of this one.
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Sat 3rd Dec 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Azaria's Northern Star Wall | |||||||
28 | FA ★★★ Northern Star - with Gwen, Ayla, Amelie | 17m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
First Free Ascent. Two months of effort from cleaning to sending but had very bad conditions. I guess gr28 is fair. Finally a project I can tick in a matter of months rather than years...
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Thu 3rd Nov 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Azaria's Aurora | |||||||
23 | Aurora Australis Pitch 1 - with Jacques Beaudoin | 10m | Average | ||||
So much sand I had to stop and wipe the walls down! Next time I’ll just walk up the ledge.
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26 | ★★★ Aurora Australis pitch 2 - with Jacques Beaudoin | 30m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Dunno about “Arapiles style”.
Low mental power day, I basically just sat my way through it. With a bit of cleaning it’s definitely worth another lap though. Super fun move just after the crux |
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27 | ★★★ Chasing stars | 30m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fun climbing - all the moves go fairly easy, but I’m sure putting them together might be hard.
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Tue 16th Aug 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Mother Earth | |||||||
31 | ★★★ Mother Earth - with Anton Korsun | 24m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
First Free Ascent without pre-placed gear (redpoint). I have no words, it has been a long journey. Well worth it. I can't thank my belayers enough. Shot #1000000
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Sat 13th Aug 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Daydreamer | |||||||
24 | ★★★ Daydreamer - with Anton Korsun | 23m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
It's pretty rare to come across a climb like this. This line is obvious and screams to be climbed, it's perfectly protected with traditional gear, all the holds are great and interesting with some truely amazing features, length is good, rests are helpful but not lie down type of thing, it's steeeep as, protected from rain, drizzle, sun, wind, name it. Thanks to Anton, outstanding work. Finally something I could redpoint 😂 My ascent was with previous knowledge as I've been up it few times taking a gentleman sit before the crux, then I had the chance to snatch the second ascent with extensive description of gear placements and provided gear so in some ways I wish I would have had the chance of getting this climb onsight but supporting Anton for the first ascent was even better. Again, top work Anton!
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Tue 26th Jul 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Daydreamer | |||||||
24 | ★★★ Daydreamer - with Jacques Beaudoin | 23m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
FFA. A consistently high caliber of climbing that gets pumpier as the gear gets more spaced (although all within reason). Thanks to Brandon, Zi and Chris for the looong aid belays required to clean this last summer!
Gradewise, I found it harder than Vascularity, Disbelief and Supercrack, but given that I generally find jamB cracks easier than their hold-bearing counterparts, I think soft 24 is fair. Especially on a redpoint/onsight. |
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Sat 23rd Jul 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Mother Earth | |||||||
26 | ★★★ Titan | 20m | |||||
Progress! Sent the first crux clean from the beginning to where the next hard bit starts. Everything after that was seeping so just had a casual aid look.
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Fri 15th Jul 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Mother Earth | |||||||
26 | ★★★ Titan | 20m | |||||
We only had mother earth rack (which isn't much!) so I only got to sample the first crux. Every move I did was some combination of jam and kneebar, which in other words means "awesome"!
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Sun 13th Mar 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Sahara Point Sahara Wall | |||||||
16 18 | ★ Hard Gore | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
A lot of suss rock
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Sun 2nd Jan 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Bung Crag The Green Wall | |||||||
21 | ★★ The Little Leprechaun | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Rpt, quick last climb before heading back to work.
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Sun 2nd Jan 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Bung Crag The Red Wall | |||||||
18 | ★★ TrackerJack | 33m, 14 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Rpt, 2 laps
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19 | ★★ Down in Hobart Town | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Rpt, we may have sandbagged this one, knee bars help but at least a 20.
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20 | ★★ Twigs and Bark | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Rpt,mpretty thin in one spot
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Sat 1st Jan 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Bung Crag Niall Blair Testimonial wall | |||||||
22 | FA ★ Cuddle-dog | 14m | ★ Good | ||||
FFA. My recollection is it’s a little easier than the route to the R, so I will give it a 22. Fun route.
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Sat 1st Jan 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Bung Crag The Pagoda Environs | |||||||
15 | ★ Synchronize Your Dogmas | 14m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
The most mossy of the routes, but some interesting mantles whilst trying to harmonise the dogmas
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16 | Franks wank | 14m, 6 | Average | ||||
Some ok moves, not quite as good as SF
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16 | ★ Assault Your Senses | 13m, 6 | Average | ||||
Good area for our friends to start consolidating leading
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Fri 31st Dec 2021 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Bung Crag The Orange Wall | |||||||
24 | ★★ Good Golly Miss Molly | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Two shots today, had to reacquaint myself first go. one fall at crux on second go, got back on without much rest and finished it. A super route. Definitely room for something hard to the left.
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20 | ★ Ninja Princess Direct start | 7m | ★ Good | ||||
Did this previously
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Fri 31st Dec 2021 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Bung Crag The Pagoda Environs | |||||||
16 | ★ Phatty's last stand | 14m, 7 | ★ Good | ||||
Nice climb at the grade, maybe 15, good rock
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19 | ★ Taste of vegemite | 14m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Some long moves succumbing to technique. Nice rock
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Sun 12th Dec 2021 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Firecat Walls | |||||||
18 |
★★ Teaser and the Firecat
- with
Cédric
1
18
64m
2
| 64m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
The drive out to Sahara Point (mostly, we stopped at the hill 1.5k away) was pretty stressful in a lil Impreza, and I was wondering if one climb was going to be worth it. But the extra fire trail walk + much more bushbashing than expected + climb and then do it all again to get out - was somehow more worth it!
I leave the details to unknown trad bliss but I do think it could be done in 1 pitch with a 70m rope, and that would be quite rad. And you could probably leave a #4 and #5 at home that way. Nor do you need doubles below #4. We couldn't find any faint track to the cliff, maybe burnt out. Easier to just go to the carpark, follow the cairned track to Sahara Walls, then bash. |
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Sun 22nd Aug 2021 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Azaria's Aurora | |||||||
27 | ★★★ Chasing stars | 30m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Finally. First Oz 27.
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Sat 22nd May 2021 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Azaria's Aurora | |||||||
24 | ★★ Mousie Maze | 30m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
First go, rested on draws on overhang, tried a few sequences
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24 | ★★ Mousie Maze | 30m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Trying more moves, did long move left to glued pinch at crux.
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Sat 22nd May 2021 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Azaria's Squashed Dog Ledge | |||||||
21 | ★ Canis Interuptus | 21m, 10 | Average | ||||
A little bit of a dog leg to get to the last bolt shared with Squashed Dog.
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22 | ★ Squashed Dog | 20m | Average | ||||
Ok, some loose holds that I thought I might pull off.
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Sun 16th May 2021 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Bung Crag Surprise Wall | |||||||
17 | Defecate on my Face | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Good
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17 | Defecate on my Face | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Good
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15 | ★★ The Slab that Bon Scott Drunk | 15m, 7 | ★ Good | ||||
Good times with my bro
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Wed 12th May 2021 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Mother Earth | |||||||
31 | ★★★ Mother Earth | 24m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
First Redpoint attempt. It was really scary as I was not really sure if I would be able to place next piece on lead and it's quite runout. I have worked out placements all on lead, now 5 group placements in 24m of climbing from batman anchor. 1st before crux (triple Yellow Z4), 2nd through crux (BD std med nut), at rest (Grey, Blue, Yellow Z4), Mid Bulge (Purple C4), Mid Roof (Red C4). If this wasn't of the batman start, most of the climb would be in groundfall territory. Luckily, it starts 7m from ground. As far as climbing goes, I find quite easy now, conditions are great and I'm thinking gr31 is not accurate and it could well be easier.
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Sun 2nd May 2021 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Mother Earth | |||||||
31 | FA ★★★ Mother Earth Project - with Ben Cadwelladder | 24m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
FFA. First Free Ascent, pink point style. 76 shots over 7 months. This is a stunning line open for business.
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Wed 28th Apr 2021 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Mother Earth | |||||||
31 | ★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project) | 24m | |||||
Warmup burn was as per previous highpoints, no more struggle through the finger locks, just have to get more than one pad in that pocket...
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31 | ★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project) | 24m | |||||
Freak event, second lock didn't get in properly, not to worry...
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31 | ★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project) | 24m | |||||
OMG that was it, I had the pocket solid but for some reasons my body was sagging too much to reset and wedge my pinky on the left side to proceed with the easy Glory Dyno. This should have been the one, I should have fought more. New high point at least.
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31 | ★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project) | 24m | |||||
I can do easily four shot a session now. Fell off one pad in pocket. Shot 75
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Sun 25th Apr 2021 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Mother Earth | |||||||
31 | ★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project) | 24m | |||||
Foot popped at pinch, does this counts as an attempt?...
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31 | ★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project) | 24m | |||||
High point again at pocket, kind of latched but not quite enough
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31 | ★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project) | 24m | |||||
High point again at pocket, latched on tips but fell off trying the one arm chinup wiggle trying to get them deeper. Then did few times the crux sequence but had to stop at shuffle, it's just too hard when gased. I reconsidered going for a small dyno skipping the shuffle and it worked straight away, I did it like 10x and I was so tired towards the end and it still worked. Major progress. Going through the 2nd&3rd jam seems now to be a formality, just have to latch the pocket and that's it. Shot 71
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Wed 21st Apr 2021 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Mother Earth | |||||||
31 | ★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project) | 24m | |||||
Great conditions, almost fell off gaston again, 2nd lock not good, fell off going for 3rd
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31 | ★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project) | 24m | |||||
High Point!!! Cruised through gaston at last, 2nd lock perfect, 3rd lock not great, crimp, chinup foot up, dyno to pocket first pads in but didn't latch. With retrospective I knew the 3rd lock wasn't good but knew I could chin-up foot up but it seems like I need 3rd lock to be good to pull my body in enough to stick the dyno. Next time I'll try to reset 3rd lock from crimp before progressing further.
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31 | ★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project) | 24m | |||||
Not bad, fell off touching crimp
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Sat 17th Apr 2021 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Mother Earth | |||||||
31 | ★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project) | 24m | |||||
Spoogy today, no chances, only good point is I'm getting a hold on that start that was bothering me, def pinkie on top at gaston. 2nd lock was so bad that I didn't even try going for the third.
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31 | ★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project) | 24m | |||||
Spoogy, still got better at start and gaston move will hopefully compromise the crux section anymore. At least try to ge 3rd lock but didn't even touch it. Decided that was it for the day and added some milleage going from Entry crimps through crux locks up to hand shuffle about 4x in a row without too much fuss
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Wed 14th Apr 2021 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Mother Earth | |||||||
31 | ★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project) | 24m | |||||
RH34% Still struggling with start Gaston, tape overlaps too close, need 2mm between layers, fell off and lock
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31 | ★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project) | 24m | |||||
RH30% Almost fell off start Gaston slipping, fell off tips in 3rd lock desperately going for crimp
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31 | ★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project) | 24m | |||||
RH30% Got back to pinkie on top of Gaston and gained some traction, still not cruisy, I was so in control on that one, perfect 2nd lock, took my time to reach up for 3rd but one split second before locking, 2nd failed. Did multiple overlaps from entry crimps to crux crimp to warm down.
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Sun 11th Apr 2021 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Mother Earth | |||||||
31 | ★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project) | 24m | |||||
Shot #60
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31 | ★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project) | 24m | |||||
Perfect conditions, perfect execution until I didn't dropknee enough and 2nd lock not deep, there goes down the dominos.
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Wed 7th Apr 2021 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Mother Earth | |||||||
31 | ★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project) | 24m | |||||
Conditions felt quite good despite a shocking 99% RH, I probably ignore relative humidity from now on... Felt strong on all moves, forgot to clip crux nut than reassessed/realised and clipped, too much tape... index didn't get in 2nd lock... feels like the goldilocks story too much/not enough ;-)
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31 | ★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project) | 24m | |||||
Felt super strong unreal, botched 2nd lock didn't get third
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31 | ★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project) | 24m | |||||
Total control, 2nd lock perfect, not enough juice to pull to establish 3rd perfect, still kept going, didn't stick crimp, lowered to crux entry crimps and climbed effortlessly through all locks, struggled at shuffle but kept going then topout is a formality. This is happening soon.
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Fri 2nd Apr 2021 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Mother Earth | |||||||
31 | ★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project) | 24m | |||||
Conditions quite good. Had to fight through lower section, I thought this was sorted, not. Too much tape again index didn't get in ok, well I thought this was sorted too... sta down at crux trying all combinations of taping until chunks of skin started to peel off at 1st knuckle, So I decided to cover the now bloddy first knuckle with one layer and 4 between knuckles, that worked marginally. I figured out that even though I was torquing a lot so the fingers are locking, well that wasn't enough. So latest beta is torque as much as you can, then torque more.
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31 | ★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project) | 24m | |||||
Sounded like I had the winning recipe... Fell off "before" 2nd lock oh dear. Started from crimps and this time it worked really well, fell off at hand shuffle
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Tue 30th Mar 2021 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Mother Earth | |||||||
31 | ★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project) | 24m | |||||
Sorted out gaston to wedge pocket. I was trying to get vertical push with two fingers on top of gaston but it's pointless; better full gaston and get the lift from footwork, back to easy... that's good. Tape was as best latest beta 4 layers towards 1st knuckle, felt ok but not cruisy and didn't stick 3rd lock. Then struggled at cross under on hand shuffle fell off there too. Aided back to RH in pocket and cruised to topout. Top part is unreal just too good.
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31 | ★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project) | 24m | |||||
After two weeks, can't expect too much. Conditions ordinary but not bad, after all that rain the crack isn't seeping at all like if nothing happened. Struggled again at beginning gaston to wedge pocket, need to sort this out, should be easy. Got a bit too excited with the tape on first knuckle and it just didn't get in 2nd lock. Removed one layer (3tot) and was better but nothing like last session, need 4 towards 1st knuckle but not onto it... finally got through to the hand shuffle but couldn't cross under, need to work on crimp/pinch strength.
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Mon 15th Mar 2021 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Mother Earth | |||||||
31 | ★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project) | 24m | |||||
Conditions ok, 72%RH. Bad 1st lock, bad 2nd lock, foot popped at reset
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