A cliff splitting crack that passes through three roofs and some sporty moves. Three bolts keep things sane, but you'll still need a double rack in the finger to hand sizes. A few nuts and hexes can supplement as needed.
Can be climbed as a mega pitch with some serious drag, or split at a semi hanging belay after the difficulties and below the final roof if you want to see the second.
The route starts from the major ledge underneath an obvious crack in the low roof. Trad anchor in the crack and or stick clip the first bolt to avoid consequential falls from the opening moves.
30m (21) Suck it up and commit to some powerful sporty moves out of the opening roof with two bolts and gear to the delicate thin crack (crux). Follow this up through two breaks to the shale break and final bolt. Pull the roof and over into a stance and semi-hanging belay.
20m (14) Follow the widening crack up into a few chimney moves to escape the final roof (all gear). Follow the crack system as it becomes increasingly easy and chossy to a final large cave (belay possible) or continue to the rap anchors and belay from here.
Multipitch adventure - described by first ascentist as "I think there's a few scary runout bits in the middle that I thought might spice it up. And a hard move at the bottom- I'd rapped from the top so I might have cheated with some extended draws at the start. I remember the glue wasn't really dry on the first few bolts so I might have tied them off to the rap rope "just in case"! Probably worth bringing some trad as well then! Starts up black arete (ubolts and rusty carrots). Grade is suspect until further repeats.
