Ascents in Mount Piddington by John Drake

This was a real dog day afternoon

Fisting hurts and makes me want to vomit. Can't wait to come back.

Excellent route- I'm keen to come back and lead P2 clean. Take heaps of hand-sized gear; we had 7 gold #2BD's and were happy to have them all (you use a few at the belay).

One fall at the crux. Found a sneaky rest that should help next time.

Fell at the crux... Again.

old rusty bolts didn't inspire much confidence. unfortunately the only good new bolt was above the crux and out of reach.

Had a bit of an epic climbing this by headlamp at the end of the day, with packs. We hadn't hiked the trails on this end of piddo, and following the trails wasn't hard, just a bit uncertain in the dark.

I was very happy to climb this clean, even while seconding. A great line.

I had a proper go on lead and took a good whip from about 2/3rds height, right before the difficulty eases off. I'm happy that I went for it and took the fall, but I'm disappointed because I was so close! Next time. This climb is brilliant.

Yes- psyched for the proper tick. What a pitch! I placed 5 BD #1's.

Cruisy lap on Jonas's gear. This line is excellent, but I think it is much easier than janicepts.

This is such a stellar pitch. One of my favorite lines at Piddo.

Dogged this bad boy. Wicked hard, but great. Lots of people say it's easier than Kraken... I don't agree.

This climb is hostile (and excellent)

This is going to take some work.

Getting gear and moves dialed. Made a dog's breakfast of the wide slot, felt solid on the crack to the rest, and whipped onto a nut on the face climbing above. I sorted out how to protect the top without blocking the good jams. It's starting to feel possible that I could get this clean someday, which is a big improvement.

One-hang.

Clean on lead, but with most of the gear on. Psyched. Will be back for the proper tick.

Very excited to get this clean while placing all the gear. It felt pretty straightforward today. I had to project this line like a sport climb, memorizing the moves and the gear. What a classic.

Classy corner crack, with a bit of fun groveling. Very old school. For those wanting to protect the off-width, a #6 BD camalot will fit- barely. I had some internet beta, so can't claim an on-sight.

Gear on for Carrie (who cruised it). I still find this to be a burly affair. I also enjoyed the novelty of protecting the off-width very well (two big bros and a #6BD).

"it's only 17"

I made a dog's breakfast out of this... again. I swear it's harder than the kraken.

Psyched. Perhaps the hardest 17 in the mountains.

The danger of sandbagging your partner into getting on this is that if they don't get up it, you have to do it again. Sandbag fail.

Pitch 1 only, then bailed at sunset. Ridiculous sandbag, but still good fun.

What a ripper of a pitch! I enjoyed this immensely. Came off at the roof- pulled the rope and sent it second go. This is "19" in the same way that Ballrace is "17".

My partner lead the standard SIncerity, and I seconded through the hard moves at the top. Full value, with a few fun and hard slab moves. I never thought that I would get so much use out of a sloping mono.

Climbed some laps while waiting my turn on Flake Crack. Fun, but short.

Learning to aid

Seconding Carrie. We did the Hopeful-Crack connection, which is Hope into the crack bit of Flake Crack. This makes for an enjoyable little linkup.

Did the flake and the crack- terrific route. Big gear mandatory, particularly camalot #4 and perhaps #5. With good footwork, the flake is less of a lie-back grunt fest.

P1 and 2.

Apparently my 10th ascent of this route, but only now did I find the hands-free kneebar at the rooflet.

One fall at the crux. An excellent and enjoyable climb. Why did it take me so many years to get on this?

Clean on the second. Easier than SSCC3.

Ticked clean. Found the first crux (after first bolt) much harder than in the past, and much harder than the moves above. An excellent climb.

Love this climb. The first crux spit me off this time. Got it clean second go.

A bit streno for 11; perhaps not the best beginner lead. But it's fun.

Seconding Carrie's lead. Gear and old bolts are a bit suss. Don't fall.

Checking Carrie's gear.

Thanks for the rebolt! Stainless steel glue-in carrots look great.