6.5hrs car to car! A great, heady, adventurous multi-pitch adventure with a decidedly old-school feel. Have your headgame in check before you attempt this one! All but 2 of the pitches have real quality. P1 (23) - 2nd Clean. Great, pumpy climbing right off the ground. P2 (22M1) - Onsight. I had a huck at the 25 free version, but the crimp-dyno off the belay was kind of hideous. Funky hard start (after the aid move), then average wandery, dangerously runout rambling on easy-ish terrain and dubious rock. P3 (22) - 2nd Clean - The slab-arete start is brilliant, after which its just enjoyable orange thinness. Easyish for the original 23 grade? P4 (24M1) - Onsight. Had a bit of a go at the free version, but it's very its very illogical from below (it only made sense when I was well above it). Onsighted the 24M1 version by pulling on a single bolt to gain the next hold. A thrilling, and terrifyingly committing sequence to gain and turn the arete (feet first?????), then technical thin climbing up the left-side of the arete to the top. Brilliant. P5 (24) - 1 Fall (right at the end of the hard moves) on 2nd. D'oh! A brilliant, pumpy, power-endurance pitch on great rock, and quite sustained for the first half. Super-exposed position. P6 (10) - Onsight. A junky, loose exit pitch. Meh.
- with
Jason
