Ascents in Lunch Ledge as various tick types

Aided the top pitch in the storm

The 2 harder pitches are great and rather sustained. The chossy pitches are still enjoyable. Fell turning the roof and on the 23 crimpfest pitch.

Epic, but a total choss fest. I've been hoping to do this for years, but didnt think i was strong enough. Turns out it was ok, and the lead might be possible. Crux really just had one hard move, thin hands for me, maybe a ringlock. Led pitch three and should've gotten it clean, just got tired and lazy. Postitions were epic and so was a lot of the moves, can't be bored on climbing like this.

Talked dave up from an afternoon at Villawood to a day outside, on the strict requirement that we have a super cruisy day on Darkside / silk rd.

At the carpark I specifically said "I have the 6, 5 and doubles of 4 to 1, so you'll need to bring everything below a 1 please". He accidentally mis-interpreted that to mean that I had nuts and only a single rack of .75-.1, and decided to bring a SINGLE rack of small cams and NO nuts, and left the rest of his gear in the car. We also forgot the tape gloves

Rappelled into the crag. Started arguing over whether or not we were lost when it became apparent there was no chimney. After scrutinising many topos we realised we'd rappelled into samarkand by accident.

dave was very unhappy. I was very unhappy we had not brought nuts. I weighted passively placed cams for the first time in my life. It was a very sloppy ascent by two friends who had not outdoor climbed since they last saw each other in Arapiles many months ago (i think). Our hands got wREckED.

Great chit chat in the car ride home though.

As I bum-slid backwards towards the bolt after p2, unable to stand up due to a mix of exhaustion, overheating and pure terror, I may have considered changing my name and moving to a lonely ashram somewhere in search of whatever the opposite of what I had just experienced was...

Apart from that, it was a pretty rad day out, where everything went mostly as planned and I got to do all other pitches clean! Thanks Henry for coming along and swinging leads 🙂

One of the greatest adventure routes in aus with plenty of hard climbing and choss to always make the ascent a little uncertain. Classic. Double rack from micro to #3 and a single 4 was great. (Triples in 0.5 and #1 is useable, the lay back tips crack doesn't need too many small cams, its all over pretty fast). The micro nuts in the first pitch are handy, although you only need 3-4 of them max, micro cams are just as handy. First pitch is soft for 23, maybe 20 even, but on some bad/wet rock. Second 25 pitch is stellar, and very aidable. Dan onsighted it, despite it being his 4th trad route or something. Third pitch is very reasonable for the grade, though I French freed anyway. Fourth has some choss, but is mostly soft for 22. Fifth is pumpy as, with a mega grass clutching finale, classic!

first time on Samarkand for both me and the second. Rapped in via abseil route (single plus a half rope which we also used as a haul line for backpack) in 3 abseils. Led all the pitches and got completely smashed by the end of 5th pitch. I also was a bit nervous about timing and making sure I'll have enough juice to finish the leads so I wasn't in proper send mode and rested a lot on gear. Second pitch is definitely mega and middle of the third pitch is really nice too. The rest was average climbing on pretty average rock but the line definitely gets the uber classic status for the position and effort. First pitch slab was completely wet all the way but luckily not very hard. It's also definitely a nice idea to find a way to stick clip first bolt on the second pitch (like 1m stick) coz the start is wet and bouldery. Great day out!

Hot damn, took up eye to eye with the jug. Not sure about the grade of p1,3,4 maybe 20, 22, 21?

10 hours car to car 1 whip, lead them all, hauled them all Was very fun Last rappel is 50m Evolution in bungonia is better still

Some great stuff, some bad stuff. Pitch 2 is hard, pitch 5 never ends and the choss is choss. Shoutout to Seth who sent all of this and Bladderhozen back to back.

Only climbed first two pitches. Fantastic climbing with great exposure and views. Had to bail on third pitch as I was feeling quite stuffed and couldn't do this small slightly overhanging section. The first and second pitch contained quite technical climbing. P1 would have to have been my favourite of all. Looking forward to doing a repeat of Weaselburger in the near future when I'm a stronger climber. P1 - Second with rest, P2 - Second with rest, P3 - Attempted ascent (Second with rest).

The guide has it right: "was great until all the holds fell off". Like a consistantly harder version of the gr21 top pitch of Mirrorball, but on generally worse rock. I fell at the crux -which is only the crux cause everything has broken off- and again further up when I ripped off a hold. The bolting is surprisingly spaced, but safe. Keeps you fighting all the way to the top (40m up from your belayer). A real shame about the rock quality.

Was my first multi for quite some time after shoulder injury and found my stamina just wasn’t up to it, would love to try again

We did the first 3 pitches and then left after reaching the Lunch Ledge due to the wind.

It’s possible I should have logged this as an aid route with all the draws I grabbed...

Almost every pitch on this deserves classic status in its own right. I was hopelessly outclassed on this. Full throttle from the ground.

P1 pulled on the first draw because busting an ankle at the bottom of the route seemed like a poor plan, otherwise clean. P2 yarded through a few moves, some proper hard moves and very sustained. Tried to lead P3 but got shut down at the roof, then on second swung into space and had to jug back up to the rock. P4 possibly soft, points for exposure and committment perhaps? Still a very fun pitch. P5 turns it back on, I was way too cooked for it, excellent movement. P6 is a cool little finish.

Absolutely outstanding route - I need to get stronger and come back for this. Thanks to Damion for pulling through where I couldn't.

needs a rubber mallet it was raining rocks

Someone else can have a go at cleaning the loose holds off now!

damn storm, couldn't get back on for another shot

Fell on p1. Not bad, nice and shady

The worst rock with the most poory placed bolts ever!! The moves are good, what a shame...

rained off the third pitch

The crux got me. Nice technical move, but just didn't have the fingers for it?

Best climb i have done so far. Got all the way to the last clip and took a whip. Rested. Then finished it off. Keen to have another crack to get it clean. I was so amazed by the exposure and the mental challenge of some of the run outs. 10/10.

It wasn't that windy and we still managed to get the rope semi stuck pulling it through after the rap back down from the top. Wouldn't recommend doing this on very windy days.

it just keeps going!

Climbed using 50m rope, there was nothing left when the leader got to the stance. Seconded with a pack - couldn't do the first move and had to rest on a draw once.

End of a long day and first 21 plenty of ugly faces and a couple of rests

Crimps, jugs, slabs, side pools... Very complete climb, it is a hard 21.

Beautiful long climb with awesome view, a bit run out but very juggy. Fantastic climb to round up a Blueys trip

Decent first pitch. Scary chossy second pitch. Was already tired from Darkball, pulled on gear through the roof. Got into a fight with a .3 cam. Probably a bit out of my league but definitely an adventure.

Maybe it was the fatigue after 360m of climbing, maybe it was the heavy pack and snagged rope I was tagging, maybe it was well past sunset and i couldnt see the holds but I found this pretty hard

Long and pumpy and massively run out! Much of the rock is brittle and breaks under the weight of a heavy guy like me.

I actually took a pretty long fall after a whole foothold disintegrated under my foot.

I needed a rest almost at the end because of the pump...

Super long and very sustained. A few spots for rest, but yes very very pumpy