Ascents in Mount Buffalo by Sam North having trad-cpr or ascent-date

Very good. NOTE - The home made aluminium fixed hangers on the top slab are dodgy as fuck. Aluminium (hangers) and stainless steel (bolts) will result in galvanic corrosion; plus aluminium doesn't have the tensile strength of steel and can become brittle with repeat stress loading - and there is stuff all metal at the bottom of the lower of the two hangers. This is definitely unsafe over the long term and the hangers need replacing.

very nice once you work out some protection for the start

Had to top-rope - sketchy place to clip the second bolt from and with too much rope out it didn't look like it would be a nice landing.

what a brilliant way to finish an already great weekend

A great morning out. You can rap in in one pitch if you have two 60 m ropes - but keep drifting right and put a knot in the end of the rope

The first time I led this there was no bolt on the top headwall and it was a real "Buffalo" experience. Now much easier on the head with the added bolt.

Nice moves and at least a grade harder if you stay low under the third hanger and traverse the dyke to Flawed Vision, place the RPs, then finish up Flawed Vision.

Most definitely NOT 17. Steve Toal's BUFFTi guide has this climb at 14, but more like 12 and very well protected

As good as always. New chains at top are a welcome change.

Very very hot in the late afternoon sun, but made bearable by having beers on top and watching the Bogong moths come out and seeing the sun set over the Horn

As good as ever. Done as one pitch.

As good as always and even better in the late afternoon after the sun has gone off it

SN - 1st pitch; NL - 2nd & 3rd pitch to below rooflet at last flake; SN - last pitch.

BEWARE - the hanger has been removed from the first bolt

Pretty strenuous up the head-wall crack. Broke the climb into 2 pitches to avoid rope drag.

crack climbing practice on the top cracks with Marc. As good as ever.

Classic old-style thrutchy climbing not taught in the gym. True to the grade at 17 - as long as you don't bury your hands in the roof crack and use fist jams instead on the outer edge so you can keep your body off the rock to get your feet up. Really nice climbing.

Definitely NOT 14. Steve Toal's BUFTi guide has it at 12, but more like 10

Too pumped after "This is not our land" to get up this. Finding and holding the pinch/sloper hold to get to the second bolt was the crux for me.

Not run-out at the top if you use cams in the pockets

Very nice, varied climbing. The crack at the top is a good test of jamming technique.

has an extra bolt now to make the crux sane

What brilliant climb. Absolutely fantastic, with great position and just enough gear to be sane.

Very hot in the sun. Take lots of #3 camalots. A great lead by Ian around the crux roof and final slab to finish.

If you were looking to take a beginner on a manageable adventure on the Plateau, then this would be a good place to start. Not a bad place to start exploring this cliff, but hot in the afternoon sun.

Absolutely superb

A thoughtful step-over to start.

Good lead by Marc given he doesn't like slabs

A really nice slab, with plenty of exposure thrown in. The belay bolts are hard to see - don't rap over the second roof like we did.

A long an tiring day. Took forever to finish the last "broken" pitch.

Led the first pitch - nervous work on hot rock - and the third - with some creative gear placements.

Hot work, but good fun. Spot the hand holds - all 3 of them. Managed to find all the correct belay points this time.

Always nice. Better to rap using the rings around and up from the top of Home James.

once again for Johnno's photos

As good as always, if not better with age

Someone has been very busy adding a lot of bolts to this route. It's now easy to follow the line of fixed hangers and the bolts are much more sanely placed than the last time I climbed this route.

A good lead by Ben

IB - 1st pitch; SN - 2nd pitch (seconded up the flake start - brilliant)

Pumpy little suker. Should have stemmed across the corner on the first go.

Pitch 1 is the pick of the cliff. Pity it wasn't more accessible.

as good as always