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Routes in The Castle

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Showing all 31 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
12 Phoenix
Trad 12m
13 Tears Begin To Fall

Up the inclined crack to tree, then up face to top. Walk off at rear right.

Trad 12m
16 Pickled Turnip
Unknown 25m
23 Jocey And The Pussy Cats
Trad 18m
21 Silver Girl

New anchor installed Dec 2010 (also services Jocey and the Pussycats).

Mixed trad 18m, 3
16 Corner And Crack

Up ramp and crack to steep double crack finish. Belay from block behind and rap from rings above Silver Girl to descend.

Trad 25m
15 The Crack Corner
Trad 25m
22 Susan's Slab
Unknown 18m
20 Butterflies Are Doodle

up the short groove with natural pro, then stepping onto the delicate arete.

Mixed trad 25m, 3
11 Public doodle

crack L of Butterflies are Doodle. Bridge up between crack and pillar placing gear in the crack, then step into the crack to top and rap chains.

FA: jack jane & Peter Holmes, 11 Nov 2018

Trad 15m
11 Champagne Showers

start up L most crack for a few moves, then continue up the 2 left cracks to top.

FA: jack jane & Olivia Giles, 24 Oct 2021

Trad 23m
23 Public Enema
Unknown 15m
14 Rising Fast (Bangla's Sport Route)

Clip BR before leaving ground. Straight up, clipping FH and BR on the way. Medium cams available in flake to right. Domey top-out and rap chain on right.

Sport 20m
9 Dainty Davey

Now has 1 carrot at half-height, followed by some small to medium cams in horizontal and a bolted belay. Abseil possible.

Trad 15m
19 Unnamed 1
Unknown 25m
17 The Gentle Art Of Lyre-Bird Mugging

Up crack and slab to mantle topout. Rap from chains above Rising Fast (Bangla's Sport Route).

Trad 23m
14 The Hole In The Elephant's Bottom
Unknown 15m
18 The Hereafter
Unknown 23m
20 Variations
Unknown 35m
11 J.C.B.
Unknown 25m
18 In My Gay Pantaloons
Unknown 22m
16 Quiet Area 100 Mts
Unknown 35m
15 Defence Of The Castle
Unknown 35m
20 Mustang Sally
Unknown 25m
20 Young Guns
Unknown 18m
18 Have A Nice Day
Unknown 15m
18 Dead Rat Brand Perfume
Unknown 20m
12 Obvious Crack
Unknown 15m
20 Knitting Notes For The Modern Feminist
Unknown 25m
17 Gilded Willy
Unknown 25m
19 Village Green
Unknown 25m

Showing all 31 routes.

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