Wow.
25m (23) As for Ozymandias.
52m (28) As for Ozymandias.
30m (25) As for Ozymandias. You are now on Big Grassy.
35m (24) As for Ozymandias.
30m (22) As for Ozymandias.
40m (28) The roof and orange corner pitch. Follows bolts R to rejoin the line of Direct below the first big roof. Swing out through the roof and up gorgeous orange corner, then move R below Gledhill bivvy to belay on arete (as for Lord Gumtree).
35m (22) Follow crack L and behind the Pontooth, then up more cracks (passing aid belay) to DBB at base of chimney.
15m (10) Up the chimney to ledge with plaque. Can be linked with the next (or previous) pitch.
20m (24) The offwidth corner. Take some big cams and go for it. Belay off a tourist (or use the handrail if there are no tourists about).
1988 | First free ascent:
Steve Monks, Jane Wilkinson & pitches 1-5 Pitches 1-5, finishing up Ozy original |
---|---|
1995 | First free ascent:
Steve Monks, Jane Wilkinson & pitches 4-9 Pitches 4-9, starting on Big Grassy |
2005 | Notable ascent:
Lee Cossey & first continuous ascent First Continuous Free Ascent |
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
28 | Assigned grade |
★★★Cameron Roy | |
28 | ★★★ Mt Buffalo |
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes.
Overall quality 100 from 2 ratings.
Author(s): Simon Murray and Kevin Lindorff
Date: 2006
"The Mt Buffalo - A rock climbers guide is the definitive climbing guide book for the granite wonderland of Mt Buffalo. This area is for adventure climbing and for those that love the higher mountain landscapes and rock formations that are unique to the area. Mt Buffalo offers both single and multi-pitch climbs and mainly uses trad gear for protection but there is the odd sport climb around for those that only want to clip bolts.
The Mt Buffalo - A rock climbers guide is the definitive climbing guide book for the granite wonderland of Mt Buffalo. This area is for adventure climbing and for those that love the higher mountain landscapes and rock formations that are unique to the area. Mt Buffalo offers both single and multi-pitch climbs and mainly uses trad gear for protection but there is the odd sport climb around for those that only want to clip bolts. This 234 page guide is the most comprehensive guide for Mt Buffalo and even though being the 5th edition released in 2006, is the latest version."
Author(s): Lindorff, Goding & Hodgson
Date: 2011
ISBN: 9780646529387
Get ready to fully experience the rock climbing scene in Victoria with Sublime Climbs, a comprehensive guidebook authored by Kevin Lindorff, Josef Goding, and Jarrod Hodgson. This full-color, 380-page book covers the best climbing locations in the region, including Mt Arapiles, Mt Buffalo, and the Grampians. It features descriptions of over 700 routes, topographic maps, and breathtaking images. Whether you're a seasoned pro or new to the sport, Sublime Climbs has everything you need to make the most of your climbing experience in Victoria and experience all of it's classic routes.
Author(s): Chris Baxter & Glenn Tempest
Date: 1994
ISBN: 0646167308
A Guide to selected rockclimbs at Mt Arapiles,the Grampians and Mt Buffalo
Unknown on ★★★ Ozymandias Direct (free version) 28 - IMG_2328.JPG
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