Seriously awesome corner crack feature. Originally done in two pitches, these days it's usually done in one. Unless you like bumping gear, two #4 and a few #3 camalots are recommended.
To access, scramble down Burston’s gulley (or rap off a tree at the top with a 60m rope).
Up the dirty looking start to ledge, then into the corner. Follow the crack to roof, with memorable moves around right, then follow seam to tree belay.
Giant Offwidth/trench going straight up of the first belay of Caligula.
"Typhon was known as the “Father of All Monsters.” Birthed from Gaia (the earth) and Tartarus (the depths of hell), he was said to have been the most ferocious creature ever to roam the earth."
From the 2 carrot belay, traverse left (looking in) and down to good ledges before moving up past a carrot and onto the arete. Up the arete past a few more bolts and a few cam placements.
A stunning line, and quite smooth jamming (for Mt Buffalo). A couple of #3 Camalots, a #4 and even a #5, or equivalent sized cams, would be useful. The first pitch is 'the business' but the much easier (technically) second pitch is tight, awkward and virtually devoid of protection.
24m. The crack to a ledge.
24m. Squirm up the chimney, traverse left to the large chockstones.
27m Up.
FA:Mike Stone, Ian Ross (alts), April '72 (18 M3) & Roland Pauligk April '75
