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Routes in The Horn Area for selected grade

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Showing all 14 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
The Mothballs
23 Head First

Was originally very 'go-ey' with just 1 high bolt (Hence the name). Now sane with 3 FHs. Start as for Robert Dazzler but instead of angling up left, head straight up.

  1. Reach across to the arete from the slopey boulder to clip the first FH. You will need either a particularly attentive belayer or a long clip stick to protect the climbing to the second FH. Straight up past the 3rd FH (crux) to the ledge and a rap/lower off.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Tony Marian, 1991

Sport 15m, 3
Dreamworld
21 - 23 Injustice

The left arête of the west-most face. 3 carrot bolts, one fixed hanger and a couple of sling placements.

Grade varies greatly dependant on height, grade 21 if over 6', much harder if shorter.

Mixed trad 15m, 4
23 Death Can Be Fatal
Unknown 25m
Roadside Boulder
V3 Scrambled cignall

Right hand start on sloper, slap to top

FA: Zin

Boulder 3m
V3 Non receptive

Up the prow direct

FA: Zin, 16 Feb 2022

Boulder 3m
The Horn
23 Heart Starter
Unknown 40m
23 Paparazzi Nazi

The arete R of (and a tad harder than) Glitterati.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Malcolm Matheson (Jan '98)

Sport 15m, 4
23 Glitterati

The centre of the block right of the Hoi Polloi arete (R of and down a little from the summit block and above the first pitch of Buttocks). Up past 4BRs.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Mike Wust ('83)

Sport 20m, 4
23 Things That Go Bump In The Night
Unknown 15m
23 Miss Otis Regrets
Unknown 12m
23 Artful Doger
Unknown 14m
Wall Of China
23 The Dyke Next Door

Prominent thin crack up the boulder at the head of the Wall Of China Gully. Bolt belay. Abseil off.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Tony Marion, 1989

Trad 15m
23 Flicker

Quite good. The two old thin carrots have been replaced by 3 new stainless steel expansion bolts with FHs.

Start as for 'Gawker Direct Finish'. Climb the corner until 2 metres below the roof. Move left around the fang of rock on the arete and up the face past 3FHs, to finish at a fixed anchor - 2 old carrots requiring brackets plus a new (Oct '23) FH with ring.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Peter Lindorff, 1982

Mixed trad 20m, 2
23 Tienanmen Square

The prominent crack right of 'Gawker Direct Finish'

FA: Steve Monks & Ian Anger, 1992

Trad 20m

Showing all 14 routes.

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