Routes in Glacier Rock

Bolted line starting just left of the gentle aréte at the first amphitheater you turn into. Fun partial cruxy move mid way.

The crack in the corner toward the left of the first amphitheater you turn into. Is climbed breaking the crack into 2 pitches.

1. 20m (18) Ground to cave mid way. Belay out of this.

2. 25m (18) Then up crack and slab. Up semi overhang to ledge.

Has 2 rappel bolts (spread far apart - be wary). Alternatively traverses right and up to a bolted anchor to rappel (take link as are hangers). Steep in parts. Has great views of Cairns and Green Island.

This traditional climbing line will get you from the base of the cliff all the way directly to the lookout at the top of Glacier Rock where you can walk out without rappelling back to the ground (so take everything with you), go light, take 2 ropes (in case of need to rappel), slings & biners, a double rack of cams, and a quicklink in case.

1. 45m (18) 'F#ck the Juggernaut' - Start as for Juggernaut following 45m part offwidth part stellar hand jam crack directly up corner but link into a single pitch. Great movements. Can place protection on slab as well as climb on this when the crack is a little chossy mid way. Head up and around over hang then slightly up and right to small cave on ledge to set up natural belay.

2. 10m (17) 'Bouldering on a Multi Pitch' - Head up and right on black slab to lip. Place a piece early and run out to lip. Semi committing move. Once past lip and on ledge set up anchor using either natural pro or bolted anchor on floor. Now look up to see mighty proud white slab (this is your heading).

3. 25m (14) 'Of Choss and Vegetation' - Again, place an early piece then head up chunky arete right next to belay (can muscle up or commit to slab/arete). After this you will topout into vegetation, follow this to large boulders placing some solid pieces and climb straight up and slightly left (be mindful of loose rock - choss). Continue past this through veg to base of slab. Extend gear (reducing drag) and head up a few metres then right to make natural belay on top of boulders below mighty proud white slab.

4. 20m (18) 'Cracked System' - Traverse slightly right to base of bouldery crack system (can set up a more direct belay here to reduce drag). Head straight up following bouldery cracks into short roof hand jam crack. Stellar sick moves (especially if your feet cut ). Head up a few metres to obvious solid boulder to set up anchor in cracks (Take a 0.1 cam as it is vital for the natural belay! - Bomber). The proud white slab is up for grabs and has cracks for pro - can access from lookout to send in isolation.

5. 50m (8) 'Scramble to The Top' - Head straight up on left side of belay slinging trees as you go for peace of mind. After a wee while the lookout trees will emerge (large shiny and strong). Belay off these and high-five your partner/party as they reach the belay, saying hi to any hikers who may pass by during the process .

Ethic: Wear helmets, climb cautiously and understand the escape points (bolted anchor atop pitch 2 - requires mallions - or semi dodgy looking rappel rings atop pitch 1). This climb surprisingly has some shade all day on the tops of pitch 1 and pitch 3 - good for recuperating.

Lower area - far right climb (higher up slope)

Lower area - central climb (next to/alongside MLJ)

Lower area - far left climb (lower down slope)

Links TT to the top of pitch 2 of MegaLuv following dihedral. Thereby a trad link between 2 sport anchors/lines.

From the lower section of Glacier in the shaded alcove, walk around the large boulder and start at 2m long hand crack below small slab (you will see first bolt above you). This crack start has been said to be the hardest part for those who don't hand jam well, but is honestly pretty chill.

Will need 16 draws plus anchor/belay setup (or 18 draws). First pitch is quick draw hungry.

1. 30m (19, mild crux) Up short crack and onto mini slab following bolts past overhang (might want to extend a draw). Traverse to right gaining mild exposure and up wall again following bolts. Keep climbing until you reach ledge with dirt and trees. Ring and chains here to belay off.

2. 28m (17) Traverse to the right (keep an eye out for the bolts as they become elusive). After about 3 bolts head up mild rounded arete onto mega jug hauling and decent exposure (be sure to look back at the view). Follow up line to large 2nd ledge at base of far right tree. Here there is another chain and ring setup. Be sure to use this anchor to belay and not to rappel!!! There is an anchor further to the left to rappel later (following string, stay on belay). Next pitch goes up from this far right anchor.

3. 18m (16) Head up slightly left from anchor following bolts to right of arete-feature, up to prow (big ledge, like a ship's bow! ). Here the belay anchor is on the ledge on flat ground - not wall - good to belay while sitting. Chains and ring again.

4. 12m (18, 2nd crux - style change) Stay on belay to walk to huge rock block to begin climb, can belay from tree. Here is the most unexpected part of the climb - the gnarly slab. Follow either left arete or central-right face climb (depends if you like slopers or gnarly micro edges/crimps - using quartz veins, recommended). Follow slab up to ledge where same anchor type as previous is. Fits up to 5 people on ledge. Bit squishy.

Escape:

This line requires a rappel off due to it not topping out.

To rappel from pitch 4 use ring at top of slab to get back to anchors at top of pitch 3.

Rappel from top of pitch 3 anchor's ring (be sure it isn't twisted!) to get to top of Pitch 2.

HERE YOU MUST NOT RAPPEL FROM ANCHOR AT TOP OF PITCH 2, IT WILL BE TOO LONG OF A RAPPEL! Follow paracord along ledge, to the left when looking at the wall (stay on belay) to anchor about halfway along paracord length. Here rappel from ring as before (60m rope minimum). When at bottom be sure to flick rope when pulling as it has been known to get caught in the wall.

Walk right along ledge past tree (safety to this) to use the anchor ring at top of pitch 1 to rappel back to the ground. Tie knots! Use a prussic! - this rappel is airy.

Also there is an escape from the very left hand side of the top of pitch 2. This is a bush scramble down from the left of the far left rappel anchor. It takes you back down to the bottom bringing you out to the left of the start of the first pitch. Still be careful, steep and loose as there is no real track here, but works in dire need.

Ethic:

Be safe, wear helmets (some loose rock- would otherwise be 3 star), take all rubbish from area, respect wildlife, vegetation, rock and hardware.