What an incredible outing (4/5/23). Kudos to the team that went to the monstrous effort to bolt and access this!
Set out after midday to ideally climb in the shade. Started walking in at 2.30pm. Was a bit of a machete job but was easy enough of a track to follow (via a well written guide). Got to the wall and started the climb at 4.30pm, an absolutely perfect time as the sun was just passing. Had an amazing golden hour sunset atop pitch 1. Very glad Nick got to lead a pitch on his first ever multi, being pitch 2. I then got to jump on the crux in the dark with a headlamp under a full moon, and with a bit of looking while holding on and playing back and forth with sequences, I got a juicy onsite of this plus a tiny bit of pump from the sus. Beauty of a sequence I thought, fair for the grade. Awesome to top belay Nick on his 2nding flash of this too with the sequence beta. Yieew! Walkie talkies are rad. Then ran to the top by linking the final 2 pitches and sticking to the shoeless and chalkless ethic of the finale. Topped out at 8.30pm. A 2 hour simul rap with Nick made for a short and fun descent. Stunned.
R.e. the rating, the effort is a million stars, the view a solid 10, the rock unfortunately not so much. Had me stressed every 2nd hold was going to break (which quite a few of did). The anchor at the top of pitch 4 also really needs rings on the hangers . Thought it was an odd anchor choice atop pitch 3 when there is a beautiful cave 3m to the left, or a clear ledge 2m to the right (belaying amidst the tendrals of a lantana was kind of underwhelming). But my oh my the crux was uber fun. 3 star. Would say 3 star classic if not for the choss factor. Everything else was class.
Next time I'd extend more draws on pitch 1 to link pitches 1 and 2. Then do pitch 3. Then link 4 and 5 again for a 3 pitch total climb. Also would take the 80m rope to link some raps instead of the 60. Fantabulous. A fine addition to the region.
First multi, excellent experience. Comfy lead on the short 16 pitch and seconded up the rest. Big thanks to the guys who put it up, a huge amount of work for a climb that won't see much traffic. Highly recommend to anyone up here, works really well with an arvo start and some night climbing, excellent day out!
Nick linked P1&2 with a gazillion extenders, I lead P3, then 2nded P4&5 after Nick linked them too. Cleared the lantana atop P3, and installed new rap anchors atop P4. Linked raps for P5&4 and P3&2 with the 80m. All worked really well, no drag. Cleaned up nicely. 2pm ish walk in start, 4pm climb start, 8pm topout, 10pm walkout, 11.30pm car. Home midnight ish. Swell day.
Back for a second crack at it. Much smoother walk in thanks to Jared's machete track clean up last time.
Extended almost everything to link pitch 1 and 2, still plenty of drag but manageable, pitch 2 is pretty much all straight up and easy climbing. Take lots of draws if you link them, I came up short by 2 or 3 at the top of P2. Linking worked well with an 80m and Jared's beta.
Another great day out, really happy to get the experience in on lead, even if it was slow and steady... Cheers Jared for the patience!
- with
Nick Springall
Set out after midday to ideally climb in the shade. Started walking in at 2.30pm. Was a bit of a machete job but was easy enough of a track to follow (via a well written guide). Got to the wall and started the climb at 4.30pm, an absolutely perfect time as the sun was just passing. Had an amazing golden hour sunset atop pitch 1. Very glad Nick got to lead a pitch on his first ever multi, being pitch 2. I then got to jump on the crux in the dark with a headlamp under a full moon, and with a bit of looking while holding on and playing back and forth with sequences, I got a juicy onsite of this plus a tiny bit of pump from the sus. Beauty of a sequence I thought, fair for the grade. Awesome to top belay Nick on his 2nding flash of this too with the sequence beta. Yieew! Walkie talkies are rad. Then ran to the top by linking the final 2 pitches and sticking to the shoeless and chalkless ethic of the finale. Topped out at 8.30pm. A 2 hour simul rap with Nick made for a short and fun descent. Stunned.
R.e. the rating, the effort is a million stars, the view a solid 10, the rock unfortunately not so much. Had me stressed every 2nd hold was going to break (which quite a few of did). The anchor at the top of pitch 4 also really needs rings on the hangers
. Thought it was an odd anchor choice atop pitch 3 when there is a beautiful cave 3m to the left, or a clear ledge 2m to the right (belaying amidst the tendrals of a lantana was kind of underwhelming). But my oh my the crux was uber fun. 3 star. Would say 3 star classic if not for the choss factor. Everything else was class.
Next time I'd extend more draws on pitch 1 to link pitches 1 and 2. Then do pitch 3. Then link 4 and 5 again for a 3 pitch total climb. Also would take the 80m rope to link some raps instead of the 60. Fantabulous. A fine addition to the region.