Routes in Trackside Boulders

Start as for Boogers but instead of moving right muscle up through runnel gastoning slopes either side.

Denial is everything. A warm up for the real thing. Start as for DA but pop to the intermediate jug (big high square cut) on Sucker Punch and up.

This ones a cracker. As per Ode low sit to gain RH layaway then tricky move or two right along lip of hung slab then up... easier, but not easy.

Sit start as for Sucker Punch (or alternately on edges left end of face) then traverse right to gain LH crimp and higher RH side pull below mini jug. Up to jug then slopey top out.

SDS as for Black Star Oblivion joining and finishing up Firestorm. Best parts of both problems.

Stand start with good holds, climb the wide arete.

SDS Short steep face starting with a pinch with pocket thumb catch for the right and low sidepull for the left. Long pull to the sidepull up left midway along the diagonal seam then onto jugs. Holds on and near the arete are off route.

SDS Pocket for the left and crimps for the right. Pop up then lip traverse up right

The Entry to gain the arete then left via the early crux of speedball to gain Toot and up as for that.

The original way it was done

But how far? A warm up to be sure. Start as for DA and up by whatever means fair or foul.

Surprisingly tricky mantle low ball. Sit start on slopey jug rail and mantle/press/ooze castle hill style via razors and left facing flakes.

Sit start matched on jug. Move right, then up laying off sloping rails and crimps. Start jug is now quite loose (1/02/19)

Eliminate. SDS on left end of the face. Traverse right on crimps while staying below the top (eliminating the top lip). Instead of RH side pull use low RH crimp and LH gaston to dyno directly to slope edge finish (eliminating intermediate holds in between the dyno and top). Surprisingly tricky.

Can also be done with the top lip at a similar (if not easier grade) but is not the way it was first ascended.

Stand start matched on right most high recessed juggy incut.

Hug your way around the nose using the grooves over the top, topping out when your feet reach the recessed inverted dish.

SDS on opposing sidepulls

Stand start with good edges, climb the face.

SDS Right side of the arete

As it says on the label. Thin holds lead to good edges as the wall steepens. SDS from low right facing edges

Sit start, make a big move to the left horn. Watch out, as the horn was loose. May break off. Make your way upwards towards the right and top out. Quite a slippery climb. Someone please suggest grade as I am unsure of grading outdoors.

Direct eliminate straight up from the slot. SDS on the good edges just below the slot. Pull on and pop to the juggy slot. From this go straight up to the sloping LH gaston, rock on and up to the RH sidepull crimp up and slightly right of the gaston then pull off this to the break. Up easily.

SDS on the left side of the short concave face into the scoop.

Sit start up over bulge using many jugs

A variant to Airtime. A bigger jump to a better hold. Sit start right of Scar face using the same holds as Airtime (LH gaston, RH low crimp). Instead of dynoing to sloping lip, go big to the jug to the right (not the one below the top). Mantle finish.

Eliminate. Sit down start at Sucker Punch and traverse right to the start hands of Dynoholics Anonymous without using the line of incut jugs near the top. Move up into the start jug of Coke Nose and finish as per that climb.

SDS Straight up from the jug via sidepulls, gaston and left edge of the runnel. Rebrushed after 20 years when first developed.

Stand start below the so-called crack-like thingy.

SDS Direct start to Big John avoiding the large starting holds of Tempest. Instead use a gaston edge for the left hand and thin sidepull with thumb catch for the right. The move is about 12 inches but still tougher and more technical than the other 4s down here. V5.

SDS. Up veering slightly left.

Eliminates the arete of STS for hands, feet and hooks and also the big juggy blob at the top of the lower face (mostly so it doesn’t fall off and kill you). Sit start as for sally (or lower if you can do it without Arete). Hard first move to obvious sloper just inside the arete about a metre above the RH start hold then left to juggy horn. Move up past tree without using it (the tree, not the horn 🤦) to gain good holds on mossy upper arete and face to top out. Best not to fall off above tree. Actually climbs pretty well for contrived nonsense.

Sit start same as SNS. Move right and up and top out at the same point.

Not the Bards best work... SDS just to the right of BDSM starting on a sidepull with the right and BDSM starting crimp for the left. Up to the sidepull scoop for the left and straight up to the shelf above with the right.

SDS middle of the concave face to jugs

Sit start, traverse left under overhang on good holds, then up.

Stand start with opposing gaston jugs in North Runnel. Establish feet and dyno to big jug up on NE arete. Finish easily up, down, wherever. If start with LH on the RH jug makes a nice V1 warm up.

Sit down start with left hand on arete and right hand on the pinch in the middle of the overhanging face. Go straight up, and then make a big move right at the crack to the jugs of Glenfiddich and up as per that climb. Use of hands on the arete above the crack is out/drops a grade. A direct version from the start straight to the jugs adds a grade.

Stand start and climb the short face into the runnel.

Rising traverse. SDS from crimps finishing across right.

Traverse the entire boulder. Start left of SnS where the tree is. Traverse right and top out when you reach the edge of the boulder.

SDS good edge to start. Sidepulls above to jugs.

SDS right side of the concave face with crimps above to hidden incut in the slab above.

Sit start as per Boogers. Up and left via crimps or direct via sloper/right hand side pull (easier). Good problem. Start hold is now quite loose (1/02/19)

Diabolical and largely worthless lowball eliminate climbing NW arete from very lowest possible start (LH finger slope, RH lowest layaway) Slopers, slimps and layaways trending slightly right to gain the obvious square cut finger jug edges at ~10feet. All pockets eliminated. May get easier as the holds clean up.

Pointless eliminate. Sit start on tree with pinches and edges on rib of arete only (as per toddler marked topo!)

Start as for NF but stay below overlap and continue right to join NR at LH start jug and finish as for this.

Stand start at near the decent tree, and traverse the entire boulder. About the same grade regardless of height above the ground.

SDS left hand pinch, right hand very low undercling. Up the right side of the arete.

SDS at Turning Point, traversing right to left across the full face and exiting above the start of First Step

Sit down start at the two good jugs just below (and right) of the huge slot jug. Up using any holds except for the big foot shelf to the left.

Can be started from the thin edges on the 45° rock for a harder grade.

Nice problem. SDS Middle of the bulging downhill face via the large sidepull to gastons. Into the sloping scoop then top.

SDS as for Precious veering rightish via sidepulls and eliminating the hidden incut on that problem.

SDS low in the cave. Crimp and compress your way up and left on the impressive nose, to better holds over the bulge.

Start with hands matched on obvious pinchy jug above the low layaway (on the nose, not the undercling/layaway 1.5m further left). Campusing out the jugs to exit is about V3/4. Quite fun alternative for when you've conceded defeat on the heinously steep start.

Sit start to PTYP using very low LH side pull about 18inches off the deck. Adds a grade.

Far left end of Roach boulder, SDS with good low hold for left, pinch undercling with pocket for right - slap up

Probably about V3. Sit start on STS would get it to 4.

Stand start on the double pockets at the end of the boulder near Sally the Slapper. Traverse right and finish up the Twelfth Night. Crux is the move from about King John into the jugs of the Twelfth Night.

Sit start in the same position but move towards the right. Start lower on the thin edge for a harder grade.

SDS just to the right of Sisyphus traversing left across the bulging face to finish up Tantalus

SDS Up veering slightly left

SDS. side pulls to jugs

SDS sidepulls to start with shelf feet. Gaston, sidepull top.

Hollow positive hold at the start has been pulled off so problem has been upgraded after feedback.

Sit start on obvious low jug layaway immediately in front of wombat hole and roll up to layaways and mossy face above. Perhaps avoid at dusk.

SDS just right of 8 Ball, directly below shallow V groove, left hand on low sidepull, right on high crimp - up

SDS the face on the southern side of the boulder (3m left of Sally the slapper). Low jug, side pull up L to a thin slot and top.

Hard sit start using undercling crimps and RH layaway. An eliminate without good layaway should be possible but pretty grunty. Differing opinions of which is easier, this or the measure sit.

SDS Left side of the arete

Sit start and head straight up without using the big holds on either side of the route (hands or feet). Hard to keep pure! Reminiscent of the slab V4 at Andersons except dirty with mosquitos!

SDS right side of the downhill face to jugs

Pleasant juggy right to left traverse starting where the boulder touches the track. Been done as a SDS, but better as a standing start. Top out at the left end of the face.

Around the right side of the boulder facing uphill.

Easy stand start. SDS goes at about V3.

SDS Traverse left from Tempest to the arete and up.

If instead of finishing up, you finish down into the starting holds of sally the slapper, and controlledly end in a sit down finish it makes for a fun V3 or so.

Obvious bulged prow/arete right end of boulder. Sit start on obvious low flake (gentle... it needs to be pinned). Tricksy feet to gain slopes then cool paste on edges and compression straight up the prow. A cooler harder variant will lip traverse right to gain the brilliant but easy hanging slab.

The half traverse...SDS in middle of wall. RH on vertical sidepull, LH on good crimp jug. Up to slot, match and across left into and up 8 Ball...very cool

Standing start with hands on the lip. Originally graded V1 but a few crankers have failed to get up it in recent weeks! Could be that it’s hard to find a stylish way, could be that they are closet weaklings that finesse up much harder graded spirt routes or it could be it was a sandbag. Tough for V1 now tough for V2!

Great! Technical more than hard. But not easy! RH slopers, LH Gaston edge. Tension climbing to gain slope lip of the stand.

SDS hollow undercling and face just right of the arete.

Left hand in edge, right on low slope jug way down right in seam. Climb up to gain right Arete. Pretty average.

The bush closes in after dark. Powerful start off opposing razor blade Gaston’s left of S. Hard to gain lip independent of the big holds either side. Up tenuous scoop as for S. V4 or 5.

SDS Diagonally up left

SDS on crimps up to a one-move-wonder to the high edge.

Stand start with hands on the lip. Keep slapping up on cool slopers. SDS adds difficulty and style.

SDS left of the tree. Okay first few moves. Undecided if deserving a proper cleaning or best left to return to its natural state and forgotten...

Open for business... The full traverse from right to left. SDS on Molly's big undercling, dropping down through start holds of Speedfreak, eliminating crimps on Toot, and finishing up 8 Ball.

Sit start out of the wombat hole on sharp edges (left one well left under fallen tree... if you start on the 2 close edges take a grade off). Hard moves up and slightly right via sharp crimps to exit left of nose goblin (you never make it as far right as the slope). The left hand lip of the boulder is also out.

Around right from the front face is a very short, over hung face capped by an uncleared hanging slab. Deceptive sit start on pinchy lay aways to gain slopes on lip (big jug up right is out) then get your mantle on. A Castle Hill (god’s own) mantle it is not!

Sit start at start of JT (by tree) and up easily on jugs.

Much ado Sit, reverse the Yumegiwa traverse and finish up Measure for Measure. Full value. PS... slopes and jugs around corner to right are out... should you feel inclined.

Left to right traverse of the face. Again like Sidetracked has been done from a SDS but better started standing. Finish on the slabby trackside face.

Beautiful, easy face.

SDS. Move right and up from the starting holds of Tempest

SDS off the crimp rail in the dish. Balancy moves lead straight up above the top of the depression.

Sit start on the crimps of roach and low left gaston (more like V5 if both hands on Roach’s crimps) and head left via gaston and pinch (without using the rail on roach) to gain Jugs on arete and up.

Low sit start 1.5m left of NG jugs at poor left hand slimp and obvious flat cut edge for right (if starting with the incut crimp on right hand give yourself solid V4). Hard moves via sharp crimps to gain the LHV of NG. Jugs on standard start out for feet also.

Low sit start at right end of face on LH crimp layaway and RH crimp. Once your ass is off jack long to a slopey divot on the right up over the top. Might be easier if you have span. Might not.

PTYP sit first moves to edges then traverse hard right at same level (not up to large lay away or jugs in the scoop of PTYP) via some tech thin moves to gain blunt arete. Up via slopey edges to gain right end of scoop and up. Someone’s done some brushing here recently... who knows if climbed. Can be climbed from a low stand on the blunt arete at about V4 and will have a very hard direct sit start.

No less worthwhile than most of the others. Sit start at obvious line of jugs between the V2s and PAL.

SDS on two crimpy gastons, slap up to sloper, pinch and pocket, then continue up the arete.

SDS left end. Low traverse of the face keeping below the line marked for Sidetracked. Grade is variable depending on which holds are eliminated.

SDS with pockets, head up with some big moves between great holds.

SDS Overhung juggy left arete