Routes in Cathedral Rock National Park

Start: Below a crack with a 'rock cowpat' at about head height. The climb takes the crack which leads to superb climbing out left.

1. 27m. (crux) Tricky move up over 'cowpat' and up the crack to a small roof. From here swing left to the V-groove. Up this to belay on ledge. On last inspection the 'rock cowpat' was sound, but pull down and not out!

2. 8m. Straight up the large corner/crack. Abseil off the back via a very large bollard.

Start: As for T.M. The chossy crack, then move out right onto the wall. Stephens performed an excellent backward somersault, with pike, when a chicken head snapped off the slab.

1. 22m. (crux) Up choss and good crack to small roof of T.M., then move out right and up juggy wall and fine short slab. Belay on ledge as for T.M.

2. 8m. As for pitch 2 of Tontons Macoutes, The wide crack/corner. Abseil off large bollard at the back of the pinnacle.

Start: The chimney approx. 10m. left of 'We Wont Get Fooled Again'.

1. 30m. Chimney then jam to the top.

Start: A left facing chimney that gets wider higher up.

1. 35m. Easy chimneying leads to harder chimneying at half height. Pro is spaced out on the top half. Take large gear.

Start: The crack 2m. right of the big flake on the overhanging wall.

1. 25m. Up overhanging crack (crux) , move into crack on left, and up corner, step right to a big flake. Up flake to belay on top of it.

2. 15m. Up crack on left and step right and easy ground to top.

Start: Up on a ledge on the right-hand end of the main cliff, past Bangin Beava. A great introduction to hand jamming.

1. 20m. A short chimney section leads to a classic hand crack.

Start: Start in a gully at the right-hand end of the main cliff, just left of 'Cheap Regrets' 5m right of 'Day Dream'.

1. 22m. 4m. Up the gully, then step left around the tree, then up the diagonal crack, with a short delicate slab finish.

Start: Just left of Soft Touch, a rounded lowangled arete, harder than it looks. Take a sling for a nubbin runner. A very serious lead.

1. 20m. Giggle at the grade and motor up to a stance above steep section. Shake shit from your pants and go for the top. Stop shaking and set up a suss belay.

Start: Best do this in summer. A chimney with a chockstone at about half-way. I can’t remember where it starts. Not far from the Western end of the cliff.

1. 40m. Up twin cracks then left to base of chimney. Out and around a squeeze then deeper into chimney. Up the crack deep in the chimney (crux) , move up to and squeeze inside the chockstone, then up to belay where chimney becomes horizontal.

2. 23m. Follow the horizontal chimney through to the other side of the mountain.

Inspiring project up the trad crack and upper arete. May need a bolt on the top section.

Offwidth crack

Can be top roped from anchors of AB. Needs #5 + #6

Technical face climbing on incuts and then intricate arete and wall to get to the top of the boulder. Classic. May be easier/harder but who knows how to grade blunt arête slab cruxes?

At the right edge of the Thylacine Face. Awkward jump start can gain the finger-jug rail at 3m. The real challenges will be doing this from a sit start on the little arete, and/or continuing up the face via small flake. Both are very hard.

Located Between the 2 large boulders. Very Short but due to location is a route rather than a boulder problem. Will get your heart pumping.

Straight up the face from the boulder. Balance your way up fused seam and on to the right.

Up arete on the left side of Pedestal. Tricky and Thin. Same Anchors as for AB

5 bolts to twin rings. Stick clip first two and start in corner. Get a good belayer, you don't want loads of slack here. The bloc behind is out.

Technical climbing to a heart breaking crux finish. In summer, climb in the evening.

Starts up the middle of the pinnacle and steps left into Seam. Top out and use anchors on right face. you can also continue to traverse right past anchors if you want to top out the boulders

Old school lay backing on stellar stone. Straight up.

Head up layback to jug then step left onto face and across to flake on arete and up

The hardest bolted line out at the crag and likely the broader region? Jump on it and have a crack. Even the easy start Isn't.

Start on the back side of the Pedestal by either going up the chimney or jumping from other boulder. Climb low angled slab to anchors as for AB. If you want to top out the big boulders you can continue past anchors on rightward traverse at about grade 15.

This is what granite is all about! This tenuous slab is found just round to the left of Body Painter. Bridge off the block and lurch onto the slab. The thin line trends up the vague scoop past two bolts, with a finish that will stay with you for some time. Probably E4/5 6b in real money. Medium cams to belay. The direct start from the floor is an open project, it goes but will need a cold day.

To access the top of the route - from the block with the Painter loweroff on it, jump across the gap and abseil 3m down to the finish ledge.

Open proj. Extended thin bouldering up left side of slab to better holds at half height.

The left side of the main face is brilliant. Start at a crimpy flake, up vertical wall via very technical moves on small holds, easing slightly high up. Finish via a vertical slot to lower-off just over the lip. 3 bolts. Might be 23.

Face and step left, a bit scary

Start on the big broken flake, it’s solid, pull up to a crimp then up to the flake side pulls, mantle to finish. Sit start.

Sit start the burly giant flake and struggle over the bulge (kneebar optional).

Start on the biggest jug, up through the pocket the veer left

Start on obvious blocky jug, climb arete

Stand start straight up the slab choose your own adventure. Plenty to pull on.

Crack

SDS, left hand in sloper dish right hand on big flake, burly moves to gain the jugs above. Top out

Thin slab starting 1m left of Problem 2. Trends left at the top. A direct finish up the high slab awaits.

Start matched on the bottom of the rail with knees under the cave, mantle and up. Can finish as for Hump or more directly straight up

Perfect letterbox start to hard crimping

Stand start straight up the slab pretty straight forward. Fun

Over Hung Featured Arete

Stand start on the jugg rail straight up to top out. Nice easy one.

Sit start the crimpy diagonal flake. Rock onto this, up slab via crimps, then airy finish up the the slabby nose above.

Start under the bean in the best finger slot. Traverse through roof and either up to right or directly up. Various harder starts further left, or further back under the cave.

Blunt arête

start on nice rail below left arete and mantle onto boulder

Sit start, hands on the jugg flake, up to top out via a few crimps.

Sit start under the overhang at sidepull. Pull up and over the right side of the nose via technical moves. Great!

Start at the Underbelly and link under through magic bean out other side.

Arete with features down low and a totally blank topout

Stand start, use good ledge to go straight up.

Start as for left arete but continue lip traverse

Stand start hands on juggs then mantle, top out.

Sit start on flake, up and over bulge.

Opposite arête of Sharkfin boulder, in the corridor behind Sabbatical. SDS on the jug and climb crimps to top out

Sit start, good crimps for hands straight up using the arete to mantle a top out. Fun

Start on left side of flake, traverse

Boulder is found just round left from Humpback Whale by a tree. Stand start. Use flake and a high step to use a mantle up to crimps to top out. Great !

Stand start. Over bulge and up smeary slab to top of boulder.

The boulder directly to the left of Sharkfin Rodeo

Sit start same as WOAP, gain the break then traverse right to the end for two mantles to top out. Pumpy.

start on right side of flake, traverse

Start on crimps for both hands, straight up to lip then slap up again for an easy mantle.

Stand start. Tricky moves up blunt nose just right of Wildcat, then on up slab.

Awesome looking highball, opposite side of the boulder to Sharingan. Start on high crimps. Potential for a lower start.

Stand start, left hand side pull right hand crimp, straight up to gain the diagonal seam then top out. Great.

Sit start and up crack

Stand start a on big flake then either stand up or throw out to the left arete then mantle. The throw is way more Fun!

Walk round behind Thylacine/Sabretooth to find a corridor on the back of the main block. Jump start off a broken sidepull to the high flake. Shorties may need to stack a pad to reach the starting holds. Mantling the flake and finishing up the wall would be worthwhile but would need a bolt.

Start standing, use the diagonal seam to work your way up left then top out.

Up Tending Left

Stand start, use right and left hand side pulls to pull on, then go straight up for decent holds to a tricky mantle. Rad!

Climb the right side of the slab, starting off the pointy block at two shallow pockets. Technical start, easing above.

Stand start, using crimps follow the seam slightly right then come back slightly left and head up through a great top out. Good

Straight up cracked Face

As for Monsoon but continue direct over bulge up twin cracks.

Sitter up the steep arete

Stand start on side pull and positive edges, straight up to top out.

Traverse the rail to the jug. extension into Big V awaits

Undercut the rightward-trending diagonal crack to juggy flakes.

Stand start on the arete (right hand gaston flake, left hand on blunt arete). Pull on and slap to slopey jug, continue direct.

Start n good edge with both hands , get feet on throw up to next good edge. Then easy to top.

On the back side of the Trigrams cluster. Even less fun than the name suggests. Stand start, sitter awaits someone bored.

Sit Start climb big V then slab top out

3m right of Monsoon is a vegetated crack. The left arete of this provides a clean technical problem with a delicate top section.

Just right of Problem 1. Start with left hand on flake, and right hand on small v-shaped crimp. Pull on, slap to rail then strenuously continue straight up.

Shared start with Subtelite but traverse left to jugs then top out.

Blank wall

1m right of Salubrious

The slab just right of the obvious weakness with crucial crimp and a few thin smears.

?

Sitter on low rail. Climb short technical wall to slopey top.

Cool arete problem up the block from a sitter. Start on the crimpy fin on the right arete and small face crimps.

Obvious features on the back wall of the bloc

The centre of the obvious slab, watch the block in the landing zone.

The south face. Sit start on flake and direct up boulder (optional descent)

Sit start, through obvious flake and mantle. Punchy.

Up the obvious Flake