Routes in Northern Tablelands

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Although not technically a climbing route, the abseiling/rappelling route of Wollomombi Falls deserves it's own description. It can be used to access any of the routes in the Gorge. Follow the walking track across Wollomombi Creek to the lookout overlooking the top of the falls, on the east side. Walk about 50m back to the start of the metal railing and scramble left down a small ridge to the main pool at the top of the falls.

Depending on the water level you can make a very exposed jump across the outlet of the pool as it drains over the falls or swim. Keep rock hopping/scrambling for another 30-50m towards the ridge, staying high. During high water levels, this may entail getting wet. You head down a gully off the back of the top pool and then down at least 20-30m to find the chains near a small bush.

1. 20m The first rap is quite short to reduce rope drag and ends on a decent ledge. From the Chains Rap on the Northern side (left facing out) of the small ledge below the chains.

2. 45m to chains at a semi-hanging belay

3. 20m to a hanging belay (spectacular position)

4. 50m over a large overhang to low angled terrain.

5. 30m Either scramble down from here or make another rappel (preferred if wet, which it usually is) from one of several anchors, to the creek bed.

"At Doctors Creek near Armidale, Killip and Stascewski were again active to force the bold route Crazy Critter 20 which could be an area classic"

https://youtu.be/M_dsnrSFUpg?t=598

A hard bouldery short route.

Start: From the top abseil down to the base of the chimney between the dome and the main cliff (on the left side). It is the steep slab just left of the chimney.

Up slab past two bolts

Start: The seam/corner that goes straight up above the start of ‘Iron in the Soul’.

1. 35m Up corner system to belay on ledge with bolt and nut.

2. 15m (crux) Up corner to bolt. Step right and up slab past another halt to top.

Climbs in the central part of the cliff (other than multi-pitch routes which start from the bottom) are usually accessed by abseiling down the Stazewski-Killip ramp ( tongue in cheek Bob?) which is usually refered to as the 'descent ramp'.

Start: In the chimney on the NW side of the northern half of the King Pin.

Up in three way chimney and onto large chock block. Diagonally up around leftward spiralling traverse to top of blocks.

A classy 3 pitch arete

A bulgy slabby wall 50m right of the main wall

Start: At river level, at a cascade at the end of a small pool. The line wanders, hence the short pitches.

1. 23m. Up steps, a ramp and a corner to a large ledge.
2. 17m. Left, up flake and into strenuous bottleneck chimney.
3. 13m. Up body crack. Move right below long curving crack.
4. 20m. Start up crack then move inside, chimney up and out to ledge.
5. 10m. Up steep wide crack and wall to top.

Start: At the left hand end of the main wall. Two FH plus natural gear.

Straight up thin crack, then past FH to break with good gear, up past another FH and up to Anchors.

Start: To the left of ‘Failsafe’.

Up short fist crack to small gully.

Start: Left of ‘Firestorm’.

Up the wide crack

Start: Left of broken Glass’.

Up the curving, leaning crack

Start: The obvious hand/fist crack with a small roof just to the left of ‘Aisle of Deceit’

1. 10m Up crack through small roof to belay on left.

2. 20m As for final pitch of Bunker Hill’.

Start: Just near the top of Timeless Realm, on the upstream side. Abseil 50m from a tree back from the edge, to a ledge at the base of a V-groove. #11/2 and #2 Friends for belay. A separate abseil line is advised due to the difficulty of pulling the ropes from the start of the climb.

1. 40m Up groove, follow thin scam (crux), move left onto ledge. Up corner flake trending right at top to ledge and bolt belay.

2. 10m Step left onto large Iedge (3m) then up wall and large flake, past bolt runner to top.

Start: The small, 1m roof near the left-hand end of the cliff, 15m right of ‘Hitman’.

Up crack under roof, clip bolt then surmount roof, and continue past a break to top. Belay on trees further back

Start: Below a crack with a 'rock cowpat' at about head height. The climb takes the crack which leads to superb climbing out left.

1. 27m. (crux) Tricky move up over 'cowpat' and up the crack to a small roof. From here swing left to the V-groove. Up this to belay on ledge. On last inspection the 'rock cowpat' was sound, but pull down and not out!

2. 8m. Straight up the large corner/crack. Abseil off the back via a very large bollard.

Start: Just left of Hardicide is a harder crack start

Start: On the wall right of Koala Sprint. You’ll need real power for this one.

1. 15m. Up the slab moving right to the obvious horizontal crack. Semi-hanging belay using the crack and a small ledge.

2. 15m. (crux)Up past a small fig tree and a slab to a crack that goes through a roof, continue above to belay on a ledge.

Start: The beautiful corner crack that widens near the top.

This climbs shares the start with Pavlov's Dog. Originally the climb traversed Ieft on aid (Ml), at the start of the wide crack, and then finished up Pavlov's Dog. The direct finish was added a year later. Take a full rack. Beautiful!

28m Up blocks and crack for a few meters then move right up thin crack to the main corner. Up the corner, then continue wild lay backing up the wide crack. Belay on ledge.

As for the direct.

From the mank, before the route goes right up the crack, go diagonally left and up to belay at trees on top.

Start: just right of ‘Rope Learning’, the slightly diagonal crack.

Follow the crack.

Start: Approx 10m right of Legler Sharp etc. route. A slab below a large fig tree on a ledge. Originally had one piton for aid, now free. Right and left hand variants have been done also, for the 2nd pitch.

1. 20m. Up the slab to fig tree, then up crack to ledge.

2. 40m. Up the nose of the buttress to a steep wall, across the base and up to ledge. Continue up to the top of the blocks, traverse left across slab (peg used for aid here) Up over nose and up to ledge.

3. 10m. Up crack and wall to top.

Start:2m left of ‘Paranoid Primadona’.

Up the off width crack to top.

Start: Next line left of ‘Transactional Burnout’.

Layback and jam to top.

Start: About 4m left of ‘Amphetamine Annie’ (approx 10-15m right of ‘Fingers’).

Up thin crack, taking care with wire protection down low, then easier wide crack to top.

The wide crack 1m left of Heavy Metal. Scramble up to the base of wide crack, up crack an over block to top, step left an belay off Illusion’s chains.

Start: Approx. 20m right of Maybe on the easy section of cliff. Slab leading to grooves.

Up slabs to small groove, then up this and continue to top.

Rather awkward and strenuous.

Start: The first obvious crack in the descent gully.

Awkward fist jamming to top.

Down the gully from High Mass are two roof problems. This climb takes the easier left roof.

1. 12m. Up wide crack then step up left and around the roof.

Start: A meandering route up the face to the left of the falls. The description is vague, so good luck. Rarely attempted these days.

1. 18m Start about 18m. left of the water. Up the crack then right across small slab.and up to base of falls.

2. 30m Wander up above the first belay and slightly left of second belay(?) to a small chimney. Chockstone belay.

3. 28m Go up and slightly left to the base of the large chimney. Chockstone belay.

4. 30m Wander straight up and to the left to belay on a large roof over a cave.

5. 18m Across the grass to the left and up the gully and left to a large tree belay. Scramble to top.

Up the wider fist crack. Slightly off-width in parts and a steep finish. Eats blue cams.

A lot harder than it looks.

Start: At base of orange cracks to the left of chimney/culvert.

Easy climbing to hand jam crack. Awkward and strenuous from there to top.

Only experienced bushwalkers or rock climbers should attempt this trip. Helmets recommended. The party will need some large Hexes or Friends, and approx. 10 long slings with carabineers to sling bushes, the only protection after the start crack.

Start: The junction of the two rivers. Move up the ridge through bushes and rotten hand holds till you are confronted with a steep wall, split by a chimney. The chimney has been done but it is easier to move about 40m left till you come to a crack in a corner. This corner is the only place where you need Hexes or Cams.

Climb the groove to the crest of the ridge. Continue up and along the ridge using slings and carabineers as running belays. A step in the ridge (a bridge) is the first major obstacle. Running belays are difficult to find here so don’t fall off. Further along the ridge there are two large rock towers ('The Tooth of Death'). Negotiate these on the right-hand side, or better go up and rap off.

Eventually you will come to a large rainforest saddle, full of vines and creepers. The best route out of the saddle is via the extreme left-hand side. The first thirty metres is loose and dangerous- take care. Swing up through bushes and loose handholds, gradually moving across to the right. At this point the drop-off into the Chandler (on the right) is frightening. A few short walls, a little more scrambling and you will be back on the gorge rim. Head up onto the walking track and back to the car.

Start: in a corner below the huge roof.

1. 15m From the corner move left across the sloping ledge and up to tree belay.

2. 39m (crux) Left, up offwidth to top of block. Up crack into recess, then upopen corner to ledge. Up the shallow groove to tree belay.

3. 20m Scramble to a large ledge. Left up the corner crack, up on slab, then move right under overhanging wall, around the corner and up to tree belay.

A quite thin crack on the south side of the centerpeice

3m up to left, then up the left fist crack widening to offwidth. Avoiding the right crack

Start: In the middle of the main wall right of Slackers And Robbers.

Up thin seam, past FH then up to the easier corner. Good #0.3 in horizontal break to the right and if using double ropes there is also a good 0.2-0.3 in horizontal break on the left. Continue up to anchors on block at top.

Start: Left of ‘Recommended Retail Price’.

Up thin crack splitting protruding block then wider crack to top.

Start: Left of ‘The Plaquet’.

Reasonable hand jams to dubious hand jams. Out onto sloping ledge.

Start: Left of ‘Bottle Shop’.

Up crack, reach right into another crack. Bridging and jamming.

On the ledge above ‘Drunk and Disorderly’, 3m right of the final bit of ‘Bunker hill’.

Up thin crack in the face then wall and slab to top with a bolt runner shortly after crack ends.

Start: On the scrubby ramp 50m. right of Timeless Realm, either at the base of a vertical off-width or 5m. right at a corner. 5 B.R/s. plus other gear.

1. 10m Either up offwidth to large tree, or small corner 5m right, trending left to large tree.

2. 30m (crux) Up right-trending ramp to black wall (BR). Move left and up past bolt to grassy ledge. Up shallow corner, past 2 BRs to a series of left trending ledges, past last bolt, stepping right to base of corner.

3. 30m Up corner over small slab trending right to tree and ledge.

4. 10m Rightward diagonal corner crack to top.

Start: The arete/wall immediately R of‘Epileptic Chimney’ above boulder.

Step off boulder and up wall trending left to arête at half height. Balance up arête to top, using friend in break and 2 bolts for pro.

Start: As for T.M. The chossy crack, then move out right onto the wall. Stephens performed an excellent backward somersault, with pike, when a chicken head snapped off the slab.

1. 22m. (crux) Up choss and good crack to small roof of T.M., then move out right and up juggy wall and fine short slab. Belay on ledge as for T.M.

2. 8m. As for pitch 2 of Tontons Macoutes, The wide crack/corner. Abseil off large bollard at the back of the pinnacle.

Start: A corner just around from Hardicide. At one time it was disputed whether this was 'The Great White Father' (12), by D.Gallimore, C.Hansen, C.Cowled, Mar. 71. One seems to be a slight variant of the other.

40m. Directly up to crack, hand traverse right and mantle to belay. Up the V-groove, or the wall beside and continue to top

Start: Woooh....another M0. Someone please come and free it. Up in the gully to the right of Illusions Of Power. A thin diagonal crack. Two hard pitches.

1. 10m. Up the crack to a large ledge.

2. 20m. (crux) Up the crack and through the roof (one rest), then continue to the top via a large crack.

Start: As for NBAP, at the base of a leftward trending crack. Better than it looks. Excellent pro.

1. 20m Up blocks and crack (the left side of rhe block is considerably harder but much more enjoyable), swing left around small trees, then up to ledge and tree belay.

2. 10m On the wall directly above the tree-belay is a flake/ crack. Straight up the flake and crack, slightly right near the top, belay on ledge (small trees).

Start: On the ledge on the right-hand side of the giant block. Abseil in off the trees about 20m left of Deep Thought. Take a #4 friend and six brackets.

Up the strenuous layback, around the roof to the top of the block, then up the slabby wall and belay right back on trees.

Start: The rather unprotected groove 4m right of ‘Path of Destruction’.

Up wall and into groove to top.

Start: A great route in spite of the name. An incipient groove, slightly diagonal from left to right, several metres right of A.W. Often tried in the seventies but Austin won the prize. I love it. The start is difficult to protect. Take lots of wires.

1. 30m. A tricky start, delicate pro, then nice moves up the groove till it ends on a small ledge.

2. 15m. Easy climbing to top.

Start: 1m left of ‘Boulder’.

A bit of bridging leads to a textbook hand jam crack.

Start: Left of ‘Part of the Scenery’.

Bridge and jam to top.

Start: About 10m down left of ‘Potato Picker’. A small tree is growing out of the crack at half height.

Up crack to top.

Start as for layabout and climb the nice hand crack; gear up to 2". When the hand crack ends follow right leading crack to the arête of "Going Steady" and finish up the arête past one bolt. Abseil off chain anchor.

Start: An elegant lay-back crack which leads up a wall.

Gentle start, but gets nice and pumpy towards the top.

Start: Rightward trending corner crack immediately right of 'Evil Angels'

Diagonally right, taking care of rock and protection, to base of vertical crack. Up crack, step right and on to top ( crux).

Note: On the first ascent Brian climbed from a rest directly up the vertical crack, involving a sequence of moves about grade 22/23. The first free ascent stepped right beneath the short headwall and up to top. First free ascent of the complete route with direct finish by Carol Lee 22/08/15.

Start 2m left of Partly Truth and Partly Fiction. An inverted staircase with a tricky start and a sustained, overhanging finish.

1. 10m. An awkward start then straight up the steps.

Start: At the top of the 4th pitch of Skylite and is virtually a variant finish.

1. 18m Step right off the roof and into a shallow groove, and up to next ledge.

2. 18m Up crack to block, traverse around to the right-hand side of the block. Up the crack, onto the ledge on the nose. Then up crack in wall to top.

Left of the little rooflet, up clean splitter with block at 1/3rd height

Start: The wall 3m right of ‘Master Blaster’.

Up the wall to the ledge, follow small ledges and good holds to the main crack, up this to top.

Start: 1m from ‘Dirty Trick’ at large corner. (The first ascensionists failed to mention whether this 2m left or 2m right).

1. 30m Head into gully, folios crack, then head up left into loose rock area, up onto large rock from where rock belay secures position.

2. 23m (crux) Head up near tree, ascend main wall above tree onto sloping ledge (to the right). Use small protection on ledge until ledge becomes more vertical where main protection is needed. Jamming and use of friends up the corner is good. Scramble to rocks then on top of this for belay (near the long tunnel chimney crack). It’s possible to go on a further 6-7m for tree belay but not much protection here.

3. 12m Up onto smooth face towards obvious overhang. Traverse left to a prominent boulder under overhang, then climb out and belay from a tree.

Start: At the large tree under two roofs.

1. 25m Up over swiveling boulders and vines, pass to the right of a large roof, then up ramp/corner to more roofs. Up through roofs into crack with orchids, exit to the right.

2. 15m Up to roof then left at ledge.

3. 15m Up chimney to finish as for C.N.P.

Start: In a recess 5m left of ‘Mignionette’.

Bridge up twin cracks.

Start: About 2m left of ‘Wake In Fright’. The arête.

Up the arête past 2 fixed hangers and some wires to double bolt belay on top (about 5m back from the edge of the cliff- difficult to find).

Start: Twin cracks left of Dynamicus.

Up the twin cracks.

Historic, being the first climb on this cliff. (At the time the prevailing ethic was that a 'legitimate' climb had to start at the bottom of the cliff and finish at the top.) Contrary to the guide, the first pitch is well worth doing and is the equal crux. Exciting for a leader at that grade, but makes the climb very escapable. - Not one for sport climbers or those of a delicate disposition. Second pitch is a 'walk' and pitch 3 is a struggle.

Approach: If skipping the first pitch start pitch 2 from the Flight Deck. Otherwise - towards the lowest part of the centre of the crag look for a 'cave-like overhang'.

1. 17m. (equal crux) Exit the overhang and climb the crack to a ledge.

2. 15m. Easily follow crackline up left side of gully then step right onto ledge to below obvious crack.

3. 20m. (equal crux) Up crack to top.

Start: At a layback crack leading to a large yellow roof approx 50m. right of Timeless Realm, and approx 5m right of Peasant Uprising.

1. 25m Up crack in corner to ledge below roof. At the fig tree move left 3m to a ledge below a chimney.

2. 30m Crux, Up the chimney then move left to the base of an off-width crack. Up off-width and jam above, move around tree and continue to a manky ledge,

3. 25m Up chimney/groove then crack , onto a ledge, then up off-width to top.

Start: The chimney approx. 10m. left of 'We Wont Get Fooled Again'.

1. 30m. Chimney then jam to the top.

Start: 15m. left of G.D. The line of triangular corners. A nice climb, a little loose in parts.

1. 25m. Up the line of triangular corners directly to belay ledge.

2. 15m. Move right and up to top.

Start: A beautiful thin crack, just right of H. Protection on the crux moves is sparse but you can step right and avoid it if you get the wobbles. Excellent.

20m. A strenuous reachy start then straight up the thin crack till it joins the diagonal Stop-Go which comes in on your right near the top.

Start: 2-3metres left of Pavlov's Dog. Broken blocks lead to a thin crack corner. Technical and sustained,

1. 21m (Crux) Scramble onto blocks, then hard moves to start the crack, followed by a series of layaways and an exhilarating finish onto the tree-ledge of Pavlov's Dog.

2. 10m As for the second pitch of Pavlov's Dog.

Start: In the descent gully aprox. 10m right of Geronimo and directly below the tree and ledge where the original route starts. Abseil or walk in.

Up the short poorly protected wall, going slightly leftwards then back right to the ledge and tree. Up as for original route.

Start: The unmistakable clean cut finger crack right of ‘Diminishing Returns’.

Up the crack.

Start: 2m right of T.T.L.G., a dirty groove that takes you to a clean, classic crack. Excellent climbing with very good protection.

40m. Up dirty groove for 3m then step right to block. Swing up onto block, then continue up the crack through an overlap, then easier climbing to tree. Belay. Rap off.

Start: 3m left of 'Seizure’.

Up initial crack and then an awkward move to turn the overlap on its left and get established on a small slab. Finish up chimney/corner.

Start: Left of ‘Nasal Drip’.

Bridge and jam to top.

Originally done with a single point of aid (19M0) at the start of the crack, this was eliminated on the second ascent by A. Legler, M. Colyvan, and E. Sharpe Nov 1980 ]

In Feb 94 Dick Baker aided the direct start.

Start: As for ‘potato Picker’.

Up to ledge as for ‘Potato Picker’ then traverse 2m left around the arête to a crack. Follow crack to top.

2m left of the normal start. This avoids the fine crack. Up the wide crack.

Start: From the original picnic area follow the fence line east for approx 100m. "STH" initials painted below the undercling flake, and follow very nice right leading finger crack to the vertical hand crack to top. Trad anchor required. Originally aided now totally free.

Destined to be a classic.

Start: The obvious wall/crack route, on the terrace, that exits through the roof.

Straight up the wall, crack to roof and through the exciting roof crack to the top.

Start on the crumbly rock, and up onto overhanging flake to top. Can be lead if you have a bunch of big-bros, otherwise top-rope. Gear anchor required.

The corner crack left of The Rough Diamond.

1. 20m. A hard start then up to the roof. Out and around left, then up hand crack to top, wall exit on right. Tree belay.

Start: The chimney/cleft just to the left side of the water course. Good fun.

1. 25m Up the slabs

2. 25m More slabs to base of the chimney.

3. Step inside and up the chimney.

4. Chimney

5. Chimney

6. Chimney

Up fist crack onto ledge, then up wider crack with great knees

The first route in the descent gully. Mike's brothers York and Eric were there too! Start: The wall 3m left of 'Humble Pie'.

Up the wall, past 3 BR's. Third bolt is a difficult clip - makes it that little more exciting. Belay on ledge (medium friends and wires) and walk off right, or... continue up hand-crack to top (grd. 18)

Start: A leaning corner crack.

1. 30m (crux) Up the shallow crack, over block, then up the off width to a ledge.

2. 26m Straight up the crack to a small roof. Out and around this to belay ledge.