70m left and down from Lanky Dick and the Love Hole. Near the lowest point on the buttress. 1st pitch (15m): Wide crack to tree. 2nd pitch (30m): Follow line, mainly on face holds. 3rd pitch (15m): Stay in line to large ledge. Walk 40m left to below orange wall and roof. 4th pitch (38m): Up loose corners and grooves. 5th pitch (10m): Crux. Traverse right below orange wall and up steep chimney. 6th pitch (15m): Finish off the chimney and wander up choss to top. The photo topo is an estimated. Please update if you know where the route goes.
1996 | First free ascent: T. Waters & S. Goode |
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19 | Assigned grade |
19 | Lee Cujes |
There are bountiful possibilities for new routes. Up to this point no bolts have been placed in this area as sufficient natural protection has been available. The area is within Nymboi-Binderay National Park so it would be best to discretely check with the latest policies for bolting within National Parks.
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