Routes in Bondi

Start somewhere in the middle of the wall left of the chimney. Up the crumbling horror show. Maybe 24 R xxx

Start just right of chimney at the southern end of main wall.

Start: Up choss chimney for a few moves, then right onto ledge. Clip ringbolt and overcome horrible undercut section on crimps to break. Straight up sandy wall (scary) to left facing juggy flake. Above this head right and finish up Daylight Shaving.

Horrible start but gets nicer the higher you go.

Start: Start as for Smut. From the horrible undercut move at the first bolt traverse right across horizontal break and up wall and subtle groove on great rock. For a more enjoyable climb just pull on the first bolt (grade 20).

Sustained and pumpy climbing which gets better the higher you go. Rebolted, chipped and straightened out for the 21st century.

Start: Starts in the middle of the main wall.

The name says everything about the history of this climb! Start on the last conceivable piece of rock on the right side before it undercuts and turns to choss. Was originally led in two pitches?! Rebolted 2008.

Start: Up and left past RB then jugs to big ledge. Over rooflet, a bit right then back left to gain left facing small corner. At the top of this blast straight up the face above to lower-off. Original route headed left from the small corner and up past some 'interesting' fixed pegs that are still visible.

A left hand variant finish for Plumber's Mate. Needs a rebolt for the upper half. From flake after traverse head left and follow line of rusty BRs to rap point.

One of the best single sport routes on the sea cliffs? Sustained and interesting face climbing on excellent rock. Starts on right side of main wall at the line of shiny new u-bolts. Thin slippery start to jug, up small arete to long reach (sling) then hand traverse wildly left to gain flake and final sustained face finish. Because this route doesn't get much traffic it is highly recommended you rap this route first and brush the sand/salt that accumulates on the holds.

Needs a rebolt. Start 4m right of PM, at shallow corner. Head straight up corner (3 BRs), then step down 2m and traverse left for 3m. Head up and right past 2 more BRs then left to belay (possible to rap off from here). Pitch 2 is possible for another 15m (scary).

Needs a rebolt. A dirty black wall. Start about 5m right of Plumbers Mate. Delicately up slab (2 rusty BRs). Take care with rock and pro.

Starting 5 meters left of Arapiles inside the chimney, follow the line of BR's up. Pro in decent condition. Can link up with 2nd pitch of Arapiles.

On the left of the chimney that forms the left side of the block left of the wall. You'll see 2 RB's (with matching carrots) which are the start of the climb. When you reach the "cute" crack above it's time for trad. There are double u bolts approx 25 meters into the climb which are in very good condition.

handcrack on east wall of chasm 30m north

Sea Level Traverse - North Bondi (1.5km, Grade 12?)

This southern section of coastline wraps it’s way around some glorious and beautiful ledge systems. It’s the easiest and least commiting of all the sections, with only one serious pitch of climbing. A great day out and a good adventure to bring a novice along.

From the North: Start at The Murk (golf course) descent. Its possible to explore up to 500m north of this section without ropes. Heading south from the Murk, you will quickly arrive at the first crux. A short rope and some cams will see you around it no problem, depositing you into the Bondi Main Wall Sport crag. For an alternative entry point, or to escape, the gully on its south will help you out. Another 500m of straightforward rock hopping to the south gets you to the second and last crux of this section. Some stainless bolts would make rapping this much easier but for now either trust the old carrot or ask your partner to second the pitch (hint: it goes downwards). Once you work your way to the bottom it is an easy jaunt back to the beach. Try to do this at low tide, the rockpools here are phenomenal, the best of the entire traverse.

From the South: From Bondi, begin your day on australia's most famous beach before diving immediately into australia's most beautiful rubbish dump. It’s pretty rough picking your way past the bogan hangouts but keep going, you just need to walk further than someone with a case of beer would. You can skip a lot of easy rock platforms by scrambling down at ben buckler. About 200m past the enormous boulders you’ll come to an impasse. At super low tide its possible to get around without ropes, but to stay dry, a 10m little pitch of grade 12 trad climbing will get you though. Beyond this pitch, another 300m of easy scrambling gets you to the main wall / sport crag. Either scramble out here via the gully on its south, or continue past the next, straightforward crux to scramble out via the golf course descent.

Bring a single rack of cams with extra in the #1-3 range, a 30m rope and a can do attitude.

Sit start up the overhang on sloper pockets

Start from sloper rail up into undercling, then easier ground to top out high up.

Highball start from sloper rail up into undercling, then but split off to right and up the black streak.

Traverse in to huge jug on lip.

From the sit. May have been done before. High finish.

Slab straight up above OBU$

Start on the sloper marked Owen Gibson, move right and up.

Traverse.