Routes in Second Breakaway

Start: At the extreme left-hand end of the 2nd breakaway, i.e. left of Touched.

Up arête below 2 roofs. Up crack to roof, through roof to ledge then to top.

Some people will do anything to see their name in print!

Start: The scrubby gully at the left hand end of the cliff, 3m left of ‘Hitman’.

Up twin cracks and mank.

Start: The small, 1m roof near the left-hand end of the cliff, 15m right of ‘Hitman’.

Up crack under roof, clip bolt then surmount roof, and continue past a break to top. Belay on trees further back

Start: 2m left of ‘Hitman’.

Up a little slab then up the arete using the left hand edge. Two bolts and some wires provide the protection.

Start: Below the obvious crack up the first good rock you come to.

Up wall to crack and on to top.

Start: 3m right of ‘Hitman’.

Up fist jam crack to small roof and over to top.

Start: The flake crack 4m right of ‘True Confessions’.

Up the crack.

Start: 9m right of ‘True Confessions’.

Up crack to stance and on to top.

Start: 1m right of ‘Mischief’.

Up twin cracks to top.

Start: The arete between ‘Snakes and Ladders’ and ‘Whale Oil Beef Hooked’.

Straight up the arete, avoiding the climbs on either side. 4 bolts and a selection of Friends provide the protection. #4 Friend needed near top.

Start: 2m right of ‘Snakes and Ladders’.

Up thin corner crack to top.

Start: About 3m left of ‘Interlude’.

Up crack.

A good climb to do while you’re deciding what you really want to do.

Start: On the terrace left of ‘Epileptic Chimney’.

A few wall moves to start, then a couple of jams, and finally a mantle shelf over a tiny roof.

A useful descent route for this part of the cliff.

Start: The chimney to the left of and behind ‘Ivory Stairs’.

Up chimney.

Start: The arete/wall immediately R of‘Epileptic Chimney’ above boulder.

Step off boulder and up wall trending left to arête at half height. Balance up arête to top, using friend in break and 2 bolts for pro.

Start: 12m right of ‘Whale Oil Beef Hooked’.

Loose in parts.

Up corner to roof, step left and up to top.

Start: The sharp arête between ‘Ivory Stairs’ and ‘Submission’.

Layaway up the sharp edge. 3 bolts, a number 3 friend, and wires provide the protection. There are two bolts at the top of this climb if an anchor is required, which also services climbs 16 - 20 (take bolt plates).

Start: 1m right of ‘Ilean’.

Up crack to top.

Start: 3m right of ‘Submission’.

Scramble up broken rock and into chimney and on to top.

Start: 1m right of ‘Staircase Chimney’.

Up wall to crack then to top.

Start: 1m right of ‘Mantle As Anything’.

Bridge up over blocks then take the off-width crack on the left to top

Start: As for ‘Plastic Passion.

A bit silly.

Up as for ‘Plastic Passion’ and then up thin crack on right and straight up wall to top.

Start: The arête right of ‘Contrivia’ and left of ‘Fear And Loathing’. “Like shimmying up a Fridge”. Up the arête past wires in the crack and two fixed hangers. Belay off double bolts at top.

Start: 4m right of ‘Staircase Chimney’.

Up finger crack with block at half height. There are two bolts at the top of this climb if a top rope anchor is needed (take bolt plates) but quite adequate anchors can be had where the crack splits the top of the pinnacle.

Start: The arête/wall between ‘Fear and Loathing’ and ‘Nightmare Crack’.

Up the arête/wall avoiding the cracks on either side and passing 3 BR’s and a #1 1/2 Friend placement. Some wires also useful.

Start: 2m right of ‘Fear and Loathing’. What a nightmare!

Fingery crack followed by jam crack and offwidth to top.

Start: Crack R of ‘Nightmare Crack’.

Preferably use double ropes!.

Up crack till it stops at half height, traverse L with small pro and finish up ‘Nightmare Crack’.

Start: In the ‘chimney behind ‘Nightmare Crack’ - a hole in the ground. The climb is the crack that is the other side of ‘Nightmare Crack’.

Chimney and jam using the crack for protection.

Start: 5m right of ‘Nightmare Crack’. Large log below start.

Fingery crack that closes near the top.

Start: About 4m left of ‘Amphetamine Annie’ (approx 10-15m right of ‘Fingers’).

Up thin crack, taking care with wire protection down low, then easier wide crack to top.

Start: About 10m down left of ‘Potato Picker’. A small tree is growing out of the crack at half height.

Up crack to top.

Originally done with a single point of aid (19M0) at the start of the crack, this was eliminated on the second ascent by A. Legler, M. Colyvan, and E. Sharpe Nov 1980 ]

In Feb 94 Dick Baker aided the direct start.

Start: As for ‘potato Picker’.

Up to ledge as for ‘Potato Picker’ then traverse 2m left around the arête to a crack. Follow crack to top.

Start: Due to difficult access from the upstream end of the cliff it is best to approach down one of the chimneys as for Last Straw or by the gully which can be seen in the topo. If you are approaching from one of the climbs upstream then:- Approx 25m right of ‘Fingers’ is a short easy wall leading to a ledge where a crack leads up a corner at the left-hand end of the ledge. The stance at the bottom of the cliff is quite constricted now due to new growth so it is probably advisable to belay on the ledge.

Follow the crack at the left-hand end of the ledge to the top.

Start: 1m right of ‘Potato Picker’.

Twin cracks, up right hand fist/off width crack to top.

Start: 4m right of ‘Chocks Away’.

Up off width which leads to smooth body chimney.

Start: 2m right of ‘Occam’s Razor’.

Up crack to top.

Start: 10m right of ‘Occam’s Razor’ on obvious terrace. Second crack from left on terrace.

Up thin crack to top.

Start: 2m right of ‘Redemption’ on terraces

Up wide crack to top.

Start: 25m right of ‘Occam’s Razor’ a large pillar leans back against the main wall.

Start up either of the two cracks for 3m to chimney in behind the pillar.

Start: First line left of break in cliff, 3m right of ‘Chunder Chimney’. Due to undergrowth at the base of the middle section of the cliff, it is advisable to access this climb by descending one of the easy chimneys above.

The slightly overhanging jam crack. (marked)

Start: 4m right of ‘Last Straw’, a short wall in an alcove.

Up wall past 3BR’s to double bolt belay on ledge.

Start: First line right of the break in the cliff.

Up enjoyable offwidth by bridging into adjacent crack.

Start: 2m right of ‘Tristana’.

Fingery start followed by hand jam crack and off width finish.

Start: 3m right of ‘Viridiana’.

Bridge up twin cracks to top.

Start: Right of ‘Trix’ in yellow rotten section of cliff.

Fist to off width crack.

Start: Right of ‘Rattlesnake’, the last climb on the Second Breakaway.

Bolt belay at start. Up past 2BR’s and some natural pro to a double bolt anchor on the ledge at top.