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description

Start up Saxicoline then sneak under and around the lip out onto the main face. Traverse out left along seam, then head straight up the right-hand set of bolts through fantastic climbing with some long moves on the head wall. This is a crag classic and must do at the grade.

© (nmonteith)

Route history

Route setter: Nate Foster & Sebastian l
Feb 2016First free ascent: Sebastian Loewensteijn

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: -27.81284, 152.80662

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Grade citation

29 Assigned grade
private
Jack Brown
29+ Radest
31 [30 - 31] ++ grAId

ethic

Flinders peak is a special area, though before that it was a special escape for locals, and before that it has long been a unique area for flora and fauna. This is why it is important for us to be responsible when we’re out there.

Overall, we need to keep a low profile at this beautiful mountain and be responsible and aware climbing stewards. Some important points are listed below – not as rules, but guidelines for responsible rock climbing.

Remember, our first priority is environmental care, second is the locals' relationship with the area, and only after that comes our climbing.

RESPONSIBLE CLIMBING GUIDELINES

NOISE – Respectful Silence. This is a beautiful peaceful spot so let’s keep it this way. Save the peace!

DOGS – Keep them at home, it is a conservation park. Flinders is close to a couple properties and is an area popular with the public, not to mention is somewhat of a haven for flora and fauna amongst the surrounding lands.

FLORA & VEGETATION – Be one with nature, and don’t remove any vegetation. None. Vegetation and the environment are more important than climbing. Flora and Vegetation takes priority over our climbing!

LEAVE NO TRACE – Brush off ticks & chalk, pack out all rubbish, and pick up any litter you encounter. Like a ninja that comes and goes in the dead of the night, act as if you don’t want anyone to know you’ve been there. Leave no rubbish – this means climbing tape, rubbish, and food scraps (this area isn’t your compost bin. Bring a rubbish bag). Bring brushes to remove as much chalk as possible at the end of your session – tick marks, hold chalk and all! It will not only make the routes nicer to climb for the next person but will result in a cleaner wall to look at for everyone.

STAYING ON TRACK - Don't stray too far. The Conservation Park is surrounded by eco-sensitive land, so don't wander off the beaten path too far and step on rare vegetation. There is proven to be a number of endangered species of plants around Flinders.

KEEP EACHOTHER ACCOUNTABLE – Encourage one another to be responsible, and don't let others cause your morals to slip. It's easy to be influenced into doing the wrong thing. Stay strong and keep one another accountable, and don't be afraid to inform others at the crag - respectfully - on how they can be more responsible. Nothing's worth a fight of course, but there's nothing wrong with sharing a word or two to give each other something to ponder.

The Responsible Climber - The only way to climb If we truly care for access, we must truly care for the environment and other people. It’s in our hands. Responsible climbing is the only way to ensure that we can enjoy great climbing for years to come.

© inherited from The Secret Cave

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Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 62 from 7 ratings.

Difficulty - 29

Soft Touch
Easy
Average
Hard
Sandbag

Based on 2 ratings.

Suggested Grade

29

Based on 2 ratings.

Tick Types

Red point 6
Pink point 6
Attempt 167

Comment keywords

powerful solid pumped hard dyno crux cool nice enjoyable fun perfect stoked good super amazing great awesome sweet crack rest mantle undercling traverse pinch epic easy fingers feet face interesting short lip slippery

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Jimmy Blackhall & David Jefferson

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9377779499658

Hidden within the ordinary people of Queensland there exists a tight-knit community of scabby knuckles, grazed knees, massive forearms and iron-clad wills. This guidebooks seeks to shed light on this community and blocks of choice with all the information, skills and knowledge to open the door for you to explore all the bouldering that Queensland has to offer.

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2018

ISBN: 9780958079068

A few years ago there was basically Frog Buttress and Coolum. Since then there has been more development than Barangaroo and South East Queensland should be on any climbers radar no matter what your style. Except ice climbing, definitely no ice climbing. But over 1250 routes with hard sport, multipitches and quality trad to make a great trip.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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