Routes in The Moai

Past two U bolts to flake with good natural gear. Continue up to ledge to join the top of 'Burning Spear p1'

1. 10m. Scramble up to the ledge on the NE side of the Moai.

2. 20m. Climb the corner onto the pedestal then up to the bolt. From the bolt move right 1m then up via a flake. Trend rightward to another bolt then straight up. Use the anchors of 'Ancient Astronaught' to belay/rappel (a single 50m rope doubled just makes it down). Take a small selection of small to mid-sized SLCDs.

Note: the first bolt is currently loose, the rap chains seem pretty lightweight.

R.Eberhard, R.Parkyn, Aug/94.

The best way to do the link up is in one long pitch. Past two U bolts to a flake with good natural gear, then to the ledge (as for the end of 'Burning Spear P1') then up past bolts to DBB loweroffs.

You can just lower on a 50m rope but be careful not to drop it in the sea in high winds.

A two pitch escape route to get you back up the rap route. Grade 12, 16

1. 25m 24. Crank through the overhang at the base of the NE arete. Continue up the arete and the wall to its left.

2. 10m 20. Blast straight up from the belay ledge then trend right via the last U to finish on the right side of the arete. No natural gear required on either pitch.