Showing all 15 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
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Spider terrace approach
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23 | ★★ Down for the Count
Start: Rap into the ledge halfway up ‘The Gates of Moria’ from the chains on top of ‘The Gremlin’ buttress. The climb starts from this ledge and goes up the right wall of the gully. Clip the bolt then an awkward move to start to pull across onto the wall. Move right and up to a second bolt then up to the small roof and around this past a third bolt, then follow the rightward trending seam up past another bolt to the arête. Easily to top. Chain belay plus a bolt down lower where the climb meets the arête. FA: Mark Colyvan & Tim (Tadpole) Ball, 1998 | 25m, 4 | |||
Super Route
3m left of Working Class Heroes up vertical crack and through shrubbery. Then continue up tiny tips crack. 1982 is complete guess for FA Set: Mark Colyvan, John Lattanzio & Richard Curtis, 1982 | |||||
18 | ★★★ Working Class Heroes
A Classic looking crack. Start: The obvious diagonal crack line on the left hand side of the terrace.
FFA: Al Stephens, P. Clark & Brian Birchall, 1981 | 36m, 2 | |||
23 | ★★ Fellatio by Tonto
Start: from the sentry box atop of pitch one of ‘Working Class Heroes’. From the sentry box belay step left onto the wall and crack. A hard crank right, then back left overcomes the blank section. FA: Russell (Chunder) Chudliegh & Tim (Tadpole) Ball, 1985 | 12m | |||
14 | Prehistoric Sounds
A real grunt! Start: The chimney to the right of ’Working Class Heroes’. Scramble up gully to above tree and good ledge. Follow crack up left wall of chimney FA: Mark Colyvan & Paul Bayne, 1981 | 23m | |||
18 | Conditional Discharge
Start: As for ‘Prehistoric Sounds’ to ledge above tree. Follow the off-width crack on the right up through a bulge and then more easily on to top. FA: Mark Colyvan & Al Stephens, 1981 | 20m | |||
21 | ★★★ Post Modern
A rather attractive wall. Double ropes useful. Start: About 3m left of ‘Rise of the Bourgeoisie’. Up slab to ledge then straight up wail above past bolt, then head diagonally right over easier ground, then up to a second bolt up and slightly left past two more bolts then run it out a little straight up the slab above. Easily up exit crack. FA: Mark Colyvan & Brian Birchall, 1983 | 20m, 4 | |||
19 | ★★ Rise of the Bourgeoisie
Start: On the right hand end of the terrace
FA: Rob Clark, Al Stephens & Brian Birchall, 1981 | 25m, 2 | |||
16 | Corridors of Power
Start: As for ‘Rise of the Bourgeoisie’.
FFA: John Lattanzio & Brian Birchall, 1982 | 30m, 3 | |||
21 | ★★ Labour Force
Start: As for 'Rise of the Bourgeoisie'
FFA: John Lattanzio & Brian Birchall, 1982 | 25m, 3 | |||
24 | Tuggin Mutton
A hard bouldery short route. Start: From the top abseil down to the base of the chimney between the dome and the main cliff (on the left side). It is the steep slab just left of the chimney. Up slab past two bolts FA: Paul Colyvan & Mark Colyvan, 1987 | 12m, 2 | |||
26 | ★★ Fuck Knows
A superb line up the left arête of the dome, giving sustained hard climbing. Start: At the base of the dome on the left side. Either Abseil in or do 'Labour Force'. Up the left aide of the arête past a bolt runner then swing around right and up past three more bolts to top with another bolt at top. Tie off trees on mainland for anchor. FA: Mikl Law, Paul Colyvan & Mark Colyvan, 1987 | 20m, 5 | |||
21 | ★★★ Severence Pay
The arête between 'Corridors of Power' and ‘Bunker Hill’. Start: On the right hand end of the ledge atop pitch 1 of ‘Labour Force’. Step right off big block onto wall past bolt runner; up and across right to arête which is followed past 2 more bolts to top. FA: Paul Bayne & Paul Colyvan, 1983 | 20m, 3 | |||
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Showing all 15 routes.