Nodes in Gardens of Stone National Park

GOS National Park Area of Newnes Plateau. Mainly located on the Eastern and Western escarpment of Carne Creek

Steep Climbing in a cave

The 1st route you come to. On the outside of the cave. Scramble up EZ ground, to a nice flake - punchy to anchors

Just outside the cave. The top is wet in rain.

Crag Classic - the obvious line just inside the cave.

Start on platform in the back of cave. 5*RB 2*RB Anchor (7 * Draws)

Cruxy to gain the roof. Then heel hooking heaven.

Smiley black corner

The bolted crack. Hard to gain access to roof crack, then fight the pump to the anchors.

The line of ring bolts in between St. Andrews Cross and Melancholic that heads up and diagonally right through many ticked and bad looking holds. Might be a project?

The furthest route on the right hand side of the cave. Starts with two unpleasant fixed hangers just on the outside of the cave.

Good little line - but a death wish to access. Starts 50m further along the ironstone dinnerplate ledge. Go around the corner from the cave, and up the unprotected atrocious ironstone dinner plates to get to it.

Small cave featuring roof crack located in side gully West of Rain Cave

Super steep roof crack on bomber hands and fists with plenty of gear. Gear recommended double #4#3#2#1, gear before first lip has to be extended or unclipped otherwise rope drag will be problematic. Lower off.

Managed by NPWS under the Gardens of Stone NP Plan of Management - NO DOGS ALLOWED IN THE NATIONAL PARK https://www.environment.nsw.gov.au/-/media/OEH/Corporate-Site/Documents/Parks-reserves-and-protected-areas/Parks-plans-of-management/gardens-of-stone-national-park-plan-of-management-090514.pdf

Managed by NPWS under the Gardens of Stone NP Plan of Management - NO DOGS ALLOWED IN THE NATIONAL PARK https://www.environment.nsw.gov.au/-/media/OEH/Corporate-Site/Documents/Parks-reserves-and-protected-areas/Parks-plans-of-management/gardens-of-stone-national-park-plan-of-management-090514.pdf

Corner and arete with two ferns, on the North side of Main Gully. You pass this heading down to WTAF.

Think your way onto ledge, then wander between arete for holds and corner for gear. Gets half a star for the cool pocket above fern numero uno.

Start right of arete, up arete then left to crack on left wall into a black hanging corner to top. 35m Rap off large tree.

Area with small caves up a terrace before the Main Cliff

Offwidth #6 roof crack with low footwork and features inside the crack. Easy start to wedged boulder where a start anchor can be built. Chimney out to roof crack, turn lip then finger/hand traverse to next lip. Lower off. The last few meters to topout is easy climbing on rotten rock and has not been climbed. Located in a small cave just before accessing Supercrack.

Roof hand crack in a cave. Although the whole line includes climbing P1 & P2 below the cave and includes topping out the easy groove above, the popular option is to climb and exit the P3 roof (crux), stand up then aid back down to clean the gear.

1. 25m (12) Right facing corner

2. 20m (17) Roof crack then jugs

3. 20m (24) Roof crack then steep groove

Refer to Rain Cave approach

Managed by NPWS under the Gardens of Stone NP Plan of Management - NO DOGS ALLOWED IN THE NATIONAL PARK https://www.environment.nsw.gov.au/-/media/OEH/Corporate-Site/Documents/Parks-reserves-and-protected-areas/Parks-plans-of-management/gardens-of-stone-national-park-plan-of-management-090514.pdf

Left side of major vertical orange wall. Up seam crack and wall above Supplement the six carrot bolts with #9 Rock and small cams. Lower-off anchor on right side of small cave.

Ringbolts up centre of huge orange wall. Apparently it is one giant 60+m pitch

Airy face and corner climbing up right side of massive orange wall. All bolts need hangers (bring 15). Starts on pedestal on left edge of Bell's Line cave.

1. 25m (22) Left and up fall (8 bolts) to bolt belay.

2. 25m (22) Up superbly positioned corner to top then right onto easy slab. (13 bolts + 2 hangers for the belay)

3. 4m Easily to top of pagoda

An outstanding, naturally protected line up the obvious weakness through right side of the cave. The first half was originally climbed by Greg Child (and co) at grade 23 to the small stance just before the angle begins to steepen dramatically. From this point things get pumpy and you will need to draw on your bouldering nous. After the business is over be prepared for a longer-than-expected head wall above.

Managed by NPWS under the Gardens of Stone NP Plan of Management - NO DOGS ALLOWED IN THE NATIONAL PARK https://www.environment.nsw.gov.au/-/media/OEH/Corporate-Site/Documents/Parks-reserves-and-protected-areas/Parks-plans-of-management/gardens-of-stone-national-park-plan-of-management-090514.pdf

Managed by NPWS under the Gardens of Stone NP Plan of Management - NO DOGS ALLOWED IN THE NATIONAL PARK https://www.environment.nsw.gov.au/-/media/OEH/Corporate-Site/Documents/Parks-reserves-and-protected-areas/Parks-plans-of-management/gardens-of-stone-national-park-plan-of-management-090514.pdf

10m right of Andy and Caroline. Easily up line of juggy scoops then runout face above to lower-offs. First ascent & name unknown.

The right facing corner 10m to the left of Sacred Ground.

1. 35m (17). Corner and chimney to ledge with blocks. Poorly protected but good rock.

2. 30m. An easy but spectacular canyon delving into the bowels of the hill before scrambling easily up to ground level to finish.

The left leaning thin crack 2m left of Sacred Ground. Originally climbed as three pitches.

1. 15m (10). Crack to steep section.

2. 20m (22). Head left along the flake crack past ferns to SHB (cams, wires) on left at base of vertical finger crack.

3. 35m (21). Follow the finger crack until it peters out and then head straight up headwall (BR) to the top. 1BB (quality unknown...). Then up and left 4m to another 1BB.

Wide crack mostly with steep mid-section to head wall wide crack. Usually done in 2 pitches at least but could be done as one. Belay in middle is possible off a variety of gear from wires to mediums cams.

Large rack advisable. Also tape if you haven't been to Buffalo recently. Double ropes best if wanting to rap off.

Bolted line right of Sacred Ground done as one epic long pitch. Slab up the bowl to start (scary to first bolt) then launch up juggy wall, trend left across overhung "cave" and up face above.

Two pitch sport route up the wall 10m right of Sacred Ground. Starts low down on the grey slab. The pitches could be linked with long runners.

1. 32m (18) Fun jugging up slab and orange wall to comfy ledge and anchors.

2. 32m (24) Steep and exciting climbing up the wall above. Finishes up major flake crack feature with huge runout to lower-off anchors. A #0.5 Camalot would make this runout sane.

Refer to Rain Cave approach

Managed by NPWS under the Gardens of Stone NP Plan of Management - NO DOGS ALLOWED IN THE NATIONAL PARK https://www.environment.nsw.gov.au/-/media/OEH/Corporate-Site/Documents/Parks-reserves-and-protected-areas/Parks-plans-of-management/gardens-of-stone-national-park-plan-of-management-090514.pdf

Managed by NPWS under the Gardens of Stone NP Plan of Management - NO DOGS ALLOWED IN THE NATIONAL PARK https://www.environment.nsw.gov.au/-/media/OEH/Corporate-Site/Documents/Parks-reserves-and-protected-areas/Parks-plans-of-management/gardens-of-stone-national-park-plan-of-management-090514.pdf

Managed by NPWS under the Gardens of Stone NP Plan of Management - NO DOGS ALLOWED IN THE NATIONAL PARK https://www.environment.nsw.gov.au/-/media/OEH/Corporate-Site/Documents/Parks-reserves-and-protected-areas/Parks-plans-of-management/gardens-of-stone-national-park-plan-of-management-090514.pdf

Managed by NPWS under the Gardens of Stone NP Plan of Management - NO DOGS ALLOWED IN THE NATIONAL PARK https://www.environment.nsw.gov.au/-/media/OEH/Corporate-Site/Documents/Parks-reserves-and-protected-areas/Parks-plans-of-management/gardens-of-stone-national-park-plan-of-management-090514.pdf

Refer to Rain Cave approach

Managed by NPWS under the Gardens of Stone NP Plan of Management - NO DOGS ALLOWED IN THE NATIONAL PARK https://www.environment.nsw.gov.au/-/media/OEH/Corporate-Site/Documents/Parks-reserves-and-protected-areas/Parks-plans-of-management/gardens-of-stone-national-park-plan-of-management-090514.pdf

Managed by NPWS under the Gardens of Stone NP Plan of Management - NO DOGS ALLOWED IN THE NATIONAL PARK https://www.environment.nsw.gov.au/-/media/OEH/Corporate-Site/Documents/Parks-reserves-and-protected-areas/Parks-plans-of-management/gardens-of-stone-national-park-plan-of-management-090514.pdf

Managed by NPWS under the Gardens of Stone NP Plan of Management - NO DOGS ALLOWED IN THE NATIONAL PARK https://www.environment.nsw.gov.au/-/media/OEH/Corporate-Site/Documents/Parks-reserves-and-protected-areas/Parks-plans-of-management/gardens-of-stone-national-park-plan-of-management-090514.pdf

The two gob-smacking crack lines in the cave proper leave you in a state of disbelief. There are other old school looking cracks in the direct vicinity of the cave.

This is the short version of the climb Beyond Belief. It goes slightly overhanging on good hand jams to heavily overhanging on wider hands/fists. It basically stops close to the turning point where the proper ceiling is starting. You'll know if you're just in "Disbelief" or willing to go Beyond Belief at this point. Grade can feel on the soft side if you have large hands.

Mind blowing line along the lip of a huge cave going from the bottom right to the top left. 15m of increasingly steep hand to wide hand/fist crack. Then 25m ceiling with a variety of fist/offwidth/jugs/chimney, ends where the ceiling crack meets the other side of the cave. No topout, backclean. If you stop at 15m just before the crack opens up and steepens to 80deg overhanging you can call it Disbelief (24)

Very well protected all the way. Steep section C4 1x#0.75, 1x#1, 2x#2, 3x#3 Ceiling section 8x#4, 2x#5, 1x#6

The whole crack is protected from rain and sun but will start seeping after several days of proper downpour.

Amazing finger crack dividing the Disbelief Cave in two. Tricky easier start to shallow hueco below clean splitter (handy Z4#0.1 and bomber C4#4). From there, the angle is about 45-60deg and most of your body weight will be held up by 3 consecutive solid finger locks in some of the most outrageous moves with footwork at head height. Progress on good but shallow huecos to juggy section. Return to ceiling crack with several finger locks up to a fix wire at the end of the finger crack. Always dry and drizzle free. https://youtu.be/Wsu631XwrWU?si=GrCxwJvDCp9SW7Dq

The obvious hand crack to the right of the amazing beyond belief cave.Up flared hands much harder then it looks into corner system and right under roof finishing up A Right chimney.

The central crack line up to flake joining A left crack, to finish up A right chimney..Extremely good.

About 10m right of cave in shallow alcove. Nice hands and fists corner crack leads to slightly thrutchy offwidth section and into small cave and rest. Back out of cave and up into chimney to top.

A bunch of large cams as needed, plus some medium stuff for in or above Chimney section. Best to belay from very base of route. Grades from 18 to 20 were suggested so we averaged it out to 19... enjoyable old school climbing ...

The gob-smacking brutish looking line opposite the main cave. The type of line that looms over you daring you to step up and give it a try... Does it even go?, how hard?, how wide?, how wild? and that roof... wow ...

A steepish offwidth start (after bouldering up initial section to reach the first gear) arcs up, narrowing into merely a wide crack then a brief loose section before reaching the belay in alcove at roof. Some loose stuff about here so be careful. Gr 20? ~35m?

Novel moves horizontally out a wide bell/bombay slot then drop down weirdly into good fist crack to turn lip and easily to top. Belay off large chockstone or bollards. Rap-off bollard on double ropes. Gr 21? ~20m?

Gear: 1 or 2 BigBro #4's, a few #6 Cams, a couple of 5's, a few 4's, and singles down to Purple, vary number of large gear depending on how solid you feel... Belay takes good #2-4 cams, best to hang out near edge.

Scattered climbs along the Eastern and Western escarpments of Carne Creek not already included in the GOS NP

Managed by NPWS under the Gardens of Stone NP Plan of Management - NO DOGS ALLOWED IN THE NATIONAL PARK https://www.environment.nsw.gov.au/-/media/OEH/Corporate-Site/Documents/Parks-reserves-and-protected-areas/Parks-plans-of-management/gardens-of-stone-national-park-plan-of-management-090514.pdf

First pitch (35m approx) is great crack with good gear which might feel spaced at times (crux). Most climbing involves various techniques as opposed to pure splitters. Lots of face climbing and the jamming isn't totally straight forward. Very cruxy, most climbing is around grade 20ish apart from two short sections. Second pitch (20m) can definitely go straight up (slightly left) at grade 20ish but be warned that rock quality is nowhere as good as first pitch and the gear is mostly rattly tricam type of thing with only few ok cams. It seems like there might an escape pitch(es?)to the left involving fairly unprotected traverse on easy ground. Grades, FA, FA 2nd pitch, name are unknown and will be updated.

Superb crack of various sizes with some steep sections. Rock and pro is bomber up to the last 10m. Last 10m section is much easier but on questionable rock. Can be easily accessed from top using trees and a 80m static rope. Route name, FA and grade unknown and temporary ones have been given

Exceptional chimney with good gear. Approach pitch is rather ordinary but you soon forget about it when starting bridging this old school style classic. Fantastic climb. Name, FA and grade unknown and temporary ones have been given. Approach from top using trees and 80m static rope.

Home to a unique splitter finger crack. There are many new routes and climbing areas in the greater Carne Creek, but due to popular demand the location of Everyman and his dog has been released.

"How DOOM hold heat then preach non-violence? Shhh, he about to start the speech, c'mon, silence..."

A unique first pitch with gymnastic steep climbing up a strange, incipient crack feature, on radical rock. One of the best at the grade!

Starts atop a rock pedestal approximately 50m left of the base of the descent slot. Bring a double rack #0.2 to #1 cams, with singles of #2, #3 and #4, and triples of #0.5, as well as a rack of small-medium wires. There are lots of options to pre-place gear to tame the runouts, but most of it is near-impossible to place on lead, so the actual FFA used significantly less gear than the above.

1. 20m (25) Up incipient crack with wild, gymnastic moves, and a fair bit of committment. Save a #0.75 for the upper crux (placed left of the big flake), and a #0.5 for a key slot immediately after it. Belay from fixed wire, #0.2 and #0.3 cams at ledge. Do not place gear behind the detached flake out right (lest you rip it off and kill yourself + your belayer).

2. 35m (21) Continue up the weakness, with surprisingly technical and committing moves. Save a #3 for right near the very top. Belay from trees back from the edge.

Courtesy note: Repeat ascensionists should bring a spirit of their choice to top up the emergency supply of liquid courage located at the base of the route.

Nice finger crack to the left of the large alcove chimney. Approx 100m right of descent slot and 100m left of Everyman and his dog looking at cliff. The sections where the crack is fused required some aid. Rap off large tree. There is a second pitch up the steep off width/chimney which has not been climbed.

The crown jewel of the area. A sustained finger crack with very little face holds. Tape the fingers up as its quite sharp.

P1. 22m 24. Blast up crack to belay at large horizontal break.

P2. 38m 18. Absorbing climbing up corner to top. Tree belay.

Hand crack just past big pillar. Hexes mark the high point. At least 2 more pitches for anyone interested.