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Bellfield Peak

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 7

Seasonality

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Summary

This major peak south of The Pinnacle looks impressive but hasn't lived up to that promise. It does have a few good pitches though.

Access issues inherited from Grampians

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

Approach

Park at the Sundial car-park and follow the walking track north down into Devil's Gap and up onto the top of Bellfield Peak (20-25 minutes). Descend the gully on the north end of the peak and bash back around to the climbs. An abseil approach down 'Rolling Thunder' is convenient to most of the climbs. One 60 metre abseil or 2 x 30 metre. Watch the rope ends, there isn't much rope to spare on these. GPS ref for the abseil is Lat 37;9;53.999 Long 142;31;5.400

For the very left end of the cliff (Skywaltz), leave the track at coordinates -37.1666604,142.5168307 at a large stone stepper. Head into the bush steeply down the gully aiming towards the lake. Slippery and sketchy. This also isn't a viable approach to the other climbs as the base of the cliff drops away at one point.

Ethic inherited from Grampians

Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.

Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.

===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===

  • Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

  • Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.

  • Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

  • Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

  • Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.

  • Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.

  • Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.

  • Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

  • Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.

  • Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.

  • Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.

For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Hardly a classic. The first corner at the left-most end of the cliff. Think this is approached from the south end, if you can be bothered.. The short corner to a ledge then the overhang above.

FA: Wayne Maher, Glenn Donohue, Andrew Webb & Graeme Smith, 1994

The hidden gem of Bellfield peak. A crazy roof climb on near perfect rock. Climb easily up to the ringbolt (or stick clip) and make a tricky dynamic move to the orange jug rail. Double up first cams in the break for the small runout. Grade 23 trad climbing will get you to the hands free slab. Find some good gear and make your way to the bolted roof. Powerful moves guard the top. Have fun. Double rack of cams will be plenty. Be smart to manage rope drag (extend almost everything). Lower off at the top.

FA: JakeSouthen, 8 Aug 2023

Initialled flake-crack 12 metres left of 'Rolling Thunder'.

  1. 34m Flake-crack through scrub to bushy ledge below overhang.

  2. 34m Crack on right to overhang at 19 metres. Proceed below this to ledge then right to corner and up.

FA: Fred Langenhorst & Bruno Zielke (alt), 1968

The second pitch, the major left-facing corner made by the left end of Beer-pot wall is one of the nicest in the Grampians. The first pitch is good but rope management is diabolical. You could just abseil down to the base of the main corner and skip the first pitch.

  1. 15m (17) Overhang then up to traverse line. Traverse right until directly below corner. Steep dirty groove to base of corner.

  2. 20m (19) Magnificent corner to terrace

  3. 30m (14) Undercut start then up to wide cracks to easy ground. A better option after the undercut start is to traverse left and climb cracks and walls just right or on the arete in a spectacular position.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Meg Sleeman, 1990

This used a tree to get started. Unfortunately the tree was killed in the 2006 bushfire and a much harder boulder-problem start would be needed to re-establish it. Start directly below the main corner. Use a small tree (no longer there) to get onto the short wall to below the steep groove. Steep, dirty groove to ledge below main corner.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Chris Baxter & Nicola Woolford, 1993

Massive easy overhang in middle of Beer-pot Wall. Some of the rock isn't all that great though. The variant finish is probably the best way to finish. Start, about 30 metres down right of 'Rolling Thunder' is initialled.

  1. 16m Steep, rotten crack. When line eases go right then left to below overhang.

  2. 16m (14) Step left and up a fault in the small overhang. Crack to roof. Hand-traverse right to and onto small ledge.

  3. 34m Overhang then crack to ledge.

  4. 25m Go 13 metres up right on scrub then diagonally right to foot of v-crack.

  5. Right for 19 metres below overhang to gully and go up.

FA: Graeme Young & Peter Cohn (alt), 1968

FFA: Bill Andrews & Allan Hope, 1984

Not great but better than the original finish though the description isn't real clear. 4a. Move up a short corner then traverse right across a wall and up. Backtrack left across ledge and up to the base of a square-cut gully which is closed by a roof. 5a 9m Up behind the bushes, out across right wall and up.

FA: Bill Andrews & Allan Hope, 1984

Pity about the finishing pitches.

Start: Start at the corner on the righthand side of Beerpot wall.

  1. 15m (-) Corner and wall to roof. Left to pea-pod.

  2. 18m (20) Up pod then traverse right to stance under stunning flake.

  3. 17m (20) 'Flake'. Belay on right.

  4. 20m (-) Out right then pull over small roof. Up corner to another roof, left to arete.

  5. 20m (-) Up and right.

  6. 40m (-) Walk left to blocks, pull over steepening and finish up gully.

FA: James McItosh & Jeremy Boreham, 1995

Starts from near the left end of the terrace right of and above Beer Pot Wall.

  1. 25m (13) Up to the small overhang. Step right and up delicate slab, moving back into the line and so to a small ledge.

  2. 25m Step left and up to the roof.Pull over the weakness and follow the corner to the second roof, surmount this and follow the line to the right around a huge overhang. Up to a traverse line on the left below another overhang. Move 5 metres left to stance.

  3. 30m Traverse 5 metres left and diagonally to overhang. Pull over slight weakness and climb crack above to large, bushy ledge. Up gully on the right.

FA: Peter Watling, Peter Jacob (alt) & Kathy Burman, 1974

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Steve Toal

Date: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 1 of the Central Grampians guide covers the North and East regions and features over 1400 routes spread over 124 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Author(s): Steve Toal

Date: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 2 of the Central Grampians guide covers the West and South regions and features over 970 routes spread over 55 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Author(s): Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780646955544

"Australia's premier bouldering destination! The new 2016 Edition Grampians Boulder guide authored by Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons. It contains more than 1300 problems which is double the original guide. Heaps of new information on established areas as well as the inclusion of plenty of boulders and crags not published before. It also features update idiot proof layout and expanded history and culture notes. Get one and start cranking!"

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