Ascents in Central Grampians by Andrew Connolly

Done by accident because Chris can't follow directions.

Pretty cool but disagree with the description. It's actually really well protected (gear close to and backing up the pin, and then big cams before and during the rooflet). It's also nowhere near 18 (we did The Last Rites just before it which was grades harder).

Original grade of 16 (no "R") was probably about right.

Geez, this thing covers some impressive terrain at the grade. Not recommended as your first 14 or 15 though. Stratospherically more difficult than an equivalent route at Arapiles (like Lamplighter).

As with the The Last Rites (done immediately prior), pitch lengths are rubbish. Top of the pinnacle is 48m not 60m, and pitches 3, 4 & 5 combined are also 50m, not 62m.

With a 70m rope, some long slings, judicious gear placements (don't put anything near the chains at the end of p1) and the benefit of hindsight, I would combine pitches 1, 2 & 3, then pitches 4 & 5. We put pitch 3 in with 4 & 5 instead because I selfishly wanted to hang out on the top of the pinnacle.

We also finished up Debutante Direct Finish which is also pretty cool, although definitely much harder than the rest.

Party of 3, 4 hours bottom to top and back down again.

Really offers an awful lot of variety. The two closed, fused corners (on pitches 2 & 3) test the brain, and the overhung corner crack on perfect rock on pitch 4 is as good as it gets. Was smiling to myself as hold after perfect hold appeared before me ... it just kept going !

Pitch lengths both here and Sublime Climbs are rubbish though. I combined pitches 1 & 2, which was about 40m total, and 3 & 4, which was about 58m - so I am guessing they are more like 22m, 18m, 18m, 40m.

You could probably combine pitches 1, 2 & 3 with a 60m rope (bit of stretch) and easily with a 70m rope but you might run out of gear (like I did).

Party of three, 4.5 hours bottom to top and back again.